Replacing fuel pump on 2002 XJR
#81
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I just replaced both fuel pumps and filter on my 03 XJR. The vehicle appears to be running fine. It starts up right away, runs as smooth as it ever has and idles fine when cold and normal temp. For some reason, my check engine light came on as soon as the new pumps were installed. I'm getting a p0453 OBD code (Evaporative Emission System Pressure Sensor/Switch High). Any ideas on what could cause this to happen?
#82
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The Pressure Sensor switch is in the evaporative loss assymbly; that was the black plug-in when you removed the tank. I can't imagine anything that would cause that just by replacing the pumps, unless it didn't get hooked up properly on the install. And, I can't imagine anyone that takes on this project not re-installing that connection properly. Or the hose to the canisters ...
I would check the hoses between the canisters, and the evap hose to the tank. You were looking at this while under the car removing the fuel lines. It was the tube that runs along the bottom rail of the differential mount. Pretty simple to remove and replace the hoses with 3/4" fuel line. The hose to the fuel tank is a little trickier as it routes up from the left canister and has a couple of bends to avoid some brackets and such. You'll have to find some plumbing pieces to adapt the hose to a shape that kind of matches the original hose, then cut it long enough to reach the canister without fouling on the brackets and not pulling the snap-in plug. (This will make sense once you get in there and take a look.)
Wear some latex gloves while doing this; my hoses were deteriorated to the point that they pretty much fell apart when touched. That stuff was hard to scrub out of my hands!! And, in that condition, they created a vacuum leak that caused CELs and restricted performance when I jumped on the throttle.
Mark
I would check the hoses between the canisters, and the evap hose to the tank. You were looking at this while under the car removing the fuel lines. It was the tube that runs along the bottom rail of the differential mount. Pretty simple to remove and replace the hoses with 3/4" fuel line. The hose to the fuel tank is a little trickier as it routes up from the left canister and has a couple of bends to avoid some brackets and such. You'll have to find some plumbing pieces to adapt the hose to a shape that kind of matches the original hose, then cut it long enough to reach the canister without fouling on the brackets and not pulling the snap-in plug. (This will make sense once you get in there and take a look.)
Wear some latex gloves while doing this; my hoses were deteriorated to the point that they pretty much fell apart when touched. That stuff was hard to scrub out of my hands!! And, in that condition, they created a vacuum leak that caused CELs and restricted performance when I jumped on the throttle.
Mark
#83
#84
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
timeline notes:
I went to the shop last night to see if the car had moved from its resting spot with the intention of calling in the morning to make arrangments to tow it away.
Surprisingly, the owner was just leaving the shop.
Had a very short conversation in which he was informed that new pumps were in my possession and that extra care would be required in extracting the car from its position in contact with another of the cars in the lot. But, he did say the car would be "on the chopping block first thing in the morning."
To my suggestion that I call in the morning, he told me that nothing would be gained from that, and to wait until later, "... much later".
So far, to this minute there has been no call, no written or verbal communication of the scope or cost of work.
Not good.
I went to the shop last night to see if the car had moved from its resting spot with the intention of calling in the morning to make arrangments to tow it away.
Surprisingly, the owner was just leaving the shop.
Had a very short conversation in which he was informed that new pumps were in my possession and that extra care would be required in extracting the car from its position in contact with another of the cars in the lot. But, he did say the car would be "on the chopping block first thing in the morning."
To my suggestion that I call in the morning, he told me that nothing would be gained from that, and to wait until later, "... much later".
So far, to this minute there has been no call, no written or verbal communication of the scope or cost of work.
Not good.
Last edited by plums; 12-05-2011 at 11:11 AM.
#86
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
![Wink](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Never did get a call yesterday
![Frown](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/frown.gif)
#87
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I have completed the installation of the two pumps and now all is well, I had a couple of problems and I want to call attention to them so no one has to repeat my problems. My arms are still sore from getting the lines out. My first problem was that the first removal tool did not expand the clips enough to get the lines to release due to being too small in diameter. I went and borrowed the removal tool from the service manager at the dealer after several hours of pain and frustration. I then had to get two hands on the lines by reaching around both sides on the differential. I remover the emergency brake cable for more room for the left arm. I had to pull very hard on the lines to get them to release after spraying them with WD-40. I don't think Jaguar's little plastic tool was perfect, but at least it worked. It too should have been a little larger in diameter to spread the clips just a little more and still go in. The design is so simple that there should be no reason for the lines not just dropping right out with just a little force. I can understand why people on this fourm have had success making their own tool. The two new pumps were an exact replacement and fit the rubber and the strainer perfectly with one very note worthy exception. The new pump's pipe was without the barb on the end to keep the gas line from slipping off. It was the same diameter but shorter by the length of the barb. I was paying attention to the pump fitting in the rubber base and fitting the bracket and strainer perfectly in place and didn't notice the missing barb. The connectors fit perfectly. When inspecting my work I found that I could pull the gas lines off easily. I relocated the clamps as low as possible and tightened the clamps as much as I could without stripping the teeth on the clamps. I was working down in the tank and the sharp edges of the tank were dangerous. After two weeks on the road one gas line popped off in the tank and I had to do the job all over again. This time I bought a new line removal tool from O'Rilleys (Lisle 3700) and it was the same as the Jaguar tool, good but not great. I had purchased the pumps from Rock Auto (Performance Electric P2226k). They were useful after I filled little groves all around the brass fuel pipe with a small three sided file so that the pipe looked like a screw thread when I was done, rather than a smooth slick surface without the necessary barb. The price was right but the pump was wrong! I removed the "Y" tubbing from the tank and attached the two pumps on my work bench so I could test that my modification made it impossible to to pull the hoses loose.
Thanks to all those that have given advice on this forum, what a great help!
Thanks to all those that have given advice on this forum, what a great help!
Last edited by erniejenson; 12-10-2011 at 01:21 PM. Reason: spelling
#88
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
That story almost sounds as bad as one of my projects a couple of years ago; I'll have to tell ya'll about it sometime ... ![Icon Beerchug](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_beerchug.gif)
The part about the smooth outlet tips is something that I never mentioned above as I didn't get that far with the Densos, but they had the same tips. The ones that I eventually installed had the nipple on them, but I still tightened the hell out of 'em.
![Icon Beerchug](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_beerchug.gif)
The part about the smooth outlet tips is something that I never mentioned above as I didn't get that far with the Densos, but they had the same tips. The ones that I eventually installed had the nipple on them, but I still tightened the hell out of 'em.
#89
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hopefully, there are some people who know:
How often do the hoses end up breaking? The shop is now saying there is a delay waiting for a new hose. From the description it would be the hose labelled #2 in the attached picture.
If someone has the EPC installed, how much is list on it?
How often do the hoses end up breaking? The shop is now saying there is a delay waiting for a new hose. From the description it would be the hose labelled #2 in the attached picture.
If someone has the EPC installed, how much is list on it?
Last edited by plums; 12-14-2011 at 12:44 PM.
#90
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Not sure how many fail but I found this TSB http://www.jagrepair.com/images/TSB/...por%20Odor.pdf and thought it might help.
#91
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Actually, I went back to the fuel pump replacement pdf on your site.
The photos show that it is pipes connected with short hose stubs at the evaporator flange. If it is one of those, you have to wonder what all the drama is about. True, the largest hose seems to transition diameters. I cannot know with seeing it in the flesh to see if ordinary hose can be forced onto the steel pipe.
Or, if it is further down ... did they know that joint is a quick coupling.
The photos show that it is pipes connected with short hose stubs at the evaporator flange. If it is one of those, you have to wonder what all the drama is about. True, the largest hose seems to transition diameters. I cannot know with seeing it in the flesh to see if ordinary hose can be forced onto the steel pipe.
Or, if it is further down ... did they know that joint is a quick coupling.
#92
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Took the bus and walked through the rain to see what was up.
And it is the largest hose on the evaporator flange that connects the nipple to a pipe. About three inches long.
The problem is that the hose has a different diameter at each end. They split it because after trying to force the the smaller end of the hose onto the larger diameter pipe it would not go any further.
Well, here is how it was done in the pdf posted at Gus's site:
![](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachments/xj-xj8-xjr-x308-27/14986d1323899555-replacing-fuel-pump-2002-xjr-fuel-flange.jpg)
It is the hose at 6 o'clock. And it was left on the larger pipe and pulled away from the nipple. The opposite of the picture.
Jaguar wants $100.00 for that hose.
sigh ...
And it is the largest hose on the evaporator flange that connects the nipple to a pipe. About three inches long.
The problem is that the hose has a different diameter at each end. They split it because after trying to force the the smaller end of the hose onto the larger diameter pipe it would not go any further.
Well, here is how it was done in the pdf posted at Gus's site:
![](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachments/xj-xj8-xjr-x308-27/14986d1323899555-replacing-fuel-pump-2002-xjr-fuel-flange.jpg)
It is the hose at 6 o'clock. And it was left on the larger pipe and pulled away from the nipple. The opposite of the picture.
Jaguar wants $100.00 for that hose.
sigh ...
Last edited by plums; 12-16-2011 at 12:10 PM.
#93
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You are telling me that they “Jaguar” wants $100 for a 3in section of rubber hose? I think you need to check around for a salvage or a hose supply company that can remanufacture the hose.
I am attaching a list of the ones I found I used “custom rubber hoses”
Rubber Hoses
Custom Molding: The Rubber Group
Rubber Molding, Rubber Tubing & Hoses, Custom Rubber Products: Greene Rubber Company: Woburn, MA
I am attaching a list of the ones I found I used “custom rubber hoses”
Rubber Hoses
Custom Molding: The Rubber Group
Rubber Molding, Rubber Tubing & Hoses, Custom Rubber Products: Greene Rubber Company: Woburn, MA
#94
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
That's what I was told.
Apparently the problem is the two different inner diameters at the two ends.
At the time, I suggested using a heat gun to soften one end to get it over the pipe nipple.
Then I thought about aviation silicone fuel hose which has more give due to the silicone content.
I cannot see that hose giving away under force before cracking the blue plastic nipple part. Yet, the blue plastic parts are completely intact. Imagine that.
Apparently the problem is the two different inner diameters at the two ends.
At the time, I suggested using a heat gun to soften one end to get it over the pipe nipple.
Then I thought about aviation silicone fuel hose which has more give due to the silicone content.
I cannot see that hose giving away under force before cracking the blue plastic nipple part. Yet, the blue plastic parts are completely intact. Imagine that.
#95
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You do realize you are dealing with a mechanic that has NEVER seen one of these cars before!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I have done DOZENS of EVAP flange removals to replace fuel pumps and have not needed to do more than slide the SMALL hoses a few centimeters to the side and LEAVE THE LARGE ONE ON UNTIL THE EVAP FLANGE IS TILTED AND REMOVED.
The flange gets displaced with the hose STILL ON THE EVAP FLANGE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The lock ring is removed and the flange is FREE.
I use silicone spray and Teflon rubber grease to move the hoses a little in each direction.
Where are you located???????
If you are in the Dallas/Fort Worth area I will rescue your car before it is damaged farther.
STOP THE MADNESS with this crazy shop!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
bob gauff
I have done DOZENS of EVAP flange removals to replace fuel pumps and have not needed to do more than slide the SMALL hoses a few centimeters to the side and LEAVE THE LARGE ONE ON UNTIL THE EVAP FLANGE IS TILTED AND REMOVED.
The flange gets displaced with the hose STILL ON THE EVAP FLANGE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The lock ring is removed and the flange is FREE.
I use silicone spray and Teflon rubber grease to move the hoses a little in each direction.
Where are you located???????
If you are in the Dallas/Fort Worth area I will rescue your car before it is damaged farther.
STOP THE MADNESS with this crazy shop!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
bob gauff
#96
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If I was anywhere close I would have made it a point to make a social visit by now.
The method you describe is exactly how *I* would have done it. The other option, at least from looking at pictures is to pull the pipe out of the hose using the wiggle room afforded by the pipe run.
JTIS says "3. Disconnect vapor hose(s) from flange assembly." It says nothing about trying to push the hose further up the pipe.
The thing is, the "crack" looks more like a slit to me ... centered and straight along the top 2 fifths of the hose nearest the flange. Looks to me like someone decided they were going to cut and replace. Well, *I* wasn't the one that made that decision.
The shop has been previously recommended on JF. The time may come soon that a caveat is attached to those recommendations.
I was all ready to go on Friday to tow it out. But, left it until Monday to avoid interrupting the usual Friday afternoon mayhem found in most shops. On Monday, too late ... car on hoist. My bad.
The method you describe is exactly how *I* would have done it. The other option, at least from looking at pictures is to pull the pipe out of the hose using the wiggle room afforded by the pipe run.
JTIS says "3. Disconnect vapor hose(s) from flange assembly." It says nothing about trying to push the hose further up the pipe.
The thing is, the "crack" looks more like a slit to me ... centered and straight along the top 2 fifths of the hose nearest the flange. Looks to me like someone decided they were going to cut and replace. Well, *I* wasn't the one that made that decision.
The shop has been previously recommended on JF. The time may come soon that a caveat is attached to those recommendations.
I was all ready to go on Friday to tow it out. But, left it until Monday to avoid interrupting the usual Friday afternoon mayhem found in most shops. On Monday, too late ... car on hoist. My bad.
#97
#98
#99
#100
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If that is the case then you have your car in the wrong place. I would still try.