Maybe if I can get the wife to part with the treadmill..... and remove the MGB... and...and...

 

I still want the 2 seats and the treadmill....

 

She says no go

 

figured so.

 

If I'd seen your workshop pictures I wouldn't even have asked.
I don't know about Jaguar cranks but every other one I've met is pretty soft compared to a tap.
Is the crank forged + induction hardened or nitirided like the V12?

 

We are going to find out if its hard or not, I think tough more than hard,

 

I wouldn't worry - although it is an American tap.....

 

Personally, I'd rather first try to release possible stuck compression rings before putting Restore in my engine.
I don't like the idea of potential added gunk to the pistons , when cleaning of the pistons
might have the same result on compression.



The GM top engine cleaner seems to be the choice for this job.

GM (General Motors) - 88861803 - GM Top Engine And Fuel Injector Cleaner - 16 Oz. Container

Some people use compressed air to force the cleaner past the piston rings , and let it sit for a while.
Changing oil after the cleaning process.

You need a mounted cilinder head for that ... and a compressor adaptor to fit the sparkplug hole.

 

Hi Popeye,
In that post I did say I was going to run diesel oil with more detergents for 500 miles to try cleaning out the varnish and other contaminants.
Because I have the heads off I am going to clean up the combustion chambers manually.

As I'm not an engine specialist, can you expand on your suggestion.
Is this a strategy you would use,
1. Manually clean deposits off valves and pistons.
2. Replace heads
3. Add GM cleaner to each cylinder and using an adaptor pressurize the cylinder to push the cleaner into the rings. (what air pressure do you recommend)
4. Change oil and use diesel oil for 500 miles
5. Change oil as normal and see how performance and blow by is without RESTORE

Thanks for your interest, learning is invigorating...

 

Hi Roger ,


The diesel oil will not pass the oil scrape rings i think , and therefore will
not free up stuck compression rings.


The procedure could be done with a leakdown tester,
Leak Down Testing
but also straight on a compressor.

About 80psi pressure should be enough (not higher then 100psi) , let the pressure on for a while and check if your cleaner level drops or not.


Check for leaking valves before you install your cilinder heads ;o) , not only visually ...



Someone more ideas ?

 

Definitely- turn the heads upside down (valve heads facing up) and pour a little gas in the combustion chamber (enough to cover the valves) and if it drains AT ALL- you have to at least lap the valves, if not send out for a valve job. (thanks Wheeler Dealers!)

 

great suggestion Dave, I would have not thought of that.

 

Totally off topic but that top pic makes me want to emigrate!

 

I'm not suprised, living in Stoke-on-Trent

 

Hi Roger,
Just back to this thread and am seeing some of the troubles you're having.
Regarding the crank bolt and threads in the crank; You could fashion your own thread chaser from the old bolt and not be removing too much material from the crank. I see you are a machinist so you'll know how, I just figured a reminder of a way to save the cost of a large bottoming tap might be helpful. Likewise for the headbolt holes, especially into aluminum.
You've done all the hard stuff already and reassembly is a simple nuts and bolts job.
Probably wise to check the head for straightness before buttoning it up.
If the original and perhaps defective gasket went 200k I see no reason to deviate.

 

Hi Ross,
When I get the new bolt I will be very careful pre-checking if it screws in OK, I have already used the old bolt to check, but I had to file off the bad threads so I doubt that the damage is cleaned up in the bottom of the hole.
I figures around $1200-$1400 in parts so a $31 tap is not going to kill me.
I am looking at all the stupid FORD hose fittings and trying to see if I can thread the insides and replace with push on tube connections that I use for high pressure air lines.
I also am considering adding an oil collector reservoir on the part load and full load breathers to get the oil out of the inlet tract.

 

The catch can you've illustrated is vented to atmosphere so won't work as you'll be introducing unmetered air into the intake which will cause all sorts of driveability issues.
If there is so much oil you are probably facing excessive blowby from worn rings. To treat the symptom, as you've said the bottom end will remain as is, a bit of extra plumbing with a container low in the system may help. You're dealing with mist and vapors for the most part so you may just choose to live with it as I suspect a sysytem like this won't be very effective.
There are worse things than a bit of carbon on the back of the valves every 200k miles and chemical treatments could be employed occassionally to remove that anyway.
As to the plastic snap fittings. Just replace them with fresh lines, they are pretty inexpensive and fresh ones aren't nearly so fragile.
No sense in reinventing the wheel here.
My $.02

EDIT: $1200-$1400 !!?
I thought you were changing a head gasket, what have I missed?
At that expense I'd question the wisdom of doing this to what seems to be a tired engine. There are plenty of cars with dead ZFs and owners facing big overhaul costs that could be engine donors. OR, dare I say it, repower with something from that odd fellow in Dallas. You were talking about power adders.

 

Ross, look at post #126, I'm doing timing chains and all gaskets too,

I found a 2001 XJR for $3000 same color as mine with 125,000 miles not 15 miles from where I live, it's not a runner (fuel issues)
but I've got this project I don't need another.

 

Update:
I got both heads off, the left bank required the coolant tank to be removed, Oh joy, and I broke an exhaust stud, humbug...
I'm sending the heads out to be rebuilt (to big a job for me)
I used parts cleaner and scotchbrite pads to clean the piston tops.
Here are pics of the piston tops Before:

After:

The alternator was covered in oil from the leak so I dis-assembled it and cleaned it.
Before:

After:

 

Now that you have the alternator cleaned up, the hardest job is done!

Did you consider changing the brushes? You just need to match by Denso part number, or get generic stock from a rebuild shop.