Hi Guys,

LTNpost on this forum (I’m usually posting about my XJSes on that forum on another site). I finally was able to have a replacement key (and buy another used fob) for Harlem, my '00 XJ8 (black/black, 160K miles), earlier this month. She has been in “hibernation” for almost 2 years now, being a non-starter and in storage until I could find a way to have my lost key (my sole one) replaced, which happened later on. I tried calling around to all the Jag dealerships here in the DFW area, and unlike back then, for once one of them actually has a Tibbe key cutting machine and someone who knows how to operate it (try Park Place Jaguar near DFW Airport, if needed). That was half the battle, as I also did not know the key cut code for her (hence why it’s always a good idea to decode your key and write the #s down in a safe place, or at least take photocopies of two sides of it). Park Place was actually able to look up the key code online for me by putting in Harlem’s VIN # into their computer registry system. $120.00 later, new key!

So, this evening I had Harlem towed to my apt. from where I had her in storage all this time. I knew the battery was totally bad by now, so put in a new one. However, when I first turned the key on, I knew something else was wrong with her. Before she would crank, but not turn over. Now, she would not even crank (I did have a mechanic friend look at her while she was in storage - he opined her starter was bad, and r/red it with a top notch used one, btw). Still no start, though.

I called another friend to come over tonight and give Harlem a look over with me, as best we could in the dark. He noticed that the shifter seemed rather “loose”, i.e. the handle would glide smoothly through the gear selections on the J-Gate w/o firmly “latching” into any of them. I told him I don’t remember it being like that when she ran (btw, the car was actually given to my late brother by me for his use, I had only driven it myself a handful of times). He tried to get under the car as best he could, and with a flashlight emerged to opine that it looked like (someone?) had possibly disconnected the cables/connectors on the underside of the shifter. I have no idea why someone would have done that, except (1) the earlier tech, as part of r/ring the starter (and forgot to reattach them) OR (2) being she was stored behind another car at a residence, and, not having a key to disengage the steering interlock and, w/o a key, the shifter not being able to be moved out of “park”, someone got under there to disconnect them so Harlem could be pushed out of the way to allow the other car out of its spot (?) (and, again, not reconnected afterwards). My
friend suggested we try pushing the car while she was in “park”, and, sure enough, she could be pushed, meaning the trans was NOT actually in park. Turning the key on again, I noticed this time the error message “gearbox not functioning”, or some such on the dash. I take it that Harlem’s computer was somehow able to detect that the cables/connectors from the shifters were indeed disconnected, and hence the message. (?)

I also wonder if the reason Harlem is not cranking is that, detecting the problem with the “gearbox”, some sort of mechanism activated through her computer was preventing the starter from cranking, possibly for safety reasons, sort of like the safety interlock does if the brake pedal is not depressed when taking the tran out of park. (?) Does that sound plausible?

One thing I did notice whenever I was turning the key on is that I did NOT hear the sound of her fuel pump priming, although the fuel gauge showed at least some fuel in the tank. I can’t remember though whether I used to be able to hear the sound (my driver’s door was open tonight) from inside the cabin back when she was running, but I was thinking I did. I know I can always hear it in my XJSes. Even if the fuel pump is not working, I noticed after turning the key on a few times I could strongly smell fuel from inside the cabin. If the pump is not working, I don’t see how it is possible for fuel to be moving through the system. My friend and I looked under the car with the flashlight and down inside the engine compartment, but could see no signs of leakage. dripping on the ground, etc. Very strange. At one point, I wondered if maybe we should disconnect the battery and stop the attempt, for fear of starting off a fire. until we knew more about the source of the smell. I then decided to call it a night.

Anyway, your thoughts and guidance please on all the above issues. After we get to where Harlem will at least crank, then we can move on to the non-start condition, if need be. If we can get her to at least crank we can do the usual quick tests to see if current is even getting to the plugs. I can also see whether the tach is pulsating while cranking or just laying flat - if the latter, then possibly a bad C.P.S. is involved.

 

btw, I did have a retired Jag factory tech reply to my post on another site, and he opines that the reason Harlem won't even crank is b/c my key needs a "chip". I told him I don't see how, when neither of my original keys (I had two at one time) had chips in them. They are the usual, flat, solid metal Tibbe key with growler on both sides of the head. The same type key used with my XJ40s and X-300 (and facelift 5.3 '92 XJS (ignition and boot lid). So where would a chip even go in regard to such a key? Chipped keys usually have a "raised" area on them where the chip is located. I hate to tell him he's in error (maybe he's thinking of the X-350s?) but I'm almost certain he is. Also, when the local Jag dealership ordered me a new blank Tibbe key and cut it for me, why would they have not mentioned the need to get a chip for it if indeed it has one?

So, does anyone know for sure whether a '00 XJ8 (N.A.) key requires a chip? (and I'm not referring to the separate fob/transponder box, which pertains to activating/inactivating the security system, turning the headlights on remotely, etc. only).

 

X308's have a chip in their keys, you can clearly see a dent in the plastic part of the key, where the chip is located underneath.

 

That was ME!!!!

 

So then (how do you get a replacement chip or key with a chip? My assumption would be if you had a key with a chip (maybe the new one you have) could be programmed by a dealer or someone with the software (Bob, maybe?).

 

Do you mean the growler?

I'm beginning to think you guys are correct on the chip. I have never seen one before, but assumed they were the size of like a small wristwatch (or key fob) battery. My friend that sells and cuts blank car keys (in conjunction with a friend who "chips" them) told me today that car key chips are actually very tiny, almost as small as a speck (yes, even 20 years ago). Wow. I never knew. So I guess with the XJ8s Jag decided to use the same keys as before, but to just "embed" a chip in the head of them.

 

Well dang, MotorupMan .. I didn't know you frequented this forum/site too, pard .. I was thinking I'm the only "oldster" on here ..

So what do I do now? Take the key all the way back to Park Place Jaguar (and my VIN #) and they can "program" it for me to work with my car? Hopefully I won't have to also have Harlem towed there to do it (and back again, until I figure out her other running issues and correct them) .. Is there any way we can do it on our own, like when we reprogram a new fob to work with the car?

 

My very question, too (see below)

 

The MEGAMOS RFID unit is about the size of a grain of rice.

 

Wow - from now on when I hear people freaking out about supposedly the feds putting a "chip" in our Covid vaccine so they can keep tabs on us, maybe indeed that IS possible ..

 

Been on this site since 2009. (was also on BPI (British Parts International in Houston) forum in the late 1990s)

I don't think you understand the configuration.

The KEY IS CONFIGURED TO THE CAR!!!!!!!!!
The key is PASSIVE. It is the car that is commanded to recognize the key. (not the other way around)

The car needs to have the diagnostic computer connected and then ALL KEYS need to be present when the configuration process is initiated.
(any keys not present will be eliminated)
Some cars, (not the X308) NEED to have a minimum of 2 keys to allow configuration.

My advise is to have at least two keys cut and configured so you don't go through this when a key is lost or fails to communicate with the car. (P1260)

There is a way to 'cheat' the KTM into seeing only ONE RFID but many keys and that is the CLONE process where the RFID is duplicated and the identical keys are recognized as only one key but actually two. (or more)

When the car is interrogated, it will report only ONE KEY programmed, and the rest on the available slots unallocated even though you actually have more than one key.
This way you can have an unlimited number of keys for the car. (you can even add keys this way without the configuration process)

You still need to have at least one key configured and THEN you can copy/clone the RFID.

 

So, in an attempt to untie the Gordian Knot, how difficult would it be for me to just take the "diagnostic computer" out and with me (+ the key) to PP (or I assume any Jag dealership can handle reprogramming? There is one much closer to me off N. Central Exp. in Dallas)? I mean, if I have to, no biggie about the "round trip towing" - thankfully I have 2 tows left on my AAA Plus membership (which just renewed 6 days ago, btw - didn't use ANY of the 3 the prior year! ) Any idea how much $$ the dealerships typically charge for the service? Is it possible there are some "indep." local places that could do it for less $$?

 

The car is a NETWORK of modules and I have never heard of trying to configure a key without the entire car present.
The Jaguar dealers usually charge 1 hour labor minimum for diagnostic/configuration service.

I don't know for sure since I have three WDS and two IDS complete units and do all my own work/configuration.
I only buy the keys cut from Autobahn Motorcars and then I handle my cars from there.

Lately I have had keys cut by a forum member SONE that uses the correct MEGAMOS keys.
I simply tell him the TIBBE key code and pay. He cuts and sends them to me.

 

Well, sounds like maybe I should head out your way with Harlem on a tow truck, Motor .. j/k

btw, what do all those initials and acronyms stand for, actually?

 

SONE still cuts keys!!!!

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/m...e3#post2480850

 

I hope the dealer will do it. Be prepared for a large bill to so ask about cost before taking your car in to them.

My preferred method is to buy the blanks and FOBs on EBay (way cheaper than the dealer!!) then get the TIBBE key cut locally then program the keys myself to the car using SDD.
Let us know what you find out.
.
.
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If he agrees and you tow the car to an independent (or bobs) shop, don’t show up with the dead car on the hook expecting it to run and drive you home the same day. There’s nothing worse than being pressured into making a dead vehicle run for very little money in a short amount of time while being pressured to make a “ran when parked” car come back to life. It’s a very unrealistic expectation we occasionally get from customers.

 

Well, I just got off the phone with Park Place Jaguar and I asked the tech why they didn't tell me about the chip and programming requirement when they sold and cut me the new key. (they remained silent on that one). I asked the tech how much the charge would be to program the key for me and, BION, he gave me the horrible news that supposedly none of the 4 Jag dealerships in the DFW still have the machine required to program a key "that old". He claims that none of their programming machines will work for cars before 2013 MY. NOW WHAT THE HELL DO I DO???

 

I would be hesitant at configuring ONE KEY to a customer car. I don't remember if the X308 will allow a single key or if the software will require a minimum of two?
I KNOW the X200 and X202 are definitely a MINIMUM 2 keys!! The X100 and X308 might not have that requirement?

If you get another key cut, I can attempt to configure them to your car if you want to bring it West about 50 or 60 miles.

There are TWO different MEGAMOS keys for the X308 series sedans. 1998 and 1999 (MEGAMOS 13) and a 'rolling-code' RFID 2000 to 2003 (MEGAMOS 48).
The TIBBE keys LOOK IDENTICAL but they will not interchange.
Hopefully you got the correct RFID key from the dealer when you had it cut? (it should be correct if the VIN was used to get the correct part)

I hate to get involved with 'dead' cars with no way to move them around the shop or parking area.

 

Bob, it’s been awhile since I’ve seen X308 keys programmed (I could be wrong about this next part). When you insert the key into the ignition and keep it in the 0 (off position) and hit ok to program the key, do you think it’s possible when you pull the “now programmed” key out and reinsert the same programmed key back in and run it as the second key to program? Thoughts?