Any chance of a longer link?

 

fixed

 

Thanks guys!

No access to a welder, but the brute force idea ought to work...I was just hesitant to wail on it too much. If a bearking puller is available and fits I'll do that, otherwise...the bfh solution.

Reassembly, once I have the new races driven in, just mount the outer seal and bearing on the hub and tap it in with a block of wood on the studs or do I mount the bearng and tap it in with the old race or old bearing and then seat the new seal before driving the hub in? Then the big spacer, then the shim, then the inner bearing, seal and ABS ring? Diagrams I see show the big spacer outside of the shim, but another thread I just found says shim outside of the big spacer...my shim was on the inside, but given how this job appears to have been done in the past, I'm questioning the placement of everything.

 

as for the mounting order i think i did it both ways, do as you feel,
i'm not sure if spacers order matter at all but it is wide one on the outside and tiny ring on the inside
while you have things apart check if tapper bearings holding hub carrier are tight as well

 

As I recall from doing mine, the spacer order and orientation matter very much. I wish I could remember exactly, but it seems like the spacer has a chamfer on the inside, and it has to be oriented correctly so the chamfer fits on the axle shaft shoulder correctly. There will also be one or more shim(s) in there with the spacer. Those are super important, because they determine the preload on the bearings when you tighten the axle nut back up.

My advice is to pay hyper-attention to these parts as you remove the bearings. They will fall out, so be expecting it and know how they came out, both the ORDER and the ORIENTATION of the spacer and shim. Jag makes different thicknesses of shims, and you’re supposed to recheck the spacer thickness needed when you install the new bearings. I did this on mine, but I ended up using the same shims that came out. I think you’re going to be fine simply re-using the shims, as long as you use the same hub.

I used Mag high temp wheel bearing grease for the new bearings.

Edited to add: I do not recommend getting a different hub unless yours is cracked or something. If you have to get a replacement hub, and it includes the spacer and shims that came with it originally, you might be able to use the replacement hub. But if the shims and spacer are not included, you’d have to measure end play of the hub in order to be sure you order the correct shim thickness. It is likely that the shims from your hub will not be the correct thickness for the other hub. That’s a tricky process, because micro-millimeters matter. Best to keep what you have, if possible.

 

Thanks Aquifer!

My hub is in good shape, so I'll be reusing it. I made a spot on my workbench as parts flopped out of the hub carrier and was placing them in the order they came out in, so I'll be putting the shim back in between the spacer and the inner bearing, just need to dry fit it all because the spacer has two different mating surfaces, so it has a definite orientation.

Found a small drift/punch/chisel set yesterday in an old toolbox, gave a square drift and a small chisel a hand ful of test whacks with my 2lb sledge on the inner race...thing didn't budge by any noticable amount. I'm checking the local stores for either a better drift/chisel set or I might get a small cutoff wheel and cut a notch in the old races to make them easier to deform.

I rented a race insertion kit that has tapered anvils and a hardened bolt to drive them with, so installing should be ok as long as I get them started straight...I have heard some people mentioning putting the new races in the freezer for a few hours to get them to contract just slightly and they'll almost drop in...anyone have any good reason not to do this? I'm all in if it simplifies my life.

I have to admire the precision of the fit of these parts...the seams are so tight that they're almost invisible to the eye. Remarkable tolerance.

 

Good grief what a pain in the butt this job has proven to be. Took a lot of banging to get the inner race out...like a LOT of banging back and forth just to get the seam to start to open up. Eventually it came out. Outer race was maybe only a couple dozen good blows to walk it out.

Cleaned everything up, new races went in pretty hard too, but they went in straight and true. Greased up the outer bearing, tried installing it and the outer seal and that went ok, but the hub didnt want to drive into the bearing so i pulled it all out and installed the seal and bearing on the hub, which also required quite a bit more force than i imagined it would, but ok...its in. Hub goes in, drop the barrel spacer in with the correct orientation, the shim and then had to beat the hell out of the inner bearing to get it to fit over the hub and into the race, but no slack in/out in the hub. ABS ring fits over the end of the hub but just floos around, i tapped it on, but im not sure I'm supposed to...if I don't the axle barely has threads coming out to put the nut on...if I do tap it in, the axle comes through ok sp I tapped it in.

I used my old nut to test fir everything, just spun it on with my impact gun to make sure everything was tight. Seemed ok so i pulled it off and put the new one on. Torqued to about 300nm, all looks good.

Problem I have now is tat wheel doesn't turn by hand. I expect it to be much tighter than before, but not immovable. I can turn it slowly with the 2 foot torque wrench on the axle nut, but its really really hard.

Based on what I've written here, did I do something wrong or is this normal new bearing stiffness and i should just reassemble and use engine power to break it in?

Thanks!

 

Not nessarily useful information, but i did check the torque on the other axle nut and it clicked at the same setting i have on my toque wrench which says 306.4nm. Both axle nuts are showing about the same thread exposure.

Just feel like i must have something wrong here...

 

Put the rotor back on and the tire and I still cant rotate the wheel by hand. This cannot be correct and I've got something binding up in there or its just too tight. I didn't give it a spin after every component so I can't say after which step it bound up.

Thinking about this, obviously something is binding up. So I'm guessing either the ABS ring is on the shaft too far, or the axle nut is too tight. I can back the axle nut out, but it'll destroy it when i do and ill have to replace it, so i only want to do this once. I'm confident i put the parts back in the same order they were in originally, but the abs ring just flopped out so its possible I put it in backwards. Given thisophoto, does antone know which face should go towards the center of the car? I installed this face towards the hub and away from the center of the car. Was i correct in pressing it onto the hub?

If there are no other ideas ill try backing the axle nut out a bit at a time to see if it loosens up...i suppose the nut is forfeit regardless since I'll be needing to disassemble in order to find and correct the problem.

 

New seals are stiff but still you can turn the wheel by hand
As you have seen preload is set by bearing cones and both spacers, you can't overtighten it and if you didn't miss anything it must be all right.
You are turning the wheel and the driveline all the way to the gearbox and then some, i never tried turning it due to that fact and i always organize the job in such manner that i don't have to

 

So unless there was maybe a second shim I somehow failed to notice, this is perhaps ok? I've checked the right side with my camera and the abs ring seems to be installed the right way out...only thing I'm left with is either out of order parts or a missing shim...or it's ok as is and needs to be driven.

Maybe I'm just paranoid.

 

there is only one large chamfered spacer and one small about 3mm thick spacer ring, it is hard to mistake abs ring sides
if you back the nut you gonna mess preload and the nut itself
have a look at diagram to ensure you got everything right
could you turn the wheel before starting the job? mine have little play and i can turn it maybe cm or two before it drags, can you?

 

Yup, thats the diagram I used as a reference a few days ago in this thread talking about the position of the shim either inboard or outboard of the big spacer. I'm confident mine was inboard before, which matces this disgram and this is the order I put it back in.

Prior to this job i could turn either rear wheel by hand. I can still turn the right side by hand and with the wheel off it takes two hands but it spins.

Left side with the new bearing, even with the wheel on and using two hands it doesn't move...like at all. It feels like the handbrake is on. If i put a breaker bar on the axle nut, it will turn and when it moves its smooth, no chatter and no grinding noise. Its how I expect it to feel, its just far more effort than I would imagine. But this is the first time I've done this, so I'm a bit patanoid i messed it up and will have to do it again .

It seems like I've probably done this correctly so I'll button it all up, put the tires on and see if it drives ok.

 

Me to i think you are paranoid, if you didn't miss anything, and it looks like you have triple checked each step of your job, it must be all right

 

This doesn’t seem right to me. You should be able to spin the wheel. Not super easily, but definitely without major effort.

I think your preload is too tight. The nut has to be properly torqued, but to test it, back off the nut til you can spin the wheel. That should prove that the preload is too tight, meaning your spacer either isn’t oriented correctly or the shim is on the wrong side of the spacer, or you need to bench test the end play and order the correct thickness of shim.

Don’t drive it. Something isn’t right with it yet.

 

Took it for a short slow drive, maybe 2 miles at moderate speeds. Got home and jacked up the rear end and the wheel will now spin freely, same effort as the other side. Everything feels tight, no drama while driving, no noises, no nothing.

Just got back from a much longer drive, 25 miles...needed gas and my wife needed ice cream. Experienced no issues up to 70mph.

I'm thinking its ok and everything just needed some revolutions to settle in and circulate all the grease? I'm planning driving it to work tomorrow, any thoughts on why I shouldn't?

 

The hub chamfer prevents reverse order of spacers and bearing cones s0 the only thing i imagine could go wrong is that you didn't drive races all the way down, if that is true they probably settled already.

 

Drove it to work today, 50 mile one way trip on the highway at 75-80. No issues apart from the vibration I've noticed since I bought the car is still present, despite the new tires, balancing and swapping out one wheel for the spare wheel because I can see a slight dent in the rim of the old wheel.

I briefly has the ABS/TCS warning lights on the dash and the computer had codes C1175 and C1236 and the ABS scanner, the C1175 also showed up in OBDII scanning along with a check engine light, but these lights and codes all went away after driving it for awhile...assumng since I removed the left rear tone ring and thats the corner the codes were for, that it maybe had to relearn the sensor strength or position or some other witchcraft/voodoo thing. Used cruise most of the way into work today, so the system is definitely operational now.

xjack, aquifer and hooli, thank you very much for your patience and advice.

 

Sometimes. you just need to trust your gut.

 

..Pleasure is all ours

If you feel vibration in the steering wheel than it comes from the front and if in the butt than from the back. you gonna have to lift the car and check everything thoroughly, something in suspension is loose or worn