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Wow, $2-3000 to refinish them? My guy will do each panel for $150 and I only need my door wood done. I'll be happy to pay him that since I'm up to my neck with work. BTW, his time frame is roughly the same, he said a week to 2 depending on cure time and his other customers.
Yes let's do the math. That's about right at 150 a panel lets see....
3 dash panels 150x3= 450
4 door panels 150x 4= 600
2 picnic tables 150x2=300
1 center console150x1=150
--------------------------------1500?
My post also is to help DIY, not trying to go into wood refinishing business however at half that charge I think I would still be the better option?
So, you just used a water based finish? No dye/stain/varnish?
Yeah my wood was natural and the veneer is very thin so it will hold a little residual stain. Yes water based these days is as good as oil based. It drys faster and if you use the spar it is uv protectant, so you won't have sun bleaching and cracking down the road. It is a little trouble soI only wanted to do this once :-)
Wasn't sure if factory used any kind of varnish or just finished naturally. Just started mine today, starting with the rear writing tables. Probably where it's the thickest! Haha, did you find the dash panels to have just as much finish? Were the door pieces the thinnest for the finish? Just trying to mentally prepare myself for what I am getting into. Haha. I decided to rough up the surface off the finish with some 40 grit sand paper (thinking it will help the stripper soak down deeper in some areas to help break it down quicker.) 40 grit paper does NOTHING to the finish in terms of taking it off like you'd expect.
Wasn't sure if factory used any kind of varnish or just finished naturally. Just started mine today, starting with the rear writing tables. Probably where it's the thickest! Haha, did you find the dash panels to have just as much finish? Were the door pieces the thinnest for the finish? Just trying to mentally prepare myself for what I am getting into. Haha. I decided to rough up the surface off the finish with some 40 grit sand paper (thinking it will help the stripper soak down deeper in some areas to help break it down quicker.) 40 grit paper does NOTHING to the finish in terms of taking it off like you'd expect.
It's all thick, same thickness. Be sure not to over Sand once you get to the wood it's super thin veneer and expensive to replace. I would use 220 very lightly to get any remaining tidbits of varnish then smooth it with 320 and stain :-) Good for you!! you'll take pride in knowing you did it yourself!! I used klean strip in the spray cans about 5 cans the longer you leave it the better it does
Quick note to all you peeps doing DIY... Water based poly goes on milky, so don't stress on your coats it dries crystal clear. I freaked out on my first coat on bare wood. I thought it was a reaction to factory coating, it's not ! There is no odor also, so my wife didn't care for me doing it inside. I just had to keep my French mastiff quarantined till I was finished :-) good luck all! If you have problems I'll do my best to walk you through it.
Last edited by Jag&jill; 07-17-2016 at 10:20 PM.
Reason: Email address
Looks great. When I did the wood in my XJS, I had to re veneer it, which is a process in its own, have some to redo do on my Vanden Plas sometime but good thing I have been or had done woodworking for 17yrs. A couple of pics posted on that.
IMAG0005
stripping down
vacuum sealed. Do not own a regular vacuum pump and bags. A bit of ingenuity, use a Space Bag and my shop vac LOL
Applying the finish
10 coats of Polyacrylic, applied by brush, hand sanded between coats. 4 coats of spray on Ploy, followed up by 4 coats of Liquid Glass polish
This is the dash, along with the other wood trim I did this past winter, the veneer is called Waterfall Babinga,
Yes let's do the math. That's about right at 150 a panel lets see....
3 dash panels 150x3= 450
4 door panels 150x 4= 600
2 picnic tables 150x2=300
1 center console150x1=150
--------------------------------1500?
My post also is to help DIY, not trying to go into wood refinishing business however at half that charge I think I would still be the better option?
Oh, I've done the math, that's why I like my guys price, but up to $3k was astonishing to me. If I had the time, I'd definitely be following your direction on this, I enjoy this type of stuff. As said, it gives you a sense of self satisfaction.
Oh, I've done the math, that's why I like my guys price, but up to $3k was astonishing to me. If I had the time, I'd definitely be following your direction on this, I enjoy this type of stuff. As said, it gives you a sense of self satisfaction.
Yeah lots of people out there wanna make a killing when they find out it's a jag,Mercedes,or Porsche. I only gave 1800 for the jag in the first place. I wasn't about to put more in woodwork than the car lol.
I've found the nice burr walnut set of wood from my 2001 Sovereign so I'll fit that to my car in place of the faded birdseye maple. The driver's wood panel has a single crack in the clear coat, if I can't get it repaired locally it may well be doing an international journey
Wow, $2-3000 to refinish them? My guy will do each panel for $150 and I only need my door wood done. I'll be happy to pay him that since I'm up to my neck with work. BTW, his time frame is roughly the same, he said a week to 2 depending on cure time and his other customers.
:P
Last edited by Johnny_B; 07-21-2016 at 02:09 AM.
Reason: Oops.. didn't read the second page
I have seen a couple posts on wood restoration. This is not a unicorn or non DIY project. Patience is the most expensive supply, that You don't have to buy! It is free you have to commit that's all!
I bought a 98 vanden plas with cracked epoxy over the wood trim.
Supplies needed........
:Klean strip or paint stripper and a butter knife. Leave stripper on for 2 hours minimum, cheaper than a real stripper!!! If there is residual, respray leave over night!
:Next step 220 sand paper clean remaining clear epoxy or whatever the factory used off.
Look at your wood if the veneer is cracked take a xacto knife pry up the edges squirt wood glue in there and clamp it! If veneer is beyond repair pull it off completely and use masking tape on the boarders of the void fill with bondo sand and go divinci on it with raw umber.
Now you stripped off what looks like bees wax. As an artist I know when oil paintings dry they crack, so yes oil based poly with its Amber tint would be great but some dummy like me 10-15 years later will cuss you. Polycrylic by minwax is water based and idiot proof!
As you put your first 4 coats on leave it to dry 1-2 hours between coats. I would explain fat over lean painting but this is just easier to follow the directions on the can! Now go buy a pack of 400 grit wet dry sand paper and add a little dish soap don't get aggressive just knock down your runs bubbles etc!
Now add another 4-5 coats and sand till no shiny spots aka low spots are on the trim. If your lazy at this point you can take 1500 grit paper and sand it again using water. Whoa not under the water guy, it's wood always wipe the excess off quickly!
Now you can use maguires or turtle wax swirl remover till you get carpel tunnel that means a lot of rubbing btw.. Then a good wax zymol etc carnauba your done! If you want deeper layers keep going after the 400 wet sand if you get bubbles in your poly don't stress wet sand and keep going!
Just be patient!
I Added gold leaf after my first 8 coats. Why? Because if bigger wasn't better they wouldn't make it! You drive a jag for #%¥+^ sakes :-)
I wanted my interior fixe,d and after getting quotes of 2k-3k I said "mom drowned all the stupid kids" no thanks. I've included pics for your viewing pleasure and please no English teachers comment on my punctuation or venaculars please! your opinion is worth what I paid for it. Anyone who has problems just ask and I'll help. I can do it for you for half what these online guys charge! I would love to see you do it for $80 cause that's what I spent doing it!
Apparently I will have to post one image at a time haven't figured out the tricks to post so I'll show you finished trim
First.
Hi, I’m a recently retired architectural professor with way to much time on my hands. I own a 2001 XJ8 snd a 1962 MarkII. I’ve decided to restore both especially the “62” for Concourse de Elegance in Monterey - for next year with a little luck and some help tracking down parts etc., that’s where you come in. Besides my academic background in architecture I also have multiple other degrees one of which is automotive engineering so I know a little bit about aesthetics and how to get my hands “dirty” so to speak. I could use all the help that’s available out there - and I know that’s asking a lot. But since I’ve dedicated my entire live to helping others I’m hoping what goes around will come around. I will post before pictures and progress pics—- so the sojourn begins….
Again please feel free to offer comments, criticism etc., I’m probably in over my head so I could use positive support.
Last edited by GGG; 09-07-2021 at 04:47 AM.
Reason: Remove eMail address and unlock post
I'm using Klean strip I think the same as you used on a test piece. Left stripper on 4 hours, will leave batch of stripper on all night. Clear coat is not coming off. Is there a different type of Klean Strip I should be using? Need help please.
Those look very nice and the price that was quoted is reasonable. I remember renewing/replacing the burled walnut in a 1962 Mark X and it was a real pain to match everything.
07-17-2016, 10:27 AM
