Thanks for the diagram Jim, 2nd link doesn't work though, but I'm sure I can find the info on here somewhere.

 

Swick:
The two pugs you had to undo for the thermostat housing are for the knock sensors. I would look very carfully at them for misalignment or a broken wire. It just seems like a bad coincidence that a KS would fail just after yiou worked on their wiring. On the other hand, as I recall. they seem a little fragile where the wire comes out of the top. See the BoomerfromBoston post about KS availabilit if that is not one you have already been directed to.

 

I had the same thought this morning, new day, fresh brain.... thats absolutely correct. I pushed them in tighter, message went away, car drove fine. Disconnected one, car did the 30 mph dance all over again. So I zip tied that one together (on my video thats the one that I can not mount on the new housing). After I zip tied it I took the car for a drive, every now and again the restricted performance light would blink on and quickly shut off. I will probably give the connections a dab of grease and try to find a way to stabalize them. Big sigh of relief having pin-pointed the problem though.

 

Great! some times the wire can pull the contact piece out of position and make the connector hard to get seated. If that is it, gently pull the contact back in place with some needle nose pliers and push in on the WIRE as you snap them back togehter. I would get the codes reset (disconnecting the battery WILL NOT do it) then drive it about 100 miles and check that it has finished the OBD drive cycle (p-1111) and go from there. Good luck.

 

Use a small tool and make the connections tighter adding grease is not a fix.

 

What can I do to make connections tighter on the female side?

 

sOUDS LIKE TO ME THAT THE TIMMING CHAIN IS THE PROBLEM

 

I had that thought early on in diagnosing, but it is just a bad connection on a knock sensor (which does affect timing). The knock sensor basically listens to the engine for noise and makes necessary corrections to make it run correct (i.e, adjust timing). There is a video on this thread of how it works.

 

Drive what exactly?

Make, model, year etc?

 

Hi Norri
Ricco927 profile -about me - shows 1998 XJ8.

What timing chains are you asking about (Secondary timing chains or both (Primary and Secondary)?

Here is the same question posted on the internet by another 98 XJ8 owner (Where do i find the crankshaft timing marks?)
Here is the posted answer:
The 4.0L V8 has no alignment marks on the crankshaft or camshafts. Engine timing is achieved by installing the Crankshaft Setting Peg (303-531) and Camshaft Locking Tool (303-530). With the crankshaft setting peg in position, ensure the timing flat on each camshaft is in the uppermost position before installing camshaft locking tool. Variable camshaft timing unit may also be referred to as Variable Valve Timing (VVT) unit.

NOTE:Special Tools Required: Crankshaft Setting Peg (303-531), Camshaft Locking Tool (303-530), Chain Tensioning Tool (303-532), Primary Chain Wedge (303-533) and Variable Camshaft Timing Oil Control Unit Setting Tool (303-654).

Jim Lombardi

 

Ricco - Check the sticky notes for the JTIS manual. There is an exact process, with specific tools that must be followed.

 

Hi Ricco927
I moved this posting to its own new thread. Ricco look at the information in the new tread.

Here is the new Timing Chains Forum Threads & Tech Info thread weblink:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/j...93/#post386746

Jim Lombardi