It will be several days before my EGR and Throttle Body gaskets arrive, and then possibly a day or two before I have time enough to replace them. I have other cars, but I want to drive this one!

Is there any risk in driving the car with +15-20 LTFT at idle and +3-10 LTFT at cruise?

 

I decided to do another drain and fill on the transmission today, since I only got about 3.5 liters out when I changed the filter and gasket.

This time I only got about 2.6 liters out, but that's with the car draining at a front end up angle rather than perfectly level like last time. That's fine, I will continue to do partial drain and fills over time until the fluid looks brand new. I did that over the course of about 8 months with a Volvo I used to drive and eventually the fluid looked brand new whenever I drained some out.

So I put 2.6 liters back in and started doing my level test like last time. This time however, the transmission would NOT get up to 80 degrees Celsius. I tried for over an hour but the highest it ever peaked was 74.9 (according to my infrared thermometer). At that temperature it was barely touching the bottom of the 80 degree section on the dipstick.

I figured the fluid temperature was probably a few degrees warmer than the reading from the outside of the pan, so I added a few ounces to get it over the lower 80 degree mark and called it quits. It drove and shifted great when I tested it, but I am perplexed as to why it got up to 80 degrees last time and would NOT do it this time. It would often cool back down to 70 degrees while it was running. It was very frustrating.

 

Hello.

I guess this has gone from being "will I pull the trigger on an XJR?" to somewhat of a blog on the transformation of said XJR after the purchase. Although I thoroughly enjoy detailing my amateur mechanical exploits, I guess that's not really the purpose of this forum.

I will summarize my current project and then I suppose as far as this thread is concerned, I'll sign off. If there is actually anyone out there who wants to continue reading about my endeavors to bring this XJR back to amazing condition, by all means let me know; I'll continue to post from time to time.

Currently I have the throttle body and EGR valve removed to address a vacuum leak. I am awaiting todays mail so that I'll have my gaskets and can put it all back together. The two screws that hold the EGR connection to the throttle body adapter (where it was leaking) were VERY loose. In fact, if I had only tightened those it may have eliminated the vacuum leak and not required disassembly. I am glad I did take it apart however because I got a chance to thoroughly clean it all. The port in the throttle body adapter where the EGR valve connects was the only place with heavy buildup. It took a long time to clean all the buildup that was partially occluding that air passage way.

I have new front upper shock mounts on the way, as well as new sway bar links; looking forward to installing those and seeing what effect, if any, it has on the ride.

Thanks to all of you who have helped me out, especially you Convincor.

God bless!

 

I know exactly what you mean..


How about a couple fresh pictures to close it off?

 

While I have a to-do list still going, it is mostly cosmetic and minor mechanical stuff. The odyssey has been a blast and now I am a daily driver of a 2003 Jaguar XJR. Life could be worse....

Thanks again to all for the advice and support. I will be seeing you around the forum!

Anther piece of good news by the way... The very first person that came to look at my 01 XJ8 asked what all I had done to the car since I owned it. Thirty minutes later when I finished explaining my upgrades and maintenance, he said "I'll take it". He didn't even ask me to lower my price. I am meeting him at his bank in 30 minutes...

 

Nice going harvest 14. Now it's my turn to ****** that elusive XJR I have always wanted.

 

Harvest14 please keep posting. More pictures the better, I'm about to close a deal on this Jag. And would love to follow the fixes you did on yours.

 

Hey, good luck with your pending purchase maniqz.

I have done a lot since I last posted in this thread, but I just happen to be in the middle of a small investigation/repair right now that I'll happily share a few details about.

Despite adding two new upstream oxygen sensors and repairing a nasty EGR valve leak, I am still getting high positive fuel trims at idle and while coasting. I have ordered a new OEM Jaguar coolant temperature sensor because I have my doubts about the accuracy of the one on the car (entire additional post needed to explain) and because it's a critical sensor.

I did a more thorough round of smoke testing tonight, actually wrapping my air filter in cellophane to cause a bit more pressure for leak detection. I had a very large amount of smoke coming out in the vicinity of the passenger side (RHS) valve cover. Using an inspection camera I ruled out the edges of the cover itself. I removed the coils and insured that the spark plug seals were not leaking; they were not. I strongly suspected the connection between the MAF and the intake going to the throttle body. I took it apart, cleaned the seal thoroughly and re-assembled; leak was the same. It was VERY hard to see where the smoke was coming from. Finally, I wrapped a shop towel around the connection between the full load breather hose and the intake going to the Throttle body, suddenly the smoke flow was interrupted. It was pushing out the bottom of that connection and blowing an impressive amount of smoke down towards the valve cover. I tried and tried cleaning the 0-ring, but I could not get a satisfactory seal. I will order a new full load breather hose tonight, they are not terribly expensive.

I wish I knew a way to temporarily eliminate the leak until the new hose gets here.

By the way, last night I replaced the front anti-sway bar bushings. It was really quite easy to do. A few days ago I replaced both upper shock mounts and both anti-sway bar links.

 

I installed the new coolant temperature sensor today, took all of 5 minutes. After a hard reset my 10 mile test drive showed positive fuel trims reduced by about 40%, so initially it looks good. Obviously it will take more drive time to truly see a difference.

I decided to tackle the rear door locks tonight. I successfully removed the door card on the rear drivers-side door (RHS). The actuator would NOT lock, it was jammed. I pried up the small protective boot and sprayed lubricant down into the mechanism. Voila, not it can be manually locked and unlocked! But, no such luck with the FOB or lock buttons in the car. You can hear, and feel, the movement inside the actuator, but the mechanical portion does not move. Apparently it's broken or disconnected inside. I guess I have to source two rear door actuators. Anybody got a parts car I can purchase from?

I went to the heritage site, where I generally get all my part numbers. I cannot find the actuator motor for the rear on there so I'm having trouble searching for the replacement unit.

 

Sure. PM me.

 

0202090102

As best as I can tell with my telescoping inspection camera, that is the serial number off of my engine. Does that number make sense?

 

I would really like to replace my control arms as one unit, with new bushings and ball joints already installed. I simply can't afford OEM Jaguar CA for close to $400 a piece. I found a pair on Ebay that I can actually afford. If they will last 30,000 miles that's good enough (two years with my driving). Does anyone have any feedback or advice regarding these?

Jaguar Vanden XJ8 XJR Front Lower Control Arm Ball Joint JLM21302 JLM21303 | eBay

 

Jeff...where'd you saw the engine no? I am still searching on mine. I need to know if I still have the plastic tensioner...I believe you engine no. says that it was assembled February 2, 2002, hence the metal tensioner. Cutoff date is August 13 '01. I'm curious on mine because the body date of my car is August 2001.

 

I had the rear of the car off the ground last night to replace the anti-sway bar bushings (took all of 20 minutes). While I had some ground clearance, I slid under the driver side (LHS) just behind the front tire and snaked the inspection camera just above where the steering column attaches to the rack. I think I could have actually seen the number without the camera once I knew where it was, but it was much easier to read using the lighted camera.

My car manufacture date is March of 2002, so a Feb 02 engine date could make sense. When I replaced the door handle assembly (thanks Convincor for the parts) I noticed the date on the old door handle was November 2002. I have seen various components throughout the car dated throughout the entire year of 2002, even thought the car was supposedly assembled in March of 02. I am guessing maybe since it is a 2003 model they assembled the frame in March and the rest of the car came together throughout the year?? I don't know. I guess it doesn't matter really. I have SEEN the timing gear and it's beautiful, so beyond that I the dates are irrelevant, haha.

If you do have to replace the timing gear it should be a little easier than when I did it on my XJ8, since you won't have the VVT to worry about. Still though, it's a job to be taken seriously; not for the meek.

 

Hey Jeff, perhaps you can help me here. I broke a hose while trying to replace my valve cover gasket, I don't even know what it is or where is it even connected at the other end. Can I just wrap this up while I drive to get a part from Jag dealer?

 

Part load breather tube. Wrap it up but get new.
Jag part # aj84879

 

Thanks Convincor, where is the other connected to? Is it hard to replace?

 

Maniqz, I did the SAME thing when I bought the XJ8 last year. I ordered the part online, I think it was between $30 and $35 dollars.

I had to snake it under the manifold on the XJ8, but you have an XJR if I'm not mistaken, which means it must go underneath the supercharger. I tied a string to the old one and pulled it out as it pulled the string underneath, then I loosened the string and tied it to the new one and pulled it through and into position. It was not as easy as it sounds, but it worked.

I am out in the garage replacing both fuel pumps. I just got the tank back in the car and am hooking everything back up. Major prayer time! haha. I really hope I did everything right.

 

The other end connects to the throttle body.
Would have to look and see how it's routed. Don't recall..

 

Jeff, I take it the link lead was OK?