Silly question maybe ...

Is it possible to just "count" the chain parts , and place markings on the sprockets to obtian the correct timing without the expensive tools ?

 

I used the zip tie method. I tied the sprocket to the chain so the relationship would not change and then removed the camshaft bearings and lifted up the cam/sprocket assembly. It's described on the boards.

 

Hi Dan ,

that seems a good method for replacing the secondary tensioners , but not for all the chains/tensioners.

Do you think it is possible what i suggest ?
I could see no reason why not , really ;-)


This board is really helpfull for me , i'm looking for an XJR to buy and
like to know wich preventive maintanance i can do myself.

Thanks

 

As long as you can keep the cams from moving due to valvespring tension and line them up so the flats are on the same plane then you should be good. Also want to keep the crankshaft from moving somehow. To be safe, pull the spark plugs just in case there's a cylinder on a compression stroke. You would not want that thing rolling backward either.

Just a thought but I borrowed a set of tools from my local Ford Dealer for the cost of 2 dozen bagels and some cream cheese. A real pitiful face and offering a deposit and to leave your driver licence helps too.

Don't tell them you are working on a Jag. Tell them it's a Lincoln LS or a T-Bird. FYI, the tools are the same ones they use for Explorer motors too.

 

Great tips Sinister !

LOL ! "A real pitiful face" :-)))) , I'll try that one.

 

What would be the easiest way to mark the crank shaft for timing chain. I have put in back but is missing bad. what is the position for the crank shaft for the timing chain. and is there a substitute tool to use the jag tool has not been easy to find.

 

Without the correct tool it will be guess work but go under the car and look for the crank positioning sensor on the engine side of the bell housing, should be either a torx or 8mm hex bolt and remove it. Get someone to slowly turn the engine over and watch the back of the flexi plate, use a torch, you will see a selection of holes, what you are looking for is an elongated hole and that's a single hole not the one that goes for a small section of the plate, this is the timing ring, that elongated hole marks the safe zone, your pistons will all be aligned halfway up the block, it is at this point the flats on the cams should be flat across the top of the head..... Good luck

 

The Queens English, gotta be careful here.

Just for clarification/translation, a torch means a "flashlight" to us on the other side of the pond.

Wouldn't want you setting your engine on fire poking around with a propane "torch."

BTW, I keep a spare torch in the bonnet, and an extra one in the boot right next to my set of spanners. Lol.
Vector

 

Big Warning ---- Do Not do the job without the tools - 99% wont work then you have an engine rebuild to deal with - hire the tools.
I am only the messenger

 

In theory, you could.
I replace timing belts on mine, and my friend's Ducati's all the time (mandatory every 2 years), and you indeed just count for both cylinders.

For the Jag, this can be done only if you also do the primary tensioners, and have the front cover off.

As mentioned, you will need to remove the plugs, and be prepared for rotating cams, due to the valve spring loads.

From all what I have seen and read on this subject, I will go for the tools-option on a Jag.

Eric

 

One tooth off, engine runs bad,
two teeth off, new engine

 

I have a loaner tool! Send me a PM or E-mail me at gus@jagrepair.com and we can talk about it..

 

Counting the teeth would absolutely put the cams back inthe same porition IF the chain path was the same. But since you are changing the tensioners and guides, the paths will not be the same. They will not even be the same as original because the replacement chainways are not exactly the same dimensions as the originals! Measure them!

 

If I HAD to set the engine up WITHOUT the special tools, I would grind a socket or round dowel rod to fit the crank lock hole and use a straight edge on the cam flats.

I did make my own DOUBLE SIDED exhaust sprocket holding tool. I have the Jaguar single sided tool but I like my double because it has more of a chance to access the sprocket holes from 2 angles instead of one.

bob gauff

 

sorry, -- all respect - but suggesting this can be done without factory tools is extremely bad advice - If any of you - who are saying it can be done without tools, probably haven't seen one of these engines without the heads - and a crank position tool in place -the tools set number 1 piston is 45 degrees before TDC - how do you measure that with a piece of string ?
Not meaning to sound smart *** or rude, but this is one case where you bite the bullet and hire the tools