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Yes, that was only 4K miles ago. My 20 year old XJ8 has only 83K miles and I’ve owned it 15 years. Just my beater to get around the island where I live...
Anyway, I recently started getting a new clunk in the rear. The last thing I suspected was the new-- relatively-- Shocks. 5 years ago, it was-- quite obviously-- the bottom shock bushing.
To see what it was this time, I jacked the car up and removed the wheel and inspected all the bushing and couldn't find a fault. I did this more than once, thinking I must be missing something. The only bushing you can’t see is the one sealed in the shock tower-- see pic on page 19 of the link.
So, I had my girlfriend-- hold the jokes; she’s not a whale-- bounce on the boot, while I looked with a flashlight at night. I “think” I saw movement in the bushing in the shock tower. I say, "I think", because accessing the top bushing in the shock tower is No Picnic-- read the link for what's involved!
By process of elimination, I guessed the uppermost shock bushing failed.
So, I went back to this forum to see if there are alternatives to the procedure described in the link. There are!
One or more says to just remove the four (rear-most) 19mm bolts on the axle plate-- see page 4 of the link for location-- and "pry or bend" the plate and wedge a block of wood in there. That allows the lower control arm to drop enough to get the shock/ spring combo out and-- one would think-- save a lot of time. I was skeptical about bending the plate past the yield point, but the authors were convincing, so I tried it. See pic...
It worked. But... it wound up taking me more time than the "tried and true" method described in the link... which is, BTW, far less involved than the JTIS version... Also, IMHO, you Still have to remove the brake calipers-- someone asked about that and I didn't see an answer. That's a lot of the time involved, so removing a few more bolts and balancing the diff plate won't add much time to the job...
Here's my pic of the offending bushing... Both sides were bad, BTW... I also tried using a spring compressor-- my additional attempt at time saving. Forget about it. Probably added more time to the job and is only marginally safe! It may not seem like it at first, but you CAN get the shock and tower out with the spring fully uncompressed by following the link instructions.
Look, I'm sure there are lots of time-saving shortcuts, and I've found many on this forum. But, if you're just a guy who can turn a wrench and not afraid of tackling big jobs, just stick to the detailed-- more than most-- instructions in the link. The "prying and bending" method probably works great for the folks who do this for a living. If, on the other-hand, you might do this once or twice in your lifetime, follow the link... Thank you Chris... wherever you may be 16 years later.
A few comments on the link:
1. Rotating the axle shafts-- described on page 12-- is necessary to get the shock/ tower assembly out. Going step-by-step, you've already removed the brake calipers and ABS sensor connection, so you have to switch on the ignition and put car in neutral. Don't do as I did and stab the brakes. I nearly pushed the brake caliper piston out!... Close call. Also, that-- ignition on-- triggers the ABS and CEL light... Trouble codes C1165 and C1175 or more. Resetting the OBDII will be needed. Don't panic when you see those warning lights... All is well... If you don't have a OBDll scanner, the parts chains will reset for free (but, unless you just bought the XJ, I'm sure you know this-- about CEL's-- and, if not, maybe you shouldn't be DIY'g).
2. Also, on page 12 & 14, Chris says use a 14mm deep socket and U-joint to remove the shock tower nuts. Not needed. Just the deep socket and rachet can reach all four nuts. The impact wrench is a big plus-- especially of this engineer/ attorney, now in my 60's. I didn't have one 5 years ago and am still learning it and my limits! However, you'll do fine without one!
3. Speaking of the impact wrench, the link suggests getting the upper shock nut off with it-- page 20. Didn't work for me. The time-consuming Cresent wrench and box/open 17mm was needed-- page 23.
Crappy Orange Bushings...
So, it was my top-most crappy orange bushings that failed-- both sides. Car has been near or on the Texas coast all its life, so one would think high humidity would be good for rubber or those foam-like orange bushings. Yes for rubber... but, not so apparently for those foamy things. The sealed shock tower was filled with orange dust. I've already done both sides of my front shocks with rubber or urethane... That's easy and didn't require spring removal, like the rears.
That giant donut thing-- the spring cushion; page 25 of the link-- was replaced 5 years ago. It was still functional but, where exposed to air, was crumbly. I didn't replace it this time, so we shall see how long it lasts.
I didn't want to do this again to the rears so I looked at some alternatives. Remember, I didn't know for sure it was the relatively new orange bushing on top of the shock tower-- the one you can't see. So, I didn't order anything online before pulling this contraption apart. Also, didn't want the car sitting, immobile on jack stands for a week or so. So, I was going for a quick fix with stuff readily available.
The Experiment...
As said, I've used a hodgepodge of stuff-- orange foam, rubber, urethane-- to fix the shock bushings on the front. So far, so good.
I had planned to use some generic rubber or urethane bushings to replace whatever was wrong in the rear. And, I didn't exactly remember how the upper rear bushings were configured.
Well, when I got everything apart, I saw that stock, generic bushings wouldn't cut it. The hole in the shock tower is kinda big. This pic shows my work-around.
My scribble is the "mother-of-necessity" solution. This only worked for me because the old Monroe shocks have a washer built into the plastic dust cover. It rests on the slot in the shock rod. Otherwise, you need some more big washers...
(BTW, first attempt, with the concave/convex top washer pointed down, resulted in stripping the shock stem threads-- by tightening the nut past the treads... Which in turn led to a top nut that wouldn't move... Which led to having to cut through the shock rod with an angle grinder to get the shock tower off... Which led to ordering a new shock. Luckily, Orielly's online had a Monroe-- same crappy one I used as a replacement 5 years ago-- with next day store pick-up for a little over $100.)
So, my solution, for one side, was to clam-shell a generic bushing in the shock tower. Engineering-wise (I be one), it isn't the best of designs. The shock rod is basically metal-on-metal on rebound. Still, these are gas-charged shocks and, when the top bushing disintegrates, you're left with metal-on-metal and an air gap, rather than rubber filling the gap.
With the new Orielly's shock and new orange bushings on one side and my F-around on the other, the experiment has started.
No matter which side fails first, both sides will get new rubber or urethane bushing the same size as the factory dimensions-- wide, flat and big hole in the middle. Anyone know of anybody that has them??? Otherwise, I'll make some... Maybe...
Anyway, for now, ride is perfect-- at least as good as an otherwise 20 year old car can be. I can't notice any difference in the two sides. In fact, if I had to choose, when hitting a rough spot, my clam-shell side seems better than the new Orielly's side!
BTW, I only keep the car because its value is so low. Only 83K miles, tranny upgraded (A-drum, IIRC?) and rebuilt 5K ago, engine (regular maintained w/ syn oil) runs great, only sunroof and, sometimes, auto tilt up steeringwheel sensor don't work like new. Paint has suffered too, sitting outside (one-car garage reserved for V12, MB, not Jag). If anyone needs a bulletproof tranny or engine, I could part-- no pun intended-- with this 20 year old gem (whole car) for less than the cost of either. It's ready to drive anywhere in the USA but I'm located as far south in Texas as you can go...
OP here. So, the clam-shell -- Generic rubber bushing clamped between washers for the top bushing-- is working okay. Of course, I'm not exactly running the Baja 1000...
But, I do have a question, if I may:
I mentioned the auto, steering-up, when you pull out the key, is sketchy... It goes up, but "clicks" when all the way up. Like the limiter isn't sensing the position. A touch of the manual adjustment knob stops it but, if I don't touch the knob, the steering-wheel sticks "up" on restart and won't come back down without a restart. Minor annoyance, but an annoyance nonetheless!
I tried a hard reboot, to no avail.
I suspect a bad position sensor but otherwise have no idea, or where it's located, or how to access. Any tricks? Any comments appreciated.
Here's a TSB pdf to review, its not direct, but gives you an idea of possibilities...
The 2nd one is the electrical setup, go to pg 52 of the pdf, which is pg 50 of the manual. Which will give you the steering and layout to the micro-switches on the next pg.
... It goes up, but "clicks" when all the way up....I suspect a bad position sensor but otherwise have no idea, or where it's located, or how to access.
The steering tilt (as well as the reach) motor has a built-in potentiometer which provides info on the movement to whichever module controls it. Potentiometers get worn after some time and stop providing correct info (variable resistance). I don't know whether the potentiometer within the motor assembly can easily be accessed or whether there is any way of replacing it with a generic one. You probably need to replace the whole assembly.
Perhaps MS can detail this exploded view. I've had this around for awhile and can't find the numbered description. I know the top one is the manually operated version and thus the 2nd electric.
I'm still trying to absorb what I'll be looking for, but this is great start. Seems to be the motor and, if a new one is needed-- as opposed to a cheap used one--, I may just keep "flicking" the auto switch when exiting the vehicle... It's amazing how quickly it becomes second nature... As someone, other than me, said, "Adds character to the car!"
Also, I can just take it out of "auto", but really like the ease of exit when the steering wheel goes up by itself. My time would better served, however, replacing the sunroof cable-- I've had a look and it's a mess. But more useful that the retracting steering wheel....
Thanks again to all... I'll update if I can add anything...
If I understand it correctly, it's the potentiometer that stops it-- like the power window motors???
No, window motors have no potentiometers. They are just stalled at the ends of the window travel and then the power to the motor is quickly cut-off by the Door Control Module.
The pots of the steering column motors provide information on the position of the steering wheel (tilt & reach) to the Body Processor Module which starts and stops the running of the motors.
And, thanks MS for the correction on the motor differences...
The saga continues on the auto-retract steering-wheel.... I tried using Motorman's instructions (link above) to pull the tilt motor. I removed the two 4mm Allen screws and couldn't even find the tilt motor??? Which is supposed to just "slide out."
Long story short, it's not the tilt motor potentiometer. It's-- my best guess-- the telescoping cable!!! I total forgot the wheel also telescopes, not using it in so long. So, that's a horse of a different color and, to me, not worth the effort to sort... At least, not what I've read here... Easiest fix is a new/used steering column...See:
So, for now, I'll either leave the auto position knob in off or continue to "flick" the knob on exit... Works for me...
But, I did learn something... If your tilt motor completely fails and gets stuck in an unwanted position-- like all the way up; golf-cart position--, you can take out the two 4mm Allen screws and set "tilt" to a position of your liking!
However, sounds like the more common problem is the telescope; which also causes clicking when the system tries to go to auto-retract...
If your game to replace the column, then there's (2) X308's being parted out in The Marketplace. One is a recent accident and well kept by the owner Col. Sandurz the other was bought as a parts car, he got what he wanted and is passing it on.
Thanks for the lead but, Naw, this is really a minor inconvenience. Hell, I didn't even know the telescopic steering-wheel wasn't working until I tried to tear into it to "fix" the tilt.
Along the lines of the recent "sado-maso" post, the only reason I've kept her, as opposed to getting something "better," is the car is just too damned classy and reliable, and worth too little monetarily, to part with. The only car I've owned even close to as long was a Porsche 928S-- about 10 years.
Today, I had to take a grinder to the bottom lip of the boot lid to try to stop the cancer/rust that's started there. You see, the poor old Jag has had to sit outside for the last 8 years and, the elements are taking their toll-- see, undercarriage pic in OP. Best and highest use of this car would be for someone with a perfect chassis to transplant the near perfect engine and tranny into something with a good body and interior. So, rather than looking for a parts car, I'd like to see mine go as one. On the other hand, why would I want to get rid of it?
Runs and drives great and, from 50 feet away, still looks pretty good!
I've owned three different makes of V-12's-- Ferrari, BMW and MB--, so maybe I'm easy to impress with reliability. But, I think this is the "Camry" of Jags. Probably didn't think so when the tranny exploded in my driveway-- but, it's never Not got me home... LOL. Never been towed home in 15 years...
That said, I encourage everyone to keep the 308 on the road. Sorry, I have't been able to garage and keep mine pristine.
05-19-2020, 02:38 AM
Rear Shock Replacement, Crappy Bushings and An Experiment
