Yes, thank you very much.

... anyone got spare brackets lying around?

 

see how the following listing calls out the SC motor:
(edit - other sites will also show other applications, oh well)



Denso Fuel Pump

$106 at JCWHITNEY

The Airtex E2471 is also listed for up to 2003 depending on the site.

 

Yep, that's the site and pumps that I ordered. But, when talking to Denso, they say that the part number (951-0008) does not come up for a 2002 XJR. However, I didn't give Denso the original part number (JLM 20756) for cross reference, so these pumps may work just fine. As I've stated before, my biggest concern is using butt connectors to splice in the leads on the Densos; I'm just not a fan of butt connectors, and especially using them in this hard-to-get-to location. I'd rather solder the connection and put the shrink tubing around it. But, then comes the question of the shrink tube degenerating while immeresed in fuel, so the Elastomeric tubing is called for.

I checked out the Airtex pumps, and they appear to have the same connector as the Densos, but come with a lead that plugs into the original wiring. I would be much more satisfied using those leads.

So, in my opinion (for what it's worth), I think that we're all on the right track with these different sources for pumps. The Airtex's and the Densos and anything else mentioned will more than likely work just fine with a few mods.

The C2N 3866 pumps that I ordered will be here today, so I'll let "all ya'll" know how those work out.

 

Gus - yea, come on over, I still need to do the front suspension when I get done with these fuel pumps !! And, it's a gorgeous drive, especially when you head west out of Pueblo, CO !!

 

Here are some pics of an original 1998 XJ8 pump and a NEW Airtex E2471 pump.

I had to trim the original upper and lower rubber retainers with a razor and scissors to get the proper fit. The electrical connector on the Airtex is a little larger and the bottom fuel pick-up area has some different casting patterns.

bob gauff

 

That's a lot of corrosion on the old pump. My old ones came out really clean with no corrosion. Is there any way to get a hold of a couple of those leads that come with the Airtex? I think that I'm going to hold on to theses Denso pumps for next time, and those leads appear to fit.

 

The screenshot is "allegedly" not of a 951-0008 but instead W0133-1841263. So you may want to rethink keeping the pumps. Anyways, "next time" is hopefully a long time away.

The information is not verified by Denso, and the differences are unknown, but applications go like this:

 

yea, ordered right there off of the website ... when the pumps got here, the box had 951-0008 on it.

 

I thought you had missed the small print for the part number.

Anyways, the "in stock" checkmark is not there.

So, they may have crossed the number to ship.

But, if you ordered one number and got another, then no restocking should apply if you choose to go that route.

Can we get some pictures to add to this thread?

 

The reason the pump is corroded is because the car had a faulty alternator and it sat for a year. The fuel filler area 'scupper' had leaves and debris in the drain hole so water filled the area. The fuel cap seal was bad so the water flooded the tank and corroded the pump. If the customer had the alternator problem resolved earlier, then the car might have been running all this time!!

I have another XJ8 in the shop now for an inop fuel pump. The cooling system was leaking from the thermostat housing so the car was parked for a year. The fuel filler area 'scupper' drain was clogged so a faulty cap allowed water into the tank and now the tank is RUSTED along with the pump and retainer bracket. Unfortunately this tank is not useable so a good used tank is needed.

My advise is to CLEAN THE DRAIN IN THE FUEL FILLER SCUPPER.

bob gauff

 

I have no intention of leaving my car sitting for any length of time ... And because the thermostat housing was leaking !? My goodness, that's about a 20 minute job with a beer in one hand. Unlees the housing is cracked, then you might have to put your beer down.

Did you see my PM? The question is: how do you get the fuel sender out of the bracket without having to take out the little screw at the bottom, and without breaking anything ?

Mark
hispeed42

 

With the holidays I will stay close to home, but I will drink a beer with you when you come back to DC. Deal?

 

The one armed man respectfully disagrees

Even in daily driving leaves and bits of debris seem to have to be picked out at every fillup.

Now I keep a folded microfibre waxing cloth tucked over the cap.

 

Gus - deal; you're place or mine?

plums - I've done it before. When I did my timing chains, I also had the SC rebuilt, and it came back painted 'hammered silver.' Well, that didn't match the intercoolers and the SC top, so I bead blasted those pieces and painted them the same coloor as the SC. While I was there, I did the cross-over pipe and thermostat housing, so all of those pieces are hammered silver. Started it up, and grabbed a cold one. Oh wait, the thermostat housing had a leak; darnitol! Took off the housing and it had a little bit of paint, so cleaned it and put it back on. 20 minutes while holding the beer ! Well, I might have had to put it down once or twice, but not out of reach !!

Here's a few pics ...

 

If it is after Feb/Mar my house should be finished and we can try it then. Of course this is dependent on you get this fuel pump thing done by then and my builder finishing his job..

 

Sounds good, Gus. I WILL have this job done this weekend!! Got to, cause rebuilding the front suspension was the first thing on the list until the fuel pumps went out. So, I have all of those parts waiting to be installed. Then, a buddy with another XJR-100 is wanting to do his timing chains, KenneBell SC kit, and cat-back exhaust. So, there's another project. And, I need to get ready to move. Gonna be a busy couple of months. Then, travelling back east in the middle of February!? Ha !! That's going to be a blast, in my XJR-100. With touring tires. I'm thinking I-10 to I-95 now; we'll see what the weather looks like when the time comes.

I'll have my car, so I'll cruise out to OC; when it's safe to do so ...

 

I see that the sender is different for the 2001MY onward and I can't remember how it is attached to the tank. (been too long if I did one)

bob gauff

 

I got it out about 10 minutes after I posted the comment. It was way too easy; I was expecting a little bit more of a challenge, considering some of the other engineering on these cars (like the fuel lines into the tank).

Check out post 36 in this thread. Gus put in an article about changing fuel pumps in an XKR. On page three, there's a couple of good pics of the mounting of the sender. It's the same as on an XJR. All you have to do is pull the finger loop away from the brackett, and the tab about an inch down releases. The sender then slides up out of the brackett. This also can be done with a beer in one hand ...

Mark

 

@hispeed, why are you doing the chains?

the humble Airtex pump has a bloody facebook page, currently $70 on Amazon, might just grab a pair, just in case....
Black Friday, Cheapest Airtex E2471 Fuel Pump | Facebook

 

Sean - I did the chains three years ago at 100k miles. It was recommended by a trusted source, and I didn't know if I had the upgraded tensioners or not. Now, I know that I do.