Hello guys my fuel pump unfortunately died after 4 years not bad for Delphi fuel pump but I will get denso this time . Anyway I don't want to pull the tank I want to pull the pump from inside the car now my question is can I cut that metal with cordless Dremel?? Or I will need other tools ? I'm not sure how thick is that metal and what cutter will cut properly

 

I think its about a 16 gauge, any carbide disc will cut it. But the thinner the disc the less friction and quicker the cut.
I use the EZ Change Out mandrel with the 1 1/2" disc (which get expensive but work great) on my Milwaukee. I do a lot of metal cutting with it on door frames about the same gauge.

 

I used a pair of sheet metal snips from Lowes. That metal is surprisingly thin.

 

Hopefully no much friction sparks and fuel bad mix

 

It is a sealed system afterall...lol

 

It is SUPPOSED to be a sealed system.
The lack of reported incident in this forum would seem to
indicate that these methods are adequate,,,however, my
aversion to destroying the integrity of the metal frame would
never permit me to go this route on the Duchess.

 

So, the posted pic, is that yours or just one you borrowed to show your intentions? Because that one wholeheartedly appears to have been die ground, ..clean cuts. I don't see any warpage or fraying from the use of snips.

Your prowess to not permit you to go that route is saying your going to pull the tank into the boot?

 

My experience is pulling the tank out the boot with the rear end out to sell from my parts car. Disconnecting the two fuel lines (one snap fit and one screw fit) was even a pain with the rear end out. Can't imagine how much of a pain with rear end in. Dropping rear end in not difficult or time consuming. Careful with the fuel lines. They are crazy expensive to replace.

 

I used that photo in a Jag-Lovers forum post regarding "out the top" removal technique. I cut it out with abrasive wheels. No way would I remove the tank. I covered the top of tank to avoid sparks directly on the tank and hoses....It's discussed in the link.

2002 XJR no start - X300 - Jag-lovers Forums

 

Removing the tank really isn't that bad. Getting the rear shelf out is no breeze either. This is quite frankly butchery and I couldnt feel right about doing it this way. And no, I didn't slot my rear supercharger bolt hole either.

 

If Jaguar/Ford had designed the fuel system such that pumps didn't fail every 40.000 miles I would absolutely agree with you. As it is, the next person who has to replace fuel pumps at the ridiculously low interval will marvel at the brilliant access panel.... especially if they're a geezer and it's 100 degrees in the garage. Having done the shelf removal once, it will be a doddle the next time.

 

it’s a bandit’s answer! Good luck to the ‘access panel’ people, there’s the rear screen that cracks at light pressure, a brake light assembly that falls off just looking at it! Then the engineering integrity that’s compromised. I couldn’t do it, it’s just wrong.
there’s enough wiggle room to angle the tank forward being extra careful with the lines. If you know someone with thin arms just disconnect both. It’s an easy job, why complicate it?

 

Hey Sean...Thank you for your insight. That looks like an acceptable way to access the pump.
Do you have any insight as to the methods to handle the fuel lines safely? Some have reported
they have broken the plastic connecting tube in trying to remove the fuel lines.

 

I don't totally agree with this. My car has over 106 000ml and presumably still original pumps. No noise whatsoever from the tank. I'm sure there were cost issue when engineers had to move separate tanks from the crash and rust area to more resiliant place in the both areas without re designin rear end completely again. Why it is not a plastic tank that I don't understand.

 

I don't agree with his post either, but have you tested your secondary fuel pump to see if its working? that seems to be a common failure for the supercharged cars as it only runs sporadically.

 

Another here who thinks 40k miles for a pump life is nonsense.

Mine got changed at 77k, the primary worked fine but the secondary was seized when I got the car. Stupid not to do both with the tank out so they both got replaced.

 

Both mine were replaced at about 85k, the existing are at around 60k. The pumps are 3rd party Denso, not designed by Jag or Ford.

 

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...5/#post1866785 ...also, by using the electrical conduit it is non conductive, so no sparks.
Also, you can file the end just a bit to help wiggle/twist (blow out and repeat) it in a bit to get around the dirt and build up in the recess.

 

No other way than full throttle. EU gasoline is way more "better" than yours. It will go bad too but not that fast. I might jump the relay on in someday to test the pumps.

 

Randy, there is a very elegant solution that was posted on this forum maybe a decade ago. It involves a bit of handy work, but so simple it makes the job a breeze.
The disconnect tools are push fit, split rings in plastic, they disconnect air-con, fuel and air lines. They have a tapered fit to locate into the release ring in the tank connector.

The solution if arms cannot access these - is to make the same disconnect tool from plastic plumbing tubing and slot it so it fits around each fuel line. Pushing it up into the
tank connectors and pulling the lines free. By using the same tool to reinstall, use tape and bind well below the swage line on the fuel lines then shove it back in when the pumps are done.

Here's the post and thread with all the info......https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...5/#post1860122

The tool is the 5/16", but this is the tool and the taper needed on the plumbing pipe.