And once you hit the landing page, there will be others as low as $63.91 + $6.00 shipping.

 

Interesting..... I replaced my pump a few months back and even after I tried making some special tools to release the fuel lines, I *still* wasn't able to get them to release... wondering if I had the same offset seal.

I managed to manipulate the tank into the trunk and changed it there.... definitely not the preferred approach :-)

 

Ron - if you felt some "sponginess" while trying to insert the tool, then the seal is/was probably offset. Also, I sprayed a bunch of WD40 in there to get the built-up crud loose. While waiting for the pumps, I removed the seal and repositioned it so that I won't have this problem again.

 

I'm done with the pumps, other than re-installing the trim work. Car runs great, but now there's a check engine light. Probably from trying to start it for 20 minutes with bad fuel pumps. I'll give it a few trips to clear, then go from there.

plums - how's your job coming along?

Mark

 

Kudos to you!

 

The CEL is likely to clear in a few trips.

Meanwhile back on the ranch... my job has gone completely pear shaped.

The one man shop told me in the third phone call that there was no reason to call him and he would call when he had something to say.

That phone call came after I had gone to the shop last Thursday afternoon and not found him there and left a voice mail. I popped the trunk while I was there and saw that all the relays had been substituted. Including number 6 which should be blank. This of course is after the original letter left with the car, and the first phone call which should have left no doubt that power supplied directly to the fuel pump wires did not spin either pump. The power wires and ground wires had been individually proved out to the tank connector with 0.1 ohms or less resistance on each wire.

Conversing to an out of town shop last night about the availabilty of pumps led to the suggestion that with two pumps going out almost simultaneously that perhaps the fuel filter was clogged and the backpressure is not allowing the pumps to spin. Anyone feel free to chime in if they have seen this. Of course, it doesn't jive with the high resistance readings across the pumps which should still be < 10 ohms.

This is not the way things should be progressing.

 

@hipseed42
Personally I believe it is always best to check what code you have with the CEL, you never know if something new has popped up. If all is ok and was proven to be related to the starting so is not actual anymore, then iirc after 5 drive cylces (or already 5 engine starts, but am unsure) it should go away.

@Plums,
Have done some pressure checks and the pumps will certainly turn if the fuel line would be blocked.

 

Thanks for the confirmation. It helps to be able to throw that theory out.

 

plums - you need to get your car out that dude's hands; but, you already know that. Maybe get a few friends together so that you can get it in your garage?

Why is he doing all this crap? The fuel pumps are worn out; replace them!

My diagnosis went something like this: a few months ago, I started the car and it stalled after about 1.5 seconds. It did this twice, then fired up and ran fine. A few weeks later, the same thing. I also noticed that the idle would fluctuate between 500 - 600 rpms. That's about the time that I went, "Uh-oh." The car did this a couple more times through October. One Friday afternoon when leaving work, it did the run for 1.5 seconds then stall thing, and wouldn't keep running at all. Called for a tow and took it home. Called a buddy with an XJR that had to have his pumps replaced about six months ago. Told him my symptoms and he said that was the same thing his car did. That confirmed my diagnosis of worn out fuel pumps.

Now it runs fine and the idle is stable at 600. On to the front suspension ...

 

The why is a mystery. It must be a personality conflict.

The downhill part of the drive is about 5 car lengths. One thought is to use a tow rope with another car behind to keep it from rolling too fast with no power boost on the brakes. Too bad the tow driver and I never remembered that his truck had a recovery winch in addition to the hyraulic lift. Now it would be a second tow call.

Can anyone with experience comment in great excruciating detail on how bad the brakes get when there is no vacuum boost on this particular car? How good is the handbrake when the car is rolling if both have to be used?

Rolling on the flat is one thing, but the drive goes down 12 feet in those 5 car lengths with a concrete wall at the end. It's got to go slow the whole way down or too much momentum is going to get built up to stop in time with unboosted brakes.

 

Love this!! ..... I'm going to take mine off next year and chrome them up and put the Supercharger in RED writing. The chrome paint I use is excellent

 

No worries then, the concrete wall will stop it.

My best guess would be that the combination of your handbrake and normal brake should do the trick. Without the booster it’s very hard to brake, so that alone wouldn't be enough.

My wife is going to kill me, so please don't tell this further; you could always use house hold appliances, ie a strong vacuum cleaner on the vacuum line of the brake booster. Just a thought...

 

Sure ... and draw attention to a stealth operation.

The reverse tow with a friend in a running car above to ease the car down seems like the best approach. No crashing into walls, and no loud tow truck winch.

The perfect gas dump for the 3/4 tankful is going to be his tank.

 

Sounds more sensible ;-)

 

It will stop from a gentle roll W/O the engine. But you will need to stand on the pedal. (my FP failed when parked on a 1:3, and I had no option but to roll down to the tow truck parked on the sea wall at the bottom)

But the second vehicle idea is good.

Just make sure that you have worked things out so that he is always on the level and never in a position to be following you down the hill.

Most embarrassing to stuff the concrete wall with your front end and then have your mate ram you up the jacksy.

 

Thanks for the confirmation.

1:3 is *really* steep.

Did you also use the handbrake? In the past, just setting it in a parking lot seemed to take a really strong pull.

There is no choice but for the helper vehicle to follow down the hill as there is not enough room on the flat. Fortunately he has a great deal of experience with this type of stuff back in the UK and he keeps his car well maintained.

 

The CEL cleared on the fourth engine start ...

My driveway is uphill and I would estimate a 2:1 slope. My tow truck driver backed in to a good position, raised the bed and moved it back a little, then I got in and let it roll right into the garage. Got it stopped in a perfect position and didn't hit the washing machine. The brakes were spongy, but worked; didn't even have to use the handbrake. It sounds like your route to the garage is a little more of a challenge.

After reading and posting in this thread, you should be able to have the job done rather quickly. Did you decide on pumps?

 

That's good news on the CEL clearing.

The poor long suffering spouses. First, Avos with the vacuum cleaner, then your washing machine at risk.

Your route was probably equivalent in difficulty depending on the slope of the bed. But, you might have had some vacuum reserve left.

Pumps are going to be Denso. It's nerve wracking not knowing whether it's going to be pumps or harness. Still, since the tank is going to be open, probably a good idea to just replace them. If the job is done here, the harness will be a full replacement fabricated the same way as some of the hermetically sealed bulkhead pass throughs used on a F-16 and in the space program. It just won't be a purchased item because the companies that make the certified harnesses want hundreds and thousands for a short harness pass through.

If the job is done here, it has to be a stealth operation in the dead of night. The tensioners got done that way

It may take longer to extract the car from the garage depending on the situation.

 

Yes I kept the button pressed and tugged for all I was worth. Distance for the descent approx 200yds! I did it in stages with stops, when I felt momentum getting the better of me. Tow trailer driver said it was too steep for him to risk loading on the hill. Your distance is only short, take care you should be OK. (location pic to follow).

Back on topic, I like your idea of adapting a switching system between the pumps. If you do go down that route, please provide a write-up, I'm sure that others will be interested.

 

Must be a first for a Jaguar forum ... someone trying to hold the speed down

Ahh ... the switches. Here's the background for everyone else on the idea:

There will be a circuit schematic published "any day now"

New fuel pumps are in the Fedex pipeline right now. Ordered 03:00 Nov 30, scheduled for delivery morning of Dec 30.

DENSO 950-0183 from rockauto at $119 each kit.

The special thing to note about that part number as opposed to the -0008 is that it comes with the correct fuel pump screen. It is listed as "direct replacement" rather than the more generic "first time fit" kits. The inclusion of the screens makes it a better deal. The earlier listing has been edited to reflect this.

The kit is an older catalog number and is hard to find because it is a specific application limited to Jaguar. Denso is probably phasing it out in favour of the -0008 generic kit. It does not come up in most online catalogue searches. Another big parts site lists it as clearance at $80 but has zero stock. Great price ... if you could actually buy it.