primary vs secondary tensioner replacement
#1
primary vs secondary tensioner replacement
If you can only change the secondary tensioners on a 1999 Jag XJ8 engine, are these the more frequent cause for timing chain failure (or are the primary tensioners more of a cause) So is it worth it to only change the secondary with the metal alloy type?
#2
Generally, yes, the secondary tensioners are the more frequent failures. It is a good plan to at least change these out, if original, regardless of the mileage. However, on early MY AJV8s (97 to 2001 approximately), prior to the Morse multi-row primary chainsets, there have been some excessive chain guide wear issues. It is a much more expensive job, but if it were my personal car I'd do both primary and secondary if the mileage is high.
BTW - Consider moving over to the XJ8 (1998 to 2003) board. This board is for the X350 and no one here will relate very well to your question. There, you'll be flooded with responses.
BTW - Consider moving over to the XJ8 (1998 to 2003) board. This board is for the X350 and no one here will relate very well to your question. There, you'll be flooded with responses.
#3
#5
Tensioner changed but it still sound like this!
I had upper tensioners changed and I still have this same sound as I did 8,000 miles ago before the tensioners were replaced with new steel ones at 34,500 miles. Is this still a timing chain sound that is heard and we need lower tensioners changed or could this some thing else like a VVT that takes a second to get oil.
Video & sound link of the uper right side by the VVT
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RLWGZVF4OrM
or
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RLWGZVF4OrM
Video & sound link of the uper right side by the VVT
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RLWGZVF4OrM
or
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RLWGZVF4OrM
#6
#7
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#8
When my tensioners started to go they made a noise
like a tin can half full of rocks tied to the fan.
When the covers were removed you could see the plastic
tensioners disintegrating.
I replaced the whole shebang, chains and all the tensioners
and now I am bullet proof. Caught it just in time.
I reccomend replacing primarys and secondarys, and do it
now regardless of miles. One theory is it is not the miles,
but the heat and oil that causes the plastic to fail.
Very cheap fix, as opposed to replaceing the engine!
like a tin can half full of rocks tied to the fan.
When the covers were removed you could see the plastic
tensioners disintegrating.
I replaced the whole shebang, chains and all the tensioners
and now I am bullet proof. Caught it just in time.
I reccomend replacing primarys and secondarys, and do it
now regardless of miles. One theory is it is not the miles,
but the heat and oil that causes the plastic to fail.
Very cheap fix, as opposed to replaceing the engine!
#9
#10
Generally speaking, you can get away with just replacing the top tensioners with the metal-bodied items, as the plastic ones fail and wreck engines with only a few seconds notice to the poor old owner. The main chain tensioners do fail, but not so early, and do not appear to have the "instant engine wreck" effect of the uppers. Clearly if you can afford it, and are going to keep the car, doing all the tensioners is better but there is much more dismantling work to do, hence it costs a lot more. Other thing that fails early is the chain slipper(s) on the main chain, but again, not an instant engine wrecker.
#12
I had an indy mechanic here in Honolulu do the work and purchase the parts for me.
Replaced both chains, all guides, slippers, tensioners, a pully, and new spark plugs. Total cost was $1600 parts and labor.
Watching different forums, this falls right in the middle of the price range for this work.
Replaced both chains, all guides, slippers, tensioners, a pully, and new spark plugs. Total cost was $1600 parts and labor.
Watching different forums, this falls right in the middle of the price range for this work.
Last edited by JerryG; 04-07-2010 at 01:45 AM.
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