Rear shock removal
#1
07-12-2017, 07:17 PM
Rear shock removal
Hi All,
I am in the process of replacing rear shocks on my 2001 XJR. I am following the procedure shown here:
http://jaguar.blackonyx.net/tech/rearshocks.pdf
I have already removed the A-frame. Those two top bolts were a bear, had to hit them with the torch.
Anyhow, the procedure shown places a jack under the shock area, raise a bit to get bolt out, then lower which presumably releases pressure on spring. The one thing I do NOT see before he has the assembly on the bench is the use of any sort of spring compressor. Is this a big safety oversight or is the shock essentially keeping the spring from flying through a wall (or me).
Figured I would check first. My other concern is the 4 top shock nuts on either side. Those look kind of rusty and do not want to snap the stud / bolt they attach to. Thinking I should hit them with torch first as well?
Thanks,
Mike
I am in the process of replacing rear shocks on my 2001 XJR. I am following the procedure shown here:
http://jaguar.blackonyx.net/tech/rearshocks.pdf
I have already removed the A-frame. Those two top bolts were a bear, had to hit them with the torch.
Anyhow, the procedure shown places a jack under the shock area, raise a bit to get bolt out, then lower which presumably releases pressure on spring. The one thing I do NOT see before he has the assembly on the bench is the use of any sort of spring compressor. Is this a big safety oversight or is the shock essentially keeping the spring from flying through a wall (or me).
Figured I would check first. My other concern is the 4 top shock nuts on either side. Those look kind of rusty and do not want to snap the stud / bolt they attach to. Thinking I should hit them with torch first as well?
Thanks,
Mike
The following users liked this post:
dude1579 (12-11-2017)
#2
07-12-2017, 09:44 PM
Veteran Member
I followed the exact same way, although I had no stuck bolts / nuts, fortunately...
Regarding your questions:
1. As you removed the A-frame, there is hardly any pressure on the spring anyway once the hub is hanging, no worries there.
That's also why this is my preferred procedure, no need for compressors, for which there is hardly space on the drivers side anyway.
2. As mentioned, my top shock nuts came out like new, but a night in good penetration oil might do the trick.
Be careful with a torch, there are fuel lines and filter on the left side!
Regarding your questions:
1. As you removed the A-frame, there is hardly any pressure on the spring anyway once the hub is hanging, no worries there.
That's also why this is my preferred procedure, no need for compressors, for which there is hardly space on the drivers side anyway.
2. As mentioned, my top shock nuts came out like new, but a night in good penetration oil might do the trick.
Be careful with a torch, there are fuel lines and filter on the left side!
The following users liked this post:
dude1579 (12-11-2017)
#3
07-12-2017, 09:48 PM
The following 2 users liked this post by motorcarman:
dude1579 (12-11-2017),
King Charles (12-09-2017)
#4
07-12-2017, 10:38 PM
Thanks all.
I had already removed a-frame. It needed a good cleaning up / repainting and I will do the bushings at same time.
Removed the shock on one side a little bit ago. The nuts were rusty but three of them came off easily. the other brought the stud out with it but it is two sided so I can hopefully find a replacement without special order from UK. Everything else looked pretty good, no surprises.
As eric noted, pressure on springs essentially released so the assembly just kind of falls out once undone.
While I have everything apart I will do right side rear wheel bearing and u-joints (did the left a few months ago). Also going to replace all the brake hoses.
I thought I might be able to change diff fluid with a-frame out but they clearly designed it to be essentially non-servicable.
Thanks again
I had already removed a-frame. It needed a good cleaning up / repainting and I will do the bushings at same time.
Removed the shock on one side a little bit ago. The nuts were rusty but three of them came off easily. the other brought the stud out with it but it is two sided so I can hopefully find a replacement without special order from UK. Everything else looked pretty good, no surprises.
As eric noted, pressure on springs essentially released so the assembly just kind of falls out once undone.
While I have everything apart I will do right side rear wheel bearing and u-joints (did the left a few months ago). Also going to replace all the brake hoses.
I thought I might be able to change diff fluid with a-frame out but they clearly designed it to be essentially non-servicable.
Thanks again