Convincor, thanks. Message me a price for those parts.

 

You buy the car?
Is this the one in Boone?

 

I told the seller I would start calculating the cost of the parts needed to make the car right. This includes a new battery, valve cover gaskets, transmission service supplies, door handle cable etc. I asked him if he'd entertain an offer less than his asking price that takes into account the parts I would have to buy. I told him that since I would do the labor myself, the overall costs of these repairs would be lower than average.

He said he would be willing to consider a price adjustment based on the parts I would need. The plan is to meet him on Wednesday (my next day off work) to arrive at a price, followed by me purchasing the car (barring any unforeseen problems). He is out of town until then so it works out well.

The unknowns that still bother me are:

1) I have not seen the car in daylight. Under my most intense flashlight inspection the paint looked great, but the sun can be far more unforgiving than my flashlight. It looks great in the pictures, but the camera is also very forgiving.
2) Unable to inspect the coolant last time, so if there is oil in there that could be a deal breaker. I don't know how concerned I should be about a bad headgasket. Is it a big problem on a 2003 XJR?
3) Don't know if there are any gross leaks underneath the car. It was dark and rainy so it was not practical to see if the transmission is weeping or if there are oil or differential leaks. I just don't know.

If I felt good about those things I would call and make an offer right now over the phone.

I have already started ordering things for the car, but of course they could be used on another XJR if I end up not getting this one. I have already received the supercharger oil change kit, electrical sleeve for the transmission and new Mann fuel filter. I have ordered the cap lock and pin and dipstick. I was considering the ECS Tuning transmission kit that includes the Febi fluid, but I haven't done any fluid research yet so I'm apprehensive. Someone on here was highly recommending Redline fluid for the transmission. I just haven't researched enough yet to make a decision.

 

Valvoline Maxlife is a good fluid for that transmission, readily available, and relatively cheap.

I have the same transmission in three cars; the xjr, C230 Kompressor, and E320.

I use maxlife in all three. Works great.

 

I went to see the black XJR again today, in the sunlight. I also took it for a bit more involved test drive down some winding mountain roads and on a couple of short straightaways. It's certainly not perfect, and it will probably spend a couple of weeks in my garage before I start driving it regularly; but I have decided to adopt it!

The seller is out of town, so his son met me for the test drive. I called the seller afterwards and made him an offer. He hesitated, but said "it sounds like it is going to a home where it will be well taken care of, so OK".

He is meeting me on my next day off (Wednesday) to complete the transaction. I will be bringing her home Wednesday night! Once she makes the 90 miles to my house, she will get thoroughly fixed up.

I am now enthusiastically ordering parts, so any recommendations are welcome. I am leaning towards Akebono pads with Brembo rotors for the brakes. Do you think if I painted the calipers red it would be lame? haha. I think with the silver wheels and black car it would look cool.

I need to order transmission fluid, too. I am a fan of Valvoline, but really like the idea of the "kit" from ECS tuning (I bought my BMW wheels from them). My only hesitation is that I haven't heard any opinions on the Febi fluid.

Is the Victor Reinz VS50397 Valve Cover Gasket Set a good product?

Ok, enough for now. I am very excited.

 

eurotoys also has a kit- Jaguar XJR/XKR Transmission Service Kit (5-speed Auto), Eurotoys,Ltd.

I went this route being I've got 2 cars to do-
12 Liters Pack OE Spec ATF Automatic Transmission Oil Fluid for Mercedes 1955 02 | eBay

Mercedes Benz Transmission Filter Gasket 722 6xx Model Genuine OE 1400095 | eBay

and a dipstick- http://www.ebay.com/itm/351470464396...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

ECS has great price on filter kit though..

 

Convincor, The 12 liters pack on Ebay is Meyle brand, right? Don B did a little analysis in another thread about how the backwards compatible fluids are thinner than the original, but I don't remember if Meyle was part of the analysis. He was adamant that the Redline was the superior choice, despite the fact it's not Mercedes approved. I can get the Redline D4 from a local supplier at a very reasonable price, but if the Meyle is compatible in viscosity to the original that's a great price for 12 liters! I am falling into the trap of over-thinking this transmission fluid decision. It seems a common trap in other threads too. I need to make a decision though, I'd like to get it ordered ASAP since I'll have the car on Wednesday.

Jim, I see you recommend a new water pump. That's the first thing I did to the 2001 when I bought it, do you think it's as necessary with the 2003? I was under the impression it was a much improved water pump. Does the brand matter with regard to the thermostat? Is a Murray or a Stant as good as anything else?

I have already ordered about $800 worth of parts/supplies for when I get the car. I will have UPS at my door a lot for the next week or so; very exciting!

 

Yes it's Meyle with the 236.10 spec which from what I read is what was originally put in these gearboxes.
The 236.12 and 236.14 spec are what there saying is the newer "better" fluid.
With that said, I'm fine with what Jag put in there as there "Fill for Life" fluid which they say was good for 150k.

 

You are right! It does say 235.10, I didn't even notice that. And you've been using it in your cars with good results?

 

First change so...
Just tired of reading all the opinions..

 

At our shop we have had multiple problems with Victor Reinz valve cover gaskets. We don't even get them anymore. The Eurospares or Üro are much better. Just make sure you get 28 rubber bolt seal washers. That's the key to a long lasting valve cover gasket set from leaking. Well those along with 8 spark plug tube gaskets and 4 bolt grommets that go between the spark plug tubes.

We've also had good luck with Stant thermostats. The metal impeller water pumps are the only ones I would ever use. I believe we get those from Coventry west. In my opinion anything other than metal impeller is junk.

 

Well, I already ordered the Victor Reinz valve cover gasket set, but it DOES include all the components you listed. Perhaps I will be lucky and it will seal fine. If not, I'll just re-do the job with a different gasket set.

I ordered the AC Delco water pump for my 2001 XJ8 about a year ago because it had the metal impeller and the metal gasket. It has worked fine but at least one member has bashed the AC Delco unit for being of low quality. Since it has been good on my XJ8 I am considering ordering one for the new XJR.

I think I am just going to order the 12 liter Meyle package Convincor recommended off of Ebay. I could go back and forth like a madman deciding on a fluid, but I plan to change it every 30,000 miles or so. With that frequency, hopefully any quality fluid will be fine.

 

Is the genuine Jaguar water pump worth twice as much money as the AC Delco? They both come with the metal gaskets. I am not cheap, I just want to know which is the better pump.

Thanks

 

I used the Gates for mine. Metal gasket & impeller

 

Like you, I have had excellent results with the AC Delco water pump; the Airtex lasted less than a year and leaked constantly.

 

Here is a partial list of what is currently in shipment to my house:

1) Brembo front and rear rotors
2) Akebono pads for front and rear
3) 12 liters of Meyle ATF
3) Gasket, filter and electrical sleeve kit for transmisson
4) Dipstick for 722.6 transmission
5) Two GM Supercharger Oil OEM w/ Syringe
6) Continental accessory belt
7) Continental supercharger belt
8) Mann fuel filter, Mann oil filter and Mann air filter
9) Gates water pump with metal impeller and metal gasket
10) Oil pan gasket (going to drop and clean the pan)
11) Oil pan fill bolt
12) Complete valve cover gasket kit
13) Two quarts of Redline 75w90 gear oil for the differential
14) Transmission Filler Cap & Lock Clip
15) Door handle cable/latch, sunroof module and running light lens (Thanks to Convincor).

That should be enough to keep me busy, especially since I'll be working 50 hours a week also!

Of course I also plan to pick up coolant, brake fluid, motor oil, thermostat, coolant temp sensor etc. at my local Oreilly's Auto Parts store.

 

Today is the day! I am embarrassed to admit I dreamed about this last night.

We are meeting the seller around 2pm to complete the transaction. Then I drive her 90 miles back to a loving garage where she will receive a great deal of attention. Prayers for a smooth day would be much appreciated.

On the way home I plan to stop at my local Oreilly's Auto Parts to have the battery load tested. The seller put a full charge on the current battery and says all seems fine now. I have a new battery in my budget though so if it needs one I want to go ahead and buy it. Choices:
1) Glass Mat AGM construction battery for $174.99
2) What I presume is a standard type of battery for $145.99

I don't car about the price, I want to get the best one for my car. But, I have no idea what the advantage would be of one over the other. Advice would be appreciated.

Thanks!

 

I went with an Optima (AGM) when I did the Cobra build.The first one wouldn't hold a charge.
That being said, now it's either MotorCraft or Interstate. (Lead acid)
One of the trucks I bought came with Duralast batteries which are from AutoZone. Swapped them with the MotorCraft which I already had and were new. Put each on a scale while they were out and the MotorCraft was 6lbs heavier. Someones cutting cost somewhere.. Just my $.02

 

So, the big question...

Standard lead/acid battery or AGM battery, and why?

Car will be driving approximately 60 miles per day/ 5 days per week.

Edit: Ok, so apparently the AGM batteries suffer from overcharging in cars designed for standard lead/acid batteries. It would probably be fine in a car that sits a lot and is rarely driven great distances, but my car will be a daily driver, at least for a while. I guess the car would need a different alternator in order to safely use an AGM battery? I don't know.

 

I just don't see any gain from a AGM.
Lead acid has been around forever.