Removing old fuel
#1
Removing old fuel
Recently inherited a 1998 Jaguar XJ8 that's been sitting in a garage for 5 years. I don't know the condition of the vehicle before it was parked so I'm flying blind.
What's the best way to remove the old fuel from the tank? Can it be removed without the battery being charged or without? Any help will be much appreciated
Thanks.
What's the best way to remove the old fuel from the tank? Can it be removed without the battery being charged or without? Any help will be much appreciated
Thanks.
#2
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MaxSteel61 (10-04-2022)
#3
The following 2 users liked this post by Addicted2boost:
MaxSteel61 (10-02-2022),
TBay_Peter (10-13-2022)
#4
These cars were never designed to be stored for that period of time. Replace ALL of the fluids.
Replace the battery. Inspect the engine for animal nesting. Squirt some oil into the cylinders
and do a compression check while you are there. Rotate each tire about 60 degrees to smooth
out the "wump wump" you will no doubt have. Being a 1998 you definitely want to check the
tensioners as "Addicted to boost" suggested and you may wish to start there.
Replace the battery. Inspect the engine for animal nesting. Squirt some oil into the cylinders
and do a compression check while you are there. Rotate each tire about 60 degrees to smooth
out the "wump wump" you will no doubt have. Being a 1998 you definitely want to check the
tensioners as "Addicted to boost" suggested and you may wish to start there.
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MaxSteel61 (10-02-2022)
#5
Thanks Addicted2boost
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Addicted2boost (10-02-2022)
#6
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Don B (10-02-2022)
#7
If the fuel pump won't run which is almost certain if its been sitting for five years, you can siphon the fuel using something like1/4" or 5/16" OD stiff nylon tubing from the hardware store - the same kind like you'd use to hook up a refrigerator ice maker. Takes a bit to work it around and down the pipe into the tank, but it can be done with patience. Just cut the end of the tube off at a slight angle.
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MaxSteel61 (10-04-2022)
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#8
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MaxSteel61 (10-04-2022)
#9
If it was me, I would remove the fuel lines from the underside, unbolt the tank fasteners/holders, put a few boards above the spare wheel and slide the tank into the boot.
Remove the EVAP FLANGE and pump the fuel out with my spare electric fuel pump into a waste fluid barrel.
I have a few car lifts and a regular repair shop so it is not that big of a deal. (plus I have done dozens and dozens of Jaguar fuel pumps over the decades)
Remove the EVAP FLANGE and pump the fuel out with my spare electric fuel pump into a waste fluid barrel.
I have a few car lifts and a regular repair shop so it is not that big of a deal. (plus I have done dozens and dozens of Jaguar fuel pumps over the decades)
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Highhorse (10-02-2022)
#10
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Until you remove the fuel, don't roll the motor over, you'll most definitely want to replace the fuel filter following what Bob said. You can pick up an external fuel pump from Amazon for a few bucks (get a descent volume one) and go to the parts store and pick up some fuel line (clear is best for this).
To run the pump, I secure it to a roughly 12x8 piece of 3/8" plywood and I use a 12v drill battery with some backyard wire engineering. Depending on how much fuel you have, it may take a couple of batteries.
You'll want to try to blow out the line going to the engine, you want as fresh a fuel as possible and do what the others have said, to include new plugs. Those never hurt to replace on a sitting car and don't trust pre-gaps, always check your gap.
This may seem like somewhat of an expense up front, but if you try to push any of that fuel through those injectors and that old filter, you'll have more of an expensive time consuming issue on your hands then. I believe your aware of this already or you wouldn't of asked.
To run the pump, I secure it to a roughly 12x8 piece of 3/8" plywood and I use a 12v drill battery with some backyard wire engineering. Depending on how much fuel you have, it may take a couple of batteries.
You'll want to try to blow out the line going to the engine, you want as fresh a fuel as possible and do what the others have said, to include new plugs. Those never hurt to replace on a sitting car and don't trust pre-gaps, always check your gap.
This may seem like somewhat of an expense up front, but if you try to push any of that fuel through those injectors and that old filter, you'll have more of an expensive time consuming issue on your hands then. I believe your aware of this already or you wouldn't of asked.
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motorcarman (10-03-2022)
#11
Until you remove the fuel, don't roll the motor over, you'll most definitely want to replace the fuel filter following what Bob said. You can pick up an external fuel pump from Amazon for a few bucks (get a descent volume one) and go to the parts store and pick up some fuel line (clear is best for this).
To run the pump, I secure it to a roughly 12x8 piece of 3/8" plywood and I use a 12v drill battery with some backyard wire engineering. Depending on how much fuel you have, it may take a couple of batteries.
You'll want to try to blow out the line going to the engine, you want as fresh a fuel as possible and do what the others have said, to include new plugs. Those never hurt to replace on a sitting car and don't trust pre-gaps, always check your gap.
This may seem like somewhat of an expense up front, but if you try to push any of that fuel through those injectors and that old filter, you'll have more of an expensive time consuming issue on your hands then. I believe your aware of this already or you wouldn't of asked.
To run the pump, I secure it to a roughly 12x8 piece of 3/8" plywood and I use a 12v drill battery with some backyard wire engineering. Depending on how much fuel you have, it may take a couple of batteries.
You'll want to try to blow out the line going to the engine, you want as fresh a fuel as possible and do what the others have said, to include new plugs. Those never hurt to replace on a sitting car and don't trust pre-gaps, always check your gap.
This may seem like somewhat of an expense up front, but if you try to push any of that fuel through those injectors and that old filter, you'll have more of an expensive time consuming issue on your hands then. I believe your aware of this already or you wouldn't of asked.
I have some work ahead of me no doubt
I will post pictures when I get it out of the garage. Thanks again guys
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Addicted2boost (10-03-2022)
#12
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MaxSteel61 (10-04-2022)
#13
Good day to you guys here. Thought I would give a progress report on my inherited 1998 Jaguar XJ8.
Okay so I finally got the rear wheel bearing done on the passenger side and removed the old fuel which really wasn't that much in the tank so that was a good thing next when I bought a brand new battery changed all of the fluids all flush the radiator brake fluid etc
So now comes the day to get it out of the garage. As I attempted to crank it it actually surprised me and turned over pretty smooth.
Engine sounded a little rough at first but after a few minutes of running it kind of smooth out and I started to put it in reverse to take it out of the garage and I heard a grinding noise and then I stopped immediately and thought about what I read in the handbook about the air suspension
I saw a couple of videos how a guy had to let his Jaguar warm up and he did a Time lapse video where he showed it raising up
So after letting it run for maybe 15 minutes I went ahead and backed it out came out pretty smooth.
Fill the tires to the proper tire pressure and here we go took her for a drive very easy and slow at first after driving maybe 30 minutes started to give it a little gas that's when I heard the roaring of a lion turns out both front wheel bearings are bad as well so back home we go back up on the jack Jack stands underneath and I'll start tackling the front wheel bearings tomorrow. Oh and by the way the Jaguar has 128,000 mi which is actually not too bad for 1998 Jaguar
Okay so I finally got the rear wheel bearing done on the passenger side and removed the old fuel which really wasn't that much in the tank so that was a good thing next when I bought a brand new battery changed all of the fluids all flush the radiator brake fluid etc
So now comes the day to get it out of the garage. As I attempted to crank it it actually surprised me and turned over pretty smooth.
Engine sounded a little rough at first but after a few minutes of running it kind of smooth out and I started to put it in reverse to take it out of the garage and I heard a grinding noise and then I stopped immediately and thought about what I read in the handbook about the air suspension
I saw a couple of videos how a guy had to let his Jaguar warm up and he did a Time lapse video where he showed it raising up
So after letting it run for maybe 15 minutes I went ahead and backed it out came out pretty smooth.
Fill the tires to the proper tire pressure and here we go took her for a drive very easy and slow at first after driving maybe 30 minutes started to give it a little gas that's when I heard the roaring of a lion turns out both front wheel bearings are bad as well so back home we go back up on the jack Jack stands underneath and I'll start tackling the front wheel bearings tomorrow. Oh and by the way the Jaguar has 128,000 mi which is actually not too bad for 1998 Jaguar
#14
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Nice to hear you got her running, have you checked the trans and differential fluids yet?
In case your not aware, those bearings are pressed. A minimum 20 ton press will be needed to get them out. For the cost of a press, you should be able to find someone to do it...usually a motorcycle or machine shop. You are going to want to expect the need to do the ball joints and bushings...to include the shock tower bushings which are probably crumbling onto the inner fender well.
Here's a couple threads to review... https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...cement-231649/
...building your own spring compressor, the ones I built I gave to nilanium for the cost of shipping for him to pay it forward as well. I don't know if he still has them or not?... https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...joints-176838/
In case your not aware, those bearings are pressed. A minimum 20 ton press will be needed to get them out. For the cost of a press, you should be able to find someone to do it...usually a motorcycle or machine shop. You are going to want to expect the need to do the ball joints and bushings...to include the shock tower bushings which are probably crumbling onto the inner fender well.
Here's a couple threads to review... https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...cement-231649/
...building your own spring compressor, the ones I built I gave to nilanium for the cost of shipping for him to pay it forward as well. I don't know if he still has them or not?... https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...joints-176838/
Last edited by Highhorse; 10-13-2022 at 04:26 PM.
#15
#16
Nice to hear you got her running, have you checked the trans and differential fluids yet?
In case your not aware, those bearings are pressed. A minimum 20 ton press will be needed to get them out. For the cost of a press, you should be able to find someone to do it...usually a motorcycle or machine shop. You are going to want to expect the need to do the ball joints and bushings...to include the shock tower bushings which are probably crumbling onto the inner fender well.
Here's a couple threads to review... https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...cement-231649/
...building your own spring compressor, the ones I built I gave to nilanium for the cost of shipping for him to pay it forward as well. I don't know if he still has them or not?... https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...joints-176838/
In case your not aware, those bearings are pressed. A minimum 20 ton press will be needed to get them out. For the cost of a press, you should be able to find someone to do it...usually a motorcycle or machine shop. You are going to want to expect the need to do the ball joints and bushings...to include the shock tower bushings which are probably crumbling onto the inner fender well.
Here's a couple threads to review... https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...cement-231649/
...building your own spring compressor, the ones I built I gave to nilanium for the cost of shipping for him to pay it forward as well. I don't know if he still has them or not?... https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...joints-176838/
And as a matter of fact I did notice when checking out the engine compartment that there are two rubber components on each side of the vehicle rubber bushings were crumbling.
No doubt they'll have to be replaced pronto. So I'm just taking my time trying to be thorough so I don't miss anything
Okay I've got some related threads to read through so let me stop jabbering!
#17
Addicted2boost actually that was the next major inspection I was planning on doing.
I have a friend who has a small shop with a lift that way the whole underneath can be observed and documented for potential problems.
Thanks for helping me out on my checklist
#18
I get what your saying. However, just search “Jaguar timing chain tensioner failure” and that should give you a little bit of insight. Just keep in mind that we are all here to help as there's no trolls (other than Highhorse....😂 kidding!) here.
My daughters car is a 98’ XJR with 273k miles on the original engine with the tensioners replaced a long time ago. Maintenance and repair as soon as possible is key.
The only other words of warning is to get the main pressure regulating (spool) valve in the transmission valve body replaced ASAP and replace the water pump and upgrade the thermostat housing with an aluminum one. Keep a gallon of water in the trunk as these engines aren’t tolerant to overheating. All of the plastic cooling system components (excluding radiator) need replaced as age and mileage are against it.
My daughters car is a 98’ XJR with 273k miles on the original engine with the tensioners replaced a long time ago. Maintenance and repair as soon as possible is key.
The only other words of warning is to get the main pressure regulating (spool) valve in the transmission valve body replaced ASAP and replace the water pump and upgrade the thermostat housing with an aluminum one. Keep a gallon of water in the trunk as these engines aren’t tolerant to overheating. All of the plastic cooling system components (excluding radiator) need replaced as age and mileage are against it.
Last edited by Addicted2boost; 10-13-2022 at 09:11 PM.
#19
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Don't let this give you a bad feeling about Jags, your learning about 20 yrs issues in one lesson. Plus keep in mind, yours is 24 yrs old, she needs some lovin'. Addicted takes that term a little to literally when it comes to these cars...
What Addicted is alluding to is this...
Jaguar originally put in these plastic tensioners (which crack and split), then replaced them with another type plastic tensioner (which cracked and split) before finally in '02 putting in metal tensioners. Any kits you find now have the metal ones.
Note the guide cracking as well. If you find this scenario with your guides and see missing pieces, you'll need to drop the oil pan (which isn't bad to do this anyways) and clean out the oil pickup. That especially includes thoroughly running your finger around the inside that pickup the clean out any of those pieces or obstructions.
The complete instructions (with pics) for replacement of the tensioners, chains and guides is in the Sticky- "How To" section at the top of this forum from blackonyx. Its about a 14 hr job. But that said, you can do the other things Addicted mentioned and also the water pump. Those also originally came with plastic impellers which notably failed.
What Addicted is alluding to is this...
Jaguar originally put in these plastic tensioners (which crack and split), then replaced them with another type plastic tensioner (which cracked and split) before finally in '02 putting in metal tensioners. Any kits you find now have the metal ones.
Note the guide cracking as well. If you find this scenario with your guides and see missing pieces, you'll need to drop the oil pan (which isn't bad to do this anyways) and clean out the oil pickup. That especially includes thoroughly running your finger around the inside that pickup the clean out any of those pieces or obstructions.
The complete instructions (with pics) for replacement of the tensioners, chains and guides is in the Sticky- "How To" section at the top of this forum from blackonyx. Its about a 14 hr job. But that said, you can do the other things Addicted mentioned and also the water pump. Those also originally came with plastic impellers which notably failed.
#20