Rear-area noise when making sharp/u-turns
#1
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I'm currently in DC on a road trip South Florida - DC- State College PA - Long Island, NY - Lexington KY (possibly) - Florida. I've noticed that when I make a very sharp turn such as a U, I detect a slight noise coming from the rear audible at low speeds. It sounds vaguely like a harmonic groan that my old Audi's power steering made when pushed to the max. But of course, unlike the power steering groan, it comes from the rear.
No other powertrain noises/weirdness have shown themselves during the 1000 miles of the trip so far. All is OK.
1) I am assuming that this is the rear differential.
2) I understand that Jag differentials can be noisy.
3) Consequently, this may not be a problem?
4) A pre-purchase inspection noted minor "seepage sweat" - might be worth it to have the blower cleaned out soon (would likely get that done in New York).
No other powertrain noises/weirdness have shown themselves during the 1000 miles of the trip so far. All is OK.
1) I am assuming that this is the rear differential.
2) I understand that Jag differentials can be noisy.
3) Consequently, this may not be a problem?
4) A pre-purchase inspection noted minor "seepage sweat" - might be worth it to have the blower cleaned out soon (would likely get that done in New York).
#2
#3
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It could be a differential side bearing. However, the information given could also be a rear wheel bearing. I know that typically being in the United States, one would assume that you'd only be making a left U turn given the fact we drive on the right hand side of the road. You can go to a large empty parking lot and recreate the U turn going right instead under the same circumstances as before. What you're listening for is the changes. Pitch in noise, volume of noise or is there any noise... That would be a big help. Of course, having the car on a lift with the traction control off, engine running and in gear may also pinpoint it also.
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Amelorn (02-27-2016)
The following users liked this post:
Amelorn (02-27-2016)
#5
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If you are getting service in NY, have the technician grease the universal joints coming out of the differential. With the brake off, in neutral, on a lift, he can also listen for bearing noises.
Best guess: dry u-joints; second, rear shock mounts; third, dry exhaust hangers at rear.
Best guess: dry u-joints; second, rear shock mounts; third, dry exhaust hangers at rear.
#6
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Update:
I took the car to Rosenthal Jaguar-LR Chantilly, VA. The differential was cleared - the noise I heard was a valve releasing pressure from power steering and was normal.
During their general inspection, they noted that my front shock bushings are failing, so I ordered a new set of Bilstein front shocks from partsgeek.com for $212 shipping included. The dealer was very good, but I am not paying $1300 parts + labor for a relatively cheap part set and easy job. I ordered the parts to my FL address, and I'll cut my trip short after PA and then head straight for Florida.
I took the car to Rosenthal Jaguar-LR Chantilly, VA. The differential was cleared - the noise I heard was a valve releasing pressure from power steering and was normal.
During their general inspection, they noted that my front shock bushings are failing, so I ordered a new set of Bilstein front shocks from partsgeek.com for $212 shipping included. The dealer was very good, but I am not paying $1300 parts + labor for a relatively cheap part set and easy job. I ordered the parts to my FL address, and I'll cut my trip short after PA and then head straight for Florida.
#7
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Normally, the shock bushings that go bad are the uppers. These do not come with the new shocks. There are instructions on how to rebuild the upper mounts; a better answer is now available online from either Parts Geek or Rock Auto. Both are now selling new mounts; before, the OEMs were about $300 apiece.
I think the Meyle brand from Parts Geek are better, but cost more ($76 + S&H). Lots of threads on this forum; relatively simple repair now.
If the the uppers look like they are turning to powder, they need to be replaced. New Bilsteins come with new lower bushings, as you noted.
Bought my first two Jags and first LR (a Freelander - ouch) from Rosenthal.
I think the Meyle brand from Parts Geek are better, but cost more ($76 + S&H). Lots of threads on this forum; relatively simple repair now.
If the the uppers look like they are turning to powder, they need to be replaced. New Bilsteins come with new lower bushings, as you noted.
Bought my first two Jags and first LR (a Freelander - ouch) from Rosenthal.
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#8
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Normally, the shock bushings that go bad are the uppers. These do not come with the new shocks. There are instructions on how to rebuild the upper mounts; a better answer is now available online from either Parts Geek or Rock Auto. Both are now selling new mounts; before, the OEMs were about $300 apiece.
I think the Meyle brand from Parts Geek are better, but cost more ($76 + S&H). Lots of threads on this forum; relatively simple repair now.
If the the uppers look like they are turning to powder, they need to be replaced. New Bilsteins come with new lower bushings, as you noted.
Bought my first two Jags and first LR (a Freelander - ouch) from Rosenthal.
I think the Meyle brand from Parts Geek are better, but cost more ($76 + S&H). Lots of threads on this forum; relatively simple repair now.
If the the uppers look like they are turning to powder, they need to be replaced. New Bilsteins come with new lower bushings, as you noted.
Bought my first two Jags and first LR (a Freelander - ouch) from Rosenthal.
I've also (once again) changed my mind. I'll press on to New York and have the repair done there. I've arranged to pick up some shocks and have them fitted by Rockville Centre Auto Repair, an indy Jag specialist. If the upper bushings turn out to be shot as well, I'll just buy them off of him.
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