I have the R1 Milan alloy wheels. On trying to remove one wheel on the rear, it is stuck tight on the hub. The tire is off the ground. I tried using my weight to pull it forward, then left and right. Also unlocked my emergency brakes. No luck. This rear wheel will only rotate about 8 inch in either direction whereas when taking off the front wheel yesterday, it can rotate the whole circumference. Tomorrow, I'm thinking of getting a plastic hammer to hit it from the tire's back and\or spray anti-seize on the contact points as a last try. My tire shop was able to take the wheel off last month. Any other ideas that would work?

 

Heavy-ish rubber mallet on the inner edge, couple of whacks in one spot then move around the circumference a couple of hundred mm, couple more whacks, move again, couple more, etc etc around the rim til it pops off. I don't think I've ever had a stuck rim not come off this way. Don't bash it too hard at first or you might **** it (it also might jump off and try to run across the workshop unexpectedly, or so I'm told 🤣 )... I start light and get a little harder each time. Some penetrating oil or WD40 sprayed on now and allowed to soak in til tomorrow might help, it can't really hurt provided you clean it up well so as not to contaminate your brake pads.

Do you mean you tried to rotate the wheel and it only went 1/8th of a full rotation? You said e-brake was off, but was the gearbox in neutral?

 

Whenever this has happened to me, I've used a 10lb sledge on the tire, hit it on the shoulder of the inner side so I'm kept well away from the rim. To be fair though, I haven't had to do it on the Jag...sounds like your shop may have over tightened the lugs, I think they're supposed to be around 75-80 ft-lb.

 

The rear wheel is only 1/8 of a full rotation while on the hub even after I have removed all the 5 lug nuts and the car is in Park with the emergency brake handle off\down. n.. I had no issue spinning the front wheel for many full rotations. I don't think i need to put the gear in Neutral to take off the rear wheel but I will check the owner's manual agai

 

The front wheel should spin freely, its not connected to the transmission or anything else that would keep it from spinning. The rear wheel is connected to the transmission, which you've left in park, so I wouldn't expect it to spin freely. Put the car in neutral and spin it while you bop it your method of choice to get the wheel off.

 

You don't need to put it in neutral to remove the wheel, but the driveshaft won't spin fully in park. Park stops the gearbox from spinning, that's why your car won't roll away.

 

Soak the hub with PT Blaster overnight and us a BFH on the inside of the tire, then the outside, then 90* then another 90*,swear some more and keep hitting it until the rust and corrosion let go. Had the same problem with my 2001 when I bought it in 2013, car had been driven in snow in Ohio and wheels were rusted on. Used anti-seize on the hub and backing plate when I reinstalled the tires. In the UK they use some kind of copper grease as anti-seize, here it is silver colored (Pentex). Once you get the wheel off it will be obvious where a light coat of grease will be useful.

 

If you can pry the centre cap out to get WD40 or something in there that helps, it's the number one seize point. Your wheel shop used the duga duga gun, not a torque wrench, that's a red card for me. (100-120Nm)
Failing all of the above advice all the rims back on and roll the car at 5mph with loosened lug nuts and hit the brakes will free it off.

 

Hi Everyone. I got the wheel off tonight using WD-40 generously around the contact points with the hub and then moderately pounding it with a purchased rubber hammer from the back of the tire. About 10 pounding all around and then seeing it tilt slightly makes me go for the last round of pounding. The wheel came off when I least expected by pulling with my hands. Thanks everyone. I need to take this wheel and tire set to the tire shop tomorrow to see why it is leaking 1psi per day. I saw no nails so it might be a cavity on this wheel(in addition to another wheel with similar issue). Eventually in about a year, I might replace all 4 Milan wheels with a one piece wheels if I don't want to recondition these wheels after getting more use out of this car and will ask about it then.

 

Good stuff 👍 "If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer!"

Check to make sure there isn't any deformation to the wheel or hub where they meet each other.. if not just give it a wipe and make sure there's nothing stuck in there. Enjoy!

 

In order to fix the 1 psi leaking per day, the tire shop had to put in some more adhesive to seal where the wheel parts contacts the tire. This is the second tire that had the same type of leakage. So far, the adhesive seems to have fix the leakage after checking the psi every 7 days for two weeks and I did not measure any leak. Hopefully this fix holds up in the months to come.