I apologize in advance if there's a thread on this already, but I've been searching the How-To's and X308 threads and just can't seem to find it.

I've replaced shocks and struts before, usually a pretty simple job, but never on my Jag. Always let the pros work on my baby ... until now. "Between jobs " right now, so thought I'd give this a shot as the pros are a little out of my price range at the moment.

I found a copy of the instructions online to do this, and they indicate that I need the "Special Tool 204-114" to replace my shocks. Now I've found several posts on this forum on how to fabricate your own "special tool" which is obviously used to compress the coil spring. I guess my question is ... "why?" I can see needing such a tool if replacing/removing the coil spring, but I'm scratching my head how it applies to replacing the shock.

The spring and shocks are independent, they're not a combined strut. I'm sure I'll have more questions after this one, but I don't want to start the job if I'm going to have to make/buy a special tool first. If it's needed, then it's needed, but I don't want to have to march down that path if there's an easier way, or just just not necessary.

Thanks in advance for guidance.

 

The special tool is to hold the spring in Mid-Laden position. That is it will prevent the spring from going full extending. Fully extended you would not be able to reconnect the shock absorber.

You can do it without it but you will need 2 jacks.1 to elevate the wheel for removal and a second to raise the lower arm one the road wheel is off.
Raising the lower arm will compress the spring. You can then unbolt and change the shock.

 

To add to the above:

First, you should be using a jackstand(s) for supporting the car, which means you can do the front shocks with a single jack - once the car is on the stands at the standard jack points, you can then use the jack to support the control arm until the shock is free. Or, you can get real creative and try to do it by removing the entire upper mount and keeping pressure on it.

The rears however, you either have to compress the springs to remove and allow for shock access, or, remove the subframe plate to lower everything again via jack, to remove springs, etc (there's also a method where you just bend the plate out of the way - not my favorite plan though). The fronts are cake, the rears can be done without the tool if you want to take extra time and have a convenient place to work on it, and time. I think the last time I did the front, was 15 mins a side once it was in the air? The rears, I have down to about a 2 hour job with hand tools and removing the plate without a spring compressor. The first time was about double that as I learned my way through it.

 

If you only after changing the shocks, CharlzO story is spot on!

I just them by removing the rear subframe, worth the 1/2 hour extra work over struggling with spring compressors.
Especially on the left side there are fuel lines very easy to damage.

Search for blackonyx in combination with Jaguar or suspension, he has 2 tutorials with pictures which are spot-on.

Finally, be sure you have 7mm Allen key, not the most common size.

 

The 7mm allen can be found in most disc brake repair tool kits

 

Thanks so much to all! Whew, what a relief! So this shock job sounds like it's not much different than any other I've done using jack stands and a regular jack (I've even used a bottle jack and a 2x4 before) to adjust the control arm seating. And I wouldn't even mind if I had to use regular spring compressors as with a strut replacement that I can "borrow" from Autozone - it was the "you need a special tool" thing that was concerning me. I assumed it's because those front coils look mighty tight and I don't think a regular spring compressor would fit in there.

Anyway, thanks again to all. I'll reply back when it's done.

 

The reason they say you need a special one, is because not all spring compressors will fit and give enough clearance while doing so. It has to be the compact version to give enough of it. Can't remember what the term is for that style, but the larger common ones just don't fit with room to move things.

Oh, and yes, careful on the driver's side for the canister that is very easy to knock a line loose and then you start getting lights and things that you weren't expecting and yes, that's how I know...

 

Spring compressor.. not expensive and a very useful tool..


.. the reason my rear suspension was squeking..

I bought a sturdy spring compressor tool.. was thinking that if anything slips and and if any of my bodyparts are in the way... its hospital for a looong time...

While you are at it.. check your lower arm bearings in the hub.. mine had started to look a bit funny..

/E

 

Yeah, I'd say these bearings look a little, ummm, "seasoned"! Thanks for the suggestion. Bearings and bushings (sway bar, control arm) are on my list too, but one thing at a time. I'm just a shadetree mechanic, so I'm taking it slowly.

 

Thanks ericjansen! You were right - the blackonyx search yielded this invaluable link:
http://jaguar.blackonyx.net/tech/frontshocks.pdf

It answers all my questions. In fact, it seems to me that using the recommended approach of using the "special tool" to compress the coil spring would just unnecessarily complicate things. Thanks again to all - I think I'm good now.

(I'm new to the forum, so I hope I'm not breaking any rules by referencing an external link)

 

He has one for the rear as well, in which he removes the A frame.
Sounds complicated, but it is not, unless all the bolts and nuts are rusted.

 

With the work you want to do and achieve then dropping the rear is the way. You can get the unit refreshed completely including a diff fluid change, checking the seals and adding a new breather tube. They're 100% shadetree compliant

 

Many thanks to all - finished front shocks and sway bar links last night, and she drives like a dream. One shock was completely shot - no wonder it was such a rough ride.

I do have one more question for the forum, though. I replaced the CATS shocks with non-CATS shocks because my wallet told me to. Of course, with the CATS connectors disconnected, I get a "Suspension Fault" amber alarm, so I'd like to make that go away by disabling CATS altogether.

I've searched the forum, and it seems as though I can accomplish this by disconnecting the CATS Module Harness, but unfortunately I can't find specifics on where that is. Some posts indicate its in the trunk, others indicate it's behind the side panel on the front passenger side.

Can anyone give me any guidance on this last part of the job?

(Then it's off to control arm and sway bar bushings)

 

Front passenger side, behind the kick panel, small black box about 4 x 3 inches. It takes some finesse to get out, but that takes care of the message.

On another note, did you also replace the upper shock mounts under the hood? Some shock diameters are different, so there could potentially be too much play back and forth which could lead to some rattling and such. If you did replace them with non-CATS versions, ignore that question

 

I did NOT replace the upper shock mounts. My existing mounts looked fine, but I did not even consider there were different mounts for CATS/non-CATS. Would you recommend I replace them? Nevermind - I guess you already recommended. It's not a big job - I'll order the parts tonight.

 

When I replaced mine, they were cheap enough and I figured the bushings had enough miles on them anyway to replace, so rather than trying to replace the bushings themselves, I just ordered new assemblies. Somewhere on here I had also read that the CATS shock rod diameter was slightly thicker than the non. So whereas a non-CATS shock would fit through a CATS mount bushing, it wouldn't go the other way around. I didn't measure, but I didn't want to chance it either, so I ordered new non-CATS mounts to match my non-CATS new shocks Good, cheap insurance, and it means that there'd be less play (which wouldn't be noticeable when the nut is tightened, of course, but I didn't want to risk it)

 

Okay, a big thanks to CharlzO - the diameter of the hole in the shock mounts for CATS vs non-CATS was indeed different. Ordered, received, replaced, done.

CharlzO: have another question regarding the disabling of the CATS system. Either I'm not looking in the right place, or I don't know what I'm looking at. I pulled back the panel on the passenger front by where the right foot would be and took some pictures. I see no 4x3 inch small black box. Can you provide any further guidance given the pics provided?

 

Edit: found my old post from when I did it, dunno if it helps but here ya go:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...2/#post1519602

I did it a year ago so I couldn't remember if it was that light blue connector or if it was another. The module is on my toolbox at home (I removed it instead of just unplugging)

And yes, I was laying on my head under the dash when I did it, so the glove box removal idea might be simpler.

 

Many thanks, CharlzO. Finally found it. It wasn't the blue harness - I only know that because I disconnected it and still has the "Suspension Fault" amber message. Up above the right hand side of the glove department (removing wouldn't have helped IMHO) was your described 4x3" black box with the inscription "JLA1970AB". My beefy hands and sausage fingers couldn't get in there, but my son's did, slightly disconnected 1/2 of it, and viola, suspension fault gone! If I could thank you again I would! (Pic included just in case it helps anyone else)




NOT this one




THIS one. Up and to the right (or up and to the left if you're upside down like I was) of the glove box. No need to pull any panels or the glove box to get to it. Labeled part #JLA1970AB