I recently had my left and right camshaft with actuators because of a ticking noised that occurred after changing the headgasket. I was told by the mechanic that the vvt solenoid were causing the ticking so I changed them. Now, the ticking is still there but I noticed that when I disconnect the right vvt solenoid the ticking goes away. So, I switched the two solenoid but this did not help. The ticking is still there when I connect the right solenoid and disappears when I disconnect it. I am currently getting codes P1384, P1642 and P0358.

Click on the link below to see and hear ticking.

Thanks,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5eEV...ature=youtu.be

 

Common problem. Add a can of RESTORE to the oil. If the ticking goes away upgrade the oil to a higher weight at the next change. Easy and cheap, the $10 Restore is not going to hurt anything and will clearly show the problem.

 

What weight would you recommend? I used 5w 30. A friend recommended 20w 50. Would you use that weight? Thanks.

 

First try the 5w40. If the ticking comes back there just add another can of Restore before going any higher in weight. Needing 20w50 is a clear sigh of a very worn engine.

 

I changed the oil this weekend. No change to the ticking sound. So malfunction to the camshaft position actuator?

The link is working correctly now. Thanks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5eEV...ature=youtu.be

 

Blackhonour...when you say the VVT unit is ticking, is this a constant rythmical type of ticking, or does it only do it every few minutes?
If you listen to your engine at idle a correctly operating VVT unit will emit a 'clack' sound once every few minutes being energised by the solenoid to allow oil into the VVT galleries to lubricate it and then will shut off....if this is the case, that is completely normal.
But....if it's a constant rythmical ticking, the units may have to be replaced as
you have found the ticking stops when the solenoids are disconnected.
Have you actually replaced both solenoid units?
These engines are designed to normally run on 5W40 and using thicker oils especially 20W50 just exacerbates the problems as these are a 'close tollarence' engine and using thicker oils like older designs is not good for engine wear on cold start up.

 

Click on the video and forward to 1:29 you will here the sound I am referring too. The ticking I am referring too is only there when I press the accelerator but when I am on the highway with no need to accelerate it goes away. I have replaced both vvt solenoids and have verified that they work. Yes, the ticking does stop when the right side is disconnected.

Now, I am being told by the mechanic that it maybe the oil pressure That is causing the vvt solenoid to tick. He says that it is not the camshaft position actuator. I think it is. Could it be?

Thanks,

 

I cannot see how the sensor could cause ticking without it giving intermittent errors, which would almost certainly code the OBD.

 

That to me is a completely normal behavior.
Understanfding hwo the VVT's work and their interaction with power requirements goes a long way to removing confusion.
As I stated before, with engine just sitting idling, you will get a click very few minutes.
When you start blipping the throttle (as you Americans are so fond of doing) the VVT will immediately react with a click to advance the inlet cam position.
On AJ26 engines they have only two positions...full retard or advanced.
On AJ27 engines, the design was changed to have a more linear advance in line with power demands.
When you are just cruising at a steady speed, the VVT will be stationary and won;t call for advance untill you mash the throttle.

 

It does have code P1384.

 

Ohhh..., Sorry I missed that!

Ok, after listening I have a serious concern- You have checked your chain tensioners, right? That diagnosis is does not match the symptoms exactly, but the sound is scary! I would not call it "ticking", but rather "hollering"

I think something is loose in your A-side (passanger) cam mechanism and if it is the tensoners, a few more throttle blips will toast the motor but good!

If you really think the problem is the electrical activation of the VVT solenoid circuit (I do not, but what do I know?), then the way to troubleshoot that would be to scope the cam position sensor timing relative to the crank position and watch the phase difference change between the signals as you pulsed the solenoid.

According to the manual, when you have code 1384, the ECM should be Not Supplying Pulses to the VVT solenoid, (thereby retarding the cam), which should be the same as removing the wire, so that does not add up completely.

Good luck and keep us posted.

 

After having another couple of listens to this noise....it's more of a 'ratcheting'
sound which is definately not normal.
As Ross sugghested, I would be whipping the cam covers of to check out the condition and type of tensioners in their.
If that all checks out OK, you need to use a stethoscope (or long screwdriver in the ear) to isolate the sound when some one blips and also holds the engine at about 1500 rpm....then at 2000rpm.
If the noise continues, it's time to look seriously at the VVT's.

 

Could this be one of the problems also?

 

It sure looks like it has jumped time BUT that assumes the VVT is in the returned or non advanced position. The shown relationship COULD be the advanced timing position, if I am not mistaken.

 

I go with Ross....the VVT looks like it's stuck on advance position.
They the old style plastic tensioners which should be replaced PRONTO!
Actually look in surprisingly good condition....how many mile son this engine?

 

Thanks for the information guys. At this point I just have to have the mechanic that did the work on my car take another look at it to make it set things up correctly. Which to me and based on what you guys are saying, he did not. Thanks again. The car has 93500 miles. I will have him replace the tensioners as well.

Take a look at my new video. Are is the tensioner on the passenger side correct and should there be that much play in the chain.

Thank

Sam

 

Hey Sam....not really important which way the chain goes but hey, if it was me,
I would be fitting new chains as well as tensioners at 93K.
As for that teensy little bit of slack...pretty much normal, as you would
find that the tensioner would 'pump up'....this is probably a sign that the tensioner
is leaking through a small crack in the plastic body...you will see when they are taken off.

 

Hi Sam,

Did you follow up on this matter, any results or conclusions?

I ask as I have the exact same noise (also right bank), which I try to locate for quite a bit of time already.

Eric

 

I am still working on it. Once I took the engine apart again, I noticed that the timing chain was a little loose. So I am replacing the timing chain and cam adjuster bracket to make sure the oil flow is not restricted to the VVT actuator. I will be doing this this week. Will let you know if this fixes it.

Sam

 

Hey sam....I really can't see why this would be the problem....I think you're starting to clutch at straws ;o]