Rear differential replacement DIY?
#1
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Hello esteemed Jag fans,
My 2003 XJR's rear differential grenaded this morning (94K of hard miles) and went from just loud whining to what sounds like it lost a few teeth (with loud, wheel skipping jerks every 1/3 wheel revolution).
Looking at the diff it seems relatively simple to remove after you've gotten access to it - lower the subframe, remove output shaft bolts, remove input shaft bolts, remove from subframe - yet the Jag shops I'm talking to are saying 10-12 hours for the work. What am I missing? How terrible of an idea is it to attempt this as a DIY?
Thanks!
My 2003 XJR's rear differential grenaded this morning (94K of hard miles) and went from just loud whining to what sounds like it lost a few teeth (with loud, wheel skipping jerks every 1/3 wheel revolution).
Looking at the diff it seems relatively simple to remove after you've gotten access to it - lower the subframe, remove output shaft bolts, remove input shaft bolts, remove from subframe - yet the Jag shops I'm talking to are saying 10-12 hours for the work. What am I missing? How terrible of an idea is it to attempt this as a DIY?
Thanks!
#3
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10-12 hours must be assuming a rebuild of the differential and then a couple of hours as a safety margin.
When I dropped the W member out of my wrecked 2001 XJ8 that took about 1.5 hours but I was learning as I went.
In the past I've been able to do a gear change in about 4 hours and that included all the bearings in a standard live axel.
Figure another 1.5 hours to put everything back together. So that's 7 hours if everything goes perfect.
When I dropped the W member out of my wrecked 2001 XJ8 that took about 1.5 hours but I was learning as I went.
In the past I've been able to do a gear change in about 4 hours and that included all the bearings in a standard live axel.
Figure another 1.5 hours to put everything back together. So that's 7 hours if everything goes perfect.
#4
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BTW I did drop it in the driveway and it was a gravel drive at that.
Multiple floor jacks were required. Then I sat the W member down on two 2x6's and used them like skis to get it out from under the car.
Doing the job on a concrete drive or garage floor I'd use a couple of 4 wheel movers dollies to roll it out from under the car instead. I keep a few of them around for rolling around transmissions and other heavy stuff.
Multiple floor jacks were required. Then I sat the W member down on two 2x6's and used them like skis to get it out from under the car.
Doing the job on a concrete drive or garage floor I'd use a couple of 4 wheel movers dollies to roll it out from under the car instead. I keep a few of them around for rolling around transmissions and other heavy stuff.
#5
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I just did it two weekends ago in my driveway. It sucked, but was doable. I'm not well, so I hired a neighbor to help. Even with me not being able to get around much, it only took about 6 hours. Nothing was really technically difficult, just heavy stuff. I replaced the pumpkin with a 74k mile one from a wrecking yard for $300. All in all, it's nice to hear no noise...
Jack up and block heavily. I used 4 3-ton jack stands and kept the jack around just in case. I left the front wheels on the ground and blocked them.
Placed rolling jack under pumpkin.
Removed Wheels.
Removed Axles and Drive line (11 bolts total).
Removed brackets at outer edges that hold everything in place (3 Bolts each Side).
Removed Brake Calipers (2 allens), Parking Brake Cable (1 adjusting nut), Anti Lock Wiring (Unclipped and moved out of way).
Unbolted Shock Towers from body (8 bolts total).
Lowered Jack to drop everything down in one piece and rolled from under car.
Removed Pumpkin and replaced watching carefully where all the washers/bolts go.
Greased 4 universals on axles while out.
Rolled unit back under car and reversed above procedure.
I had already done my brakes about 2 months ago, or I would have done them while out.
Sorry I didn't take photos, I was not sure I was even going to be able to get it back together, and I was paying my guy by the hour.
My Local Independent shop quoted me $1500 for the pumpkin and installation. In fact, the EXACT pumpkin I installed because the wrecking yard told me he had called about it.
AAMCO quoted me $640 to install it for me if I supplied it. I paid my guy $200. I saved money, and he made $200 for 6 hours. He normally charges neighbors $15/hr for yard work, mechanic work, etc, so we were both happy. Besides, I like to do my own work any time I can. That way, I know every bolt has been installed right... Well, at least I think so.
My wife says I'm sort of a control freak.
Jack up and block heavily. I used 4 3-ton jack stands and kept the jack around just in case. I left the front wheels on the ground and blocked them.
Placed rolling jack under pumpkin.
Removed Wheels.
Removed Axles and Drive line (11 bolts total).
Removed brackets at outer edges that hold everything in place (3 Bolts each Side).
Removed Brake Calipers (2 allens), Parking Brake Cable (1 adjusting nut), Anti Lock Wiring (Unclipped and moved out of way).
Unbolted Shock Towers from body (8 bolts total).
Lowered Jack to drop everything down in one piece and rolled from under car.
Removed Pumpkin and replaced watching carefully where all the washers/bolts go.
Greased 4 universals on axles while out.
Rolled unit back under car and reversed above procedure.
I had already done my brakes about 2 months ago, or I would have done them while out.
Sorry I didn't take photos, I was not sure I was even going to be able to get it back together, and I was paying my guy by the hour.
My Local Independent shop quoted me $1500 for the pumpkin and installation. In fact, the EXACT pumpkin I installed because the wrecking yard told me he had called about it.
AAMCO quoted me $640 to install it for me if I supplied it. I paid my guy $200. I saved money, and he made $200 for 6 hours. He normally charges neighbors $15/hr for yard work, mechanic work, etc, so we were both happy. Besides, I like to do my own work any time I can. That way, I know every bolt has been installed right... Well, at least I think so.
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#7
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#8
#9
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`I am going to have to do this to my 2003 xjr r1. does anybody know if the diff is universal? will any one from a 1998 to 2003 work for me? The number on my case is 14hu-010-002. I have done a 1998 suburban entire third member replacement, and this sounds similar. Also, when I get a used diff, should I change out the fluid, and if so, what fluid would those of you who have done this recommend.
#10
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`I am going to have to do this to my 2003 xjr r1. does anybody know if the diff is universal? will any one from a 1998 to 2003 work for me? The number on my case is 14hu-010-002. I have done a 1998 suburban entire third member replacement, and this sounds similar. Also, when I get a used diff, should I change out the fluid, and if so, what fluid would those of you who have done this recommend.
#12
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I realize this is the poor mans way of doing it, but it's what I've got at the moment.
#13
#14
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Jack up and block heavily. I used 4 3-ton jack stands and kept the jack around just in case. I left the front wheels on the ground and blocked them.
Placed rolling jack under pumpkin.
Removed Wheels.
Removed Axles and Drive line (11 bolts total).
Removed brackets at outer edges that hold everything in place (3 Bolts each Side).
Removed Brake Calipers (2 allens), Parking Brake Cable (1 adjusting nut), Anti Lock Wiring (Unclipped and moved out of way).
Unbolted Shock Towers from body (8 bolts total).
Lowered Jack to drop everything down in one piece and rolled from under car.
Removed Pumpkin and replaced watching carefully where all the washers/bolts go.
Greased 4 universals on axles while out.
Rolled unit back under car and reversed above procedure.
Placed rolling jack under pumpkin.
Removed Wheels.
Removed Axles and Drive line (11 bolts total).
Removed brackets at outer edges that hold everything in place (3 Bolts each Side).
Removed Brake Calipers (2 allens), Parking Brake Cable (1 adjusting nut), Anti Lock Wiring (Unclipped and moved out of way).
Unbolted Shock Towers from body (8 bolts total).
Lowered Jack to drop everything down in one piece and rolled from under car.
Removed Pumpkin and replaced watching carefully where all the washers/bolts go.
Greased 4 universals on axles while out.
Rolled unit back under car and reversed above procedure.
Thanks,
Dan
#15
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XJROh3 and Dan,
The photos below are of the diff work on our '93 XJ40, which is obviously a little different from the X308 but identical in function. The pix will give you an idea of the work involved. Swapping diffs is absolutely doable in the driveway as long as you follow good safety procedures. Rebuilding the diff is also doable at home, but if you can pay for a professionally-rebuilt unit on an exchange basis, that would be my first recommendation, since there is a LOT to learn about properly setting up a diff for long life and quiet running, and getting anything wrong is going to mean doing it over again.
Cheers,
Don
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The photos below are of the diff work on our '93 XJ40, which is obviously a little different from the X308 but identical in function. The pix will give you an idea of the work involved. Swapping diffs is absolutely doable in the driveway as long as you follow good safety procedures. Rebuilding the diff is also doable at home, but if you can pay for a professionally-rebuilt unit on an exchange basis, that would be my first recommendation, since there is a LOT to learn about properly setting up a diff for long life and quiet running, and getting anything wrong is going to mean doing it over again.
Cheers,
Don
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Last edited by Don B; 04-15-2014 at 03:46 PM.
#16
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Don B,
Thanks for those pics. They're awesome!!
I'll be fighting time on this one. I was hoping to put it off a little, but today the noise went from a high pitch hum to a much lower noise. Sounds like an un-greased bearing might sound. Not the kind of sound that makes you feel comfortable. I'm going to hold off driving until i can fix it this weekend or get it to a shop next Wednesday. Has anyone else had their rear diff go out in a similar way? For example, it really only hums when i slow down by releasing my foot off the gas. Nothing at higher speeds or whenever I accelerate on the city roads.
Thanks again for the pics. I hope I have time to do it myself this weekend. Unfortunately lately, the problems seem to arise when I'm busy with a bunch of other things or its frigid outside.
Dan
Thanks for those pics. They're awesome!!
I'll be fighting time on this one. I was hoping to put it off a little, but today the noise went from a high pitch hum to a much lower noise. Sounds like an un-greased bearing might sound. Not the kind of sound that makes you feel comfortable. I'm going to hold off driving until i can fix it this weekend or get it to a shop next Wednesday. Has anyone else had their rear diff go out in a similar way? For example, it really only hums when i slow down by releasing my foot off the gas. Nothing at higher speeds or whenever I accelerate on the city roads.
Thanks again for the pics. I hope I have time to do it myself this weekend. Unfortunately lately, the problems seem to arise when I'm busy with a bunch of other things or its frigid outside.
Dan
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#18
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I'm getting the run around trying to get my rear differential fluid changed. Had some guys tell me they can rack it & use a suction tool to remove it(but they are booked for weeks & 100 miles away). The local guys are quoting 8-10 hours labor dropping the sub-frame etc @ 800$.
King Charles,
Our '93 has a drain plug on the differential that makes draining easy. Refilling it is a little more awkward because the fill hole is about half-way up the rear cover. Working from below you have to do it mostly by feel. If you remove the trim in the trunk/boot you may find a plug in the bulkhead sheet metal that when removed opens a hole that allows easier access to the diff fill plug.
If your diff does not have a drain plug, you should still be able to remove nearly all the old fluid using a "fluid transfer pump," available for less than $10.00 at most auto parts stores. I think mine are made by Prestone and are bright orange in color, and if I recall correctly they cost about $7.99. One hose is the suction tube, and the other hose is the discharge tube. Easy as pie to pump fluid out of a diff, transmission, crankcase, etc. Refilling with new oil is the reverse - you pump oil into the diff. When it reaches the level of the drain hole and spills out, the level is correct. This is a job just about any home mechanic can do in the driveway with the rear end raised and safely supported on jack stands.
I can't think of any possible reason that the rear end would need to be dropped from the car. The parts diagram at jaguarclassicparts.com clearly shows a fill plug on the back cover of the X308 diff. Maybe I'm wrong - did they give a reason why the diff needs to be dropped to change the fluid?
Cheers,
Don
Last edited by Don B; 04-16-2014 at 09:56 AM.
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#19
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Lowering the subframe, if you had to do it, should be .5 hours. It is eight (8) bolts and a crosslink. but you only have to remove the rear bolts and loosen the front ones to drop the rear of the subframe 6 or 8 inches. I do that to remove the fuel lines from the tank. You need to find an honest (or less greedy) mechanic.
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