Rear right half shaft removal
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motorcarman (06-23-2018)
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On my car I used an 11/16 combo wrench on the back, and about 2 feet of extensions between an 11/16 socket, and an electric impact gun. I was able to get them off in the junkyard with a 2 ft breaker bar instead of the impact, but it was pretty miserable and took a while.
Once you break them loose, either remove the nut completely, or only back it off a full turn from snug, if it's halfway off it will hit the U-joint when you try and rotate the halfshaft for clearance to the next bolt.
Once you break them loose, either remove the nut completely, or only back it off a full turn from snug, if it's halfway off it will hit the U-joint when you try and rotate the halfshaft for clearance to the next bolt.
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Join Date: Feb 2013
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Yeah, I ended up getting an 11/16 th socket for the impact gun.
The funny things is that I decided to replace the whole axle shaft/spindle/hub assembly in attempt fix what I think is a noisy wheel bearing. But this way has probably turned out to be more difficult and costly...
The funny things is that I decided to replace the whole axle shaft/spindle/hub assembly in attempt fix what I think is a noisy wheel bearing. But this way has probably turned out to be more difficult and costly...
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yes I had to cut them. Fortunately I was switching to a whole new rebuilt "15HU" and stronger differential from the earlier x300/xj40 so salvaging all parts of the x308 diff wasn't necessary
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I bought a MAPP torch set at Home Depot. It puts out a small flame almost as hot as a oxy acetylene and can heat nuts to red very quickly without the problem of heating the surrounding area that you get with propane. The little oxygen cylinders don't last very long but they're only about $11.
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I bought a MAPP torch set at Home Depot. It puts out a small flame almost as hot as a oxy acetylene and can heat nuts to red very quickly without the problem of heating the surrounding area that you get with propane. The little oxygen cylinders don't last very long but they're only about $11.
Interesting suggestion, but I think I will do the job the right way this time and put a new bearing in, instead of just replacing the assembly with an old used one.
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Yeah, I needed to remove the 4 nuts so that I could replace the shaft/hub assembly altogether with a used assembly, to resolve the noisy wheel bearing issue. Instead, I plan on actually replacing the bearing. So I think I'm done trying to get the 4 bolts off for now.
Thanks for the suggestion though.
Thanks for the suggestion though.
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