Hello, all

I believe I need to change my rear right wheel bearing.Instead of buying the adequate hub puller, and having to press out and press in new bearings, I decided to just buy a whole used rear hub/spindle/half-shaft assembly altogether. I ordered it, but they ended up sending the left rear side due to communication error, but upon attempting to spin the shaft in the hub assembly, it seems like there is a lot of resistance as it wont keep spinning after putting a good amount of torque to it.

My question is if this is normal, to have a fair amount of resistance in turning the rear shaft in the hub assembly? Or could this be a sign of too much wear?

Also, I can move the half-shaft back and forth while attached to the hub assembly. The nut at the end of the shaft could probably by tightened more for it to not do that, but I thought it wasn't supposed to do this, as the half-shaft is pressed in and requires some sort of puller to come loose?
--If it helps, this video shows what I mean: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RUu...ew?usp=sharing

The spindle itself seems solid, with no play. I'm going to return this anyways, but I want an idea of what a good used component looks like.

 

The driveshaft is loose, it needs torqued up to 304-336Nm.


They did the smart thing and undid that nut before removing the hub from the car, otherwise it is impossible to hold to undo the nut.

 

Thanks.

So the only thing holding the shaft to the hub assembly is the hub nut on the end of the half shaft? Why do we need pullers to get the shaft off the hub assembly then?

 

Just because it's pressed on tight when that nut is seated, and then over time, pressure and rust contribute to holding it even tighter in place.

To add: It definitely looks like in that video, that the nut isn't nearly tightened down enough. I'm rather sure the one on mine has a few more threads extending beyond the nut once tightened.

 

You shouldn't, the shaft will just pull straight out unless water has got into it and seized the splines. Once the shaft is out and ABS sensor ring will usually fall off, and with a gentle tap the hub will come out too. It basically just falls apart. I have dismantled four of them to change bearings and used nothing more than a hammer and punch.

 

Jaguar does use a locking compound on the splines in the hub/shaft.
A 'slide-hammer' can be used to pull the hub from the shaft if the bearings are being replaced with the hub 'in-situ'.


I often leave the lower fulcrum shaft/bearings in place and just replace the hub bearings. (it can be done)


bob

 

Mmmh I see. But you still require a hydraulic press to get the new bearings in?

If it were an easy task, then I would rather put new bearings in, but given that the "squeaky/screech" coming from my rear right wheel could be caused by multiple things, I'd figure I just replace the whole unit.

 

I have replaced bearings in the hub with nothing more than a chisel punch and hammer.In my experience the drive shaft just pulls out after undoing the nut. The hub shaft taps out and then carefully tap the outer race out of the ally hub iirc do the back one first is easier. Remember to replace spacers in the correct way round in between the bearings.

 

That seems easy, but a few months ago, I tried investigating the sound. I removed the bolt that connects the hub assembly to control arm, and the axle nut, and could not remove the hub assembly from the shaft, so I don't think mine will be that easy.

I've haven't been working on cars for a long time, but I can tell you, that I know it's not going to be an easy job even with semi-adequate tools I can get access to. I will go with a replacement assembly instead.

Thanks for all the info, though.