So I went to look at an '03 XJ8 off CL. She had a bad clicking noise at the Right Rear. I went back there and could rock the wheel in typical bad wheel bearing fashion. I dropped my offer and left with the car but when I went to change the bearings I noted that the play is at the Diff, and its HUGE.


I know how to pull those output shaft carriers but is there a DIY on doing the bearings inside once I get them pulled or do I have to buy the whole assy?


Thanks!

 

Just the post I needed

If you have it apart already, please measure the thickness of the flange at the
inboard end of the halfshaft. That would save me a drive out to the storage
locker. I need accuracy to 0.5mm, or equivalent in inches. The next hours
would be good, or I will already have trekked out there.

The link below is what I consider the canonical link for the job:

Jaguar V8 Axle Rebuild

You will need to order the retaining ring, bearings, seals.

Some shops have been able to remove the ring with heat
while cooling the shaft. Apparently removing such rings is
common on other machinery shafts.

There are also:

Diff Output Bearing. [Archive] - JaguarForum.com - The World's # 1 Jaguar Car Forum

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...earings-91921/

X300, same theory:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...acement-55642/

The search words I used to find the Georgia Jag link again were:

jaguar differential shaft ring press chisel drill

 

As plums said, you'll need to purchase the bearing, seal, and collar. To remove the collar, I used different methods, finally settling on a cut-off wheel. The Jaguar repair manual suggested drilling into the collar with several small holes in line and then splitting it with a chisel. This would cause the collar to fracture and release the tension so it could be pulled off by hand. Another way was to use a huge drill bit going slow and then hit it with a chisel. Both of these take too much time in a flat rate shop so I would use a cut-off wheel with the guard removed (eye an ear protection always on) and would carefully slice across the collar at and angle. Then smack it with a chisel to fracture it. The collar and bearing and flange come off at that point. One thing to note is that you don't want to go too far into the collar that you start hacking away at the shaft itself. Careful consideration can go a long way. If you knick the shaft, no big deal, but don't damage the shaft or you're screwed. Installation is the reverse of removal, ensuring you replace the seal in the flange before reinstalling the bearing and collar. The new collar needs to be pressed on.

Now, with all that said, there is some play in that setup in the diff. It is not worthwhile to replace the bearing if the play will be the same.

Best of luck

 

Just happen to have my halfshaft stripped down on the bench,


The flange is 10.75mm thick at the bolt holes,


The diff flange is 9mm thick at the bolt holes,


I have a 4mm shim between the two.


The flange is 116mm diameter with a depth of 61mm from the mounting face to the top of the U/J keep.


Hope this is in time, and of some use.

 

Yes it is!

And very comprehensive too.

I lucked out on the spare because it had a 7.5mm and a 6.0mm installed
at some point replacing the usual 4.0mm

It occurred to me that crawling under and measuring flange+shim and
simple arithmentic will tell me what is currently installed and whether
the spare shims will be suitable to correct the negative camber on
the car.

installed shim = Xmm - 10.75mm

if measuring just the two and omitting the output flange, otherwise

installed shim = Xmm - 10.75mm - 9.0mm

++

 

Thanks...awesome info. I will tear into this on Sunday. Thanks!

 

Good to know that there may be some play even when I am finished. Right now I can move the wheel nearly an inch when rocking it at 12 and 6.
I can see all of that play at the output shaft. Hope this fixes it.

 

Thanks for the info...car drives like a dream with the new carrier in the diff!