The Return of "Harlem"
#21
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It's been my experience that with one key you must erase ALL keys and start over from scratch. So for a while you will have a car that has 0 keys programed for it. I was at this point when something happened and SDD froze up. Let it run all night and no change in the morning. Now you never want to just unplug an active SDD session but I had no choice.
This put me in the worse spot possible. I had a car with 3 keys that would fit into the ignition and turn but were not recognized by the car. No dash lights or anything. A bricked car!!
So back into SDD to again perform key programming and since the car now had 0 keys there was nothing to erase. Followed thru with the onscreen instructions. There is a time element too so get your keys laid out where you can get to them and PLEASE label them 1 2 and 3 with pieces of tape or something. They need to be inserted and functioned as SDD tells you to do. Did all 3 keys and got the car to start and boy was I glad!!
To answer the above question. No. The car knows if that key is where it's suppose to be. So if you pull and put another key in there without SDD telling you to it won't program the key. I usually have to go thru the entire thing more than once and it's not unusual to complete the programming and have SDD tell you it failed to program the key! Again PATIENCE and just go thru the steps one at a time again. Be SURE to follow the on screen instructions to the letter!
Now I need to mention a non-factory method too? You can also "clone" keys. This is NOT factory approved and with cloning you are making an exact copy of your existing key. To the car you still only have one key programmed to it. This can be done with after market software and usually is much cheaper. The down side is since it's no longer a unique key all of them will have the same programming. You can't program different seat/steering column setting for the 2 keys because to the car there are not 2 keys. They look the same electronically to the car but physically you have 2 separate keys.
So maybe you can find a car lock smith that could clone a copy? Gets away from using the dealers.
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This put me in the worse spot possible. I had a car with 3 keys that would fit into the ignition and turn but were not recognized by the car. No dash lights or anything. A bricked car!!
So back into SDD to again perform key programming and since the car now had 0 keys there was nothing to erase. Followed thru with the onscreen instructions. There is a time element too so get your keys laid out where you can get to them and PLEASE label them 1 2 and 3 with pieces of tape or something. They need to be inserted and functioned as SDD tells you to do. Did all 3 keys and got the car to start and boy was I glad!!
To answer the above question. No. The car knows if that key is where it's suppose to be. So if you pull and put another key in there without SDD telling you to it won't program the key. I usually have to go thru the entire thing more than once and it's not unusual to complete the programming and have SDD tell you it failed to program the key! Again PATIENCE and just go thru the steps one at a time again. Be SURE to follow the on screen instructions to the letter!
Now I need to mention a non-factory method too? You can also "clone" keys. This is NOT factory approved and with cloning you are making an exact copy of your existing key. To the car you still only have one key programmed to it. This can be done with after market software and usually is much cheaper. The down side is since it's no longer a unique key all of them will have the same programming. You can't program different seat/steering column setting for the 2 keys because to the car there are not 2 keys. They look the same electronically to the car but physically you have 2 separate keys.
So maybe you can find a car lock smith that could clone a copy? Gets away from using the dealers.
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The following 2 users liked this post by clubairth1:
Addicted2boost (01-08-2022),
motorcarman (01-08-2022)
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Addicted2boost (01-08-2022)
#23
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Actually, a friend of mine who is very big on A.A.A. (I'm a member, too) has suggested I try calling them and telling them I am stranded, having lost my only key, and although I have a backup key it is not programmed. She seems to be of the belief they would send out some mobile locksmith service here in DFW that would take care of programming it. I'm VERY doubtful that's going to happen though. ![Frown](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/frown.gif)
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motorcarman (01-09-2022)
#24
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Yes, he gave me the key based on the VIN #, b/c I didn't have the code for my original key. If two keys are required to program, though, that's yet something else he (@ Park Place Jaguar) didn't tell me about when he sold and cut me the key.
I mean, if he's going to rip me off for one key, might as well make it 2 and double their $$.
In fairness to the dealership, though, I did talk to another worker there on Friday (my guy was already gone for the day) and he "suggested" JAG-MAC, a local shop that works on Jags. Last time I talked to "Mr. Jag Mack" many years ago though in regard to working on my face-lift '94 XJS (4.0) he told me, "I don't work on the older Jags anymore" - wth???.
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Last edited by AttyDallas; 01-09-2022 at 05:41 PM.
#25
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I'd be happy just to get the damned key programmed, and tow it back, if needed. I can probably take it from there to get it running (ii.e. mainly reconnect the shifter-transmission linkage that someone apparently disconnected so they could move/tow the car w/o a key being stuck in "park"). If the car "knows" that it is not in "park" (or conversely, that it apparently in some gear other than park) it's obviously not going to crank, for safety reasons. Any non-start after that, I'll troubleshoot on my own.
#26
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OMG .. this is beginning to sound like a friggin nightmare ..
Anyone wanna buy a nice 2000 black/black XJ8 - comes with a non-working key though (maybe use it as a storage space)? ![Icon Angel](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_angel.gif)
Maybe the easiest, although not cheapest way, to untie this Gordian Knot is to buy a used matched key + ignition interlock (or should I buy the transducer instead?) set from the Ebay vendor 50 miles east of me and have it put in. With over 2,000 used XJ8 parts (and many parts cars) in stock, surely he could come up with something that would work, I would think. They tell me though, as far as the ignition interlock assembly, they are a major PITA to r/r on an XJ8. I don't mind having to have 2 keys, as that is already required on my face-lift '92 5.3 XJS (one for the doors + one for the ignition).
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Maybe the easiest, although not cheapest way, to untie this Gordian Knot is to buy a used matched key + ignition interlock (or should I buy the transducer instead?) set from the Ebay vendor 50 miles east of me and have it put in. With over 2,000 used XJ8 parts (and many parts cars) in stock, surely he could come up with something that would work, I would think. They tell me though, as far as the ignition interlock assembly, they are a major PITA to r/r on an XJ8. I don't mind having to have 2 keys, as that is already required on my face-lift '92 5.3 XJS (one for the doors + one for the ignition).
#27
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Wow, and that was posted just a month or two before mine. I wonder how his dilemma turned out. I think I'm beginning to see why there are SO many used XJ8/XK8 parts out there now, despite their limited production #s. Maybe a lot of owners just give up on their cats when they lose their key(s) and find it impossible to get a new one programmed for it? I know if I get Harlem running and do sell her off later on, I'm going back to the X-300s (and their bulletproof AJ16 engines + trans., I might add). As far as sports cars, I'll stick with my face-lift XJSes vs. getting an XK8, no matter how nice the latter model may look, 15" wheels and all.
#28
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There is NO NEED to disconnect the auto gearbox linkage to move the lever from PARK!
Just remove the plastic plug on the selector lever illumination module with a T30 bit and push the key into the slot while moving the lever to R. (and then N)
No need to break the plastic selector lever housing by FORCE either. (common practice at car auctions lots)
Just remove the plastic plug on the selector lever illumination module with a T30 bit and push the key into the slot while moving the lever to R. (and then N)
No need to break the plastic selector lever housing by FORCE either. (common practice at car auctions lots)
#29
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Yes forget AAA. Nice folks but clueless.
Sorry to hear all your problems. I am North of Houston and if closer would be glad to help. I was in just about your same position and it was one of the reasons I spent so much time getting my SDD up and running. Not much money involved in buying what was needed just a boat load of time and effort to get it going. As posted above I have done exactly what you are trying to do with the keys. I also ran into the same total lack of help or understanding about the keys from lock smiths AND Jaguar!!
So now I know about TIBBE keys and how and why they are cut. The details of Jaguar's complicated and confusing key programming setup. In the end it was very cheap as the proper keys/FOBS are available from china. Please DO NOT swap the key stuff! It can work but you will still need to get someone pretty good with SDD to make that happen. In fact that is more complicated than just programming keys. If you have someone like that then they should be able to just program and add keys to your existing setup.
I have attached some documents that will help? I don't know if you have seen these before or not?
Keep at it you will figure it out!
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Sorry to hear all your problems. I am North of Houston and if closer would be glad to help. I was in just about your same position and it was one of the reasons I spent so much time getting my SDD up and running. Not much money involved in buying what was needed just a boat load of time and effort to get it going. As posted above I have done exactly what you are trying to do with the keys. I also ran into the same total lack of help or understanding about the keys from lock smiths AND Jaguar!!
So now I know about TIBBE keys and how and why they are cut. The details of Jaguar's complicated and confusing key programming setup. In the end it was very cheap as the proper keys/FOBS are available from china. Please DO NOT swap the key stuff! It can work but you will still need to get someone pretty good with SDD to make that happen. In fact that is more complicated than just programming keys. If you have someone like that then they should be able to just program and add keys to your existing setup.
I have attached some documents that will help? I don't know if you have seen these before or not?
Keep at it you will figure it out!
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motorcarman (01-10-2022)
#30
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Back in 2003 we got a TSB from Jaguar Corporate Headquarters regarding replacement keys.
Since Jaguar North America was located in New Jersey, they followed NJ state statute for all dealers nationwide.
From then on, parts depts. had to require vehicle ownership documentation to sell duplicate keys.
This is why they ask so many questions!!!!
Since Jaguar North America was located in New Jersey, they followed NJ state statute for all dealers nationwide.
From then on, parts depts. had to require vehicle ownership documentation to sell duplicate keys.
This is why they ask so many questions!!!!
#31
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For those familiar with WDS/IDS on configuring keys to the X308/X100.
Connect OBDII cable to the car.
Enter the VIN. at beginning of session.
Agree to the car's current configuration.
Answer NO to "Do you wish to read DTCs for current content position?"
Proceed to the SETUP and CONFIGURATION TAB. (car with the wrench on top row)
Select SETUP and CONFIGURATION.
Select SECURITY.
Select PROGRAM KEY TRANSPONDERS.
"ALL KEYS NOT PRESENT WILL BE DELETED, DO YOU WISH TO CONTINUE?"
Sometimes (on some cars) the screen will pop-up a message stating "A MINIMUM OF 2 KEYS ARE REQUIRED. DO YOU WISH TO CONTINUE?"
Answer YES.
Follow the on-screen instructions for the key-in, key-on, key off, next key etc. etc. etc......
Hope this helps understanding the way keys are configured to the car.
Connect OBDII cable to the car.
Enter the VIN. at beginning of session.
Agree to the car's current configuration.
Answer NO to "Do you wish to read DTCs for current content position?"
Proceed to the SETUP and CONFIGURATION TAB. (car with the wrench on top row)
Select SETUP and CONFIGURATION.
Select SECURITY.
Select PROGRAM KEY TRANSPONDERS.
"ALL KEYS NOT PRESENT WILL BE DELETED, DO YOU WISH TO CONTINUE?"
Sometimes (on some cars) the screen will pop-up a message stating "A MINIMUM OF 2 KEYS ARE REQUIRED. DO YOU WISH TO CONTINUE?"
Answer YES.
Follow the on-screen instructions for the key-in, key-on, key off, next key etc. etc. etc......
Hope this helps understanding the way keys are configured to the car.
#32
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Well, I know that and you know that, Motorupman, but apparently whomever decided they wanted to move Harlem from "Point A" to "Point B" didn't.
I still have to find who that person was, as Harlem was being stored temporarily in the long private drive of a "friend of a friend" after she failed to start there for my friend. Apparently at some point Harlem wore out her "hibernation" with her hosts (maybe her registration went out and the cops were hassling the homeowners over it?), and they wanted her moved (and by then her - and my sole - key was long gone). My friend asked if that could be done (back to her home garage) and I gave the go ahead. I assumed she would use her A.A.A. membership for the move, but I'm finding out just now that's not what happened.
I am in the process of tracking down her friend that handled the "move", to find out exactly took place. I'm thinking he disconnected the tranny/shifter linkage, and then possibly pulled her home (probably 10 miles or less) with a large pickup truck, using a chain, tow rope, bumper hitch tow tube, or something similar. I would think that rather impossible though, in that the front wheels would be locked, there being no key to undo the steering wheel lock (unless putting her out of park and into neutral by disconnecting the linkage automatically does that as well?). The point being, in that XJ8s are rear-wheel driven, if he towed her with the rear wheels down, could my trans have been damaged in that short of distance, even if he kept the speed down? Or would the trans being in neutral have kept that from happening?
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#33
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Great info. (at least I finally learned how to "read" a key's code #s!
), however, Harlem is a '00, not an '01 MY. So does that mean none of this programming info. will work for her?
I'm also a bit confused here, as now the remote fob enters into the equation somehow of programming the KEY to the car. I thought the transponder (transducer?) that "connects" the key to the ignition of the particular car is a component located inside the dash, not the remote fob, as per Motorman. ? If so, then why does the remote fob need to be involved in that process?
I am quite familiar with the "open the door, flash the lights, etc." process of hooking up the remote fob to the car's security system, as I lost my fob before (in fact, I had to get another fob to accompany my new key, since it was lost as well). Or did all this system change with the '01 MY ?
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#34
#35
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Thanks (and boy I wish I could borrow one of those
), but I'm still not for sure. Are you saying the programming method will still not work so long as I only have the one new key?
btw, I did check with the website of the J.C.N.A. as to their Jag tool loaner program, and I didn't see any creature like that on there. So there goes that possibility ..
Also, I never received a response to my similar inquiry of that Ebay vendor of used XJ8/XK8 parts east of me. I'm wondering though, since I still owe him $$ on the latest part I purchased from him, if he's not responding b/c of that fact. I had told him earlier that I'm not buying anymore parts for Harlem until I know I can actually get her running (in fact I may even return some of the parts I already bought - less than 30 days ago, e.g. a replacement hood leaper, rear boot lid emblems, etc). I don't want to be in the same position I let myself get in with Superblack, my '92 5.3 XJS. Owned her two years and STILL not running, despite all the cosmetic and interior parts I bought for her to date. I'm learning you should invest first in whatever is needed to get the damn thing running, THEN get the other parts. Don't care what your neighbors see the cat looks like in the interim. Doesn't matter how nice a cat looks if the damn thing is just sitting there in your drive/parking lot.
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#36
#37
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Good point about proving ownership. Since I was not the owner I had to prove to the Jaguar dealer that I had permission from the legal owner to get the keys cut. It was another road block I had to cross in my key programming journey! But I do see Jaguar's point and even though this is all confusing and complicated the newer cars are far worse! I believe that with Pathfinder it's even more restricted. I ended up bringing in the title and a notarized note from the owner listed on the title allowing me to get the keys cut.
That's why I brought up the cloned key idea. Not a 100% solution for sure but it is useful to get your car back in operation.
Thanks again to motorcarman for the added details!
Your 2000 year should be the same as 2001 but I am not 100% sure?
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That's why I brought up the cloned key idea. Not a 100% solution for sure but it is useful to get your car back in operation.
Thanks again to motorcarman for the added details!
Your 2000 year should be the same as 2001 but I am not 100% sure?
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#38
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ALL sedan keys from (V) F10035 to (V) F59525 are ROLLING CODE 'key immobilizer system'.
They have the ROLLING CODE MEGAMOS 48 transponders (RFID or 'chip') built into the key head.
If you load the car on a trailer and bring it here to my shop I will attempt to configure your single key to your car.
Make sure the battery is 'hot' (fully charged) and it will take a few minutes.
The 'lost key(s)' will open the doors and turn the ignition lock but will NOT start the car unless they are 're-configured' to the car again. (along with ALL the other keys)
It is not a complicated procedure and this is getting blown 'way-out-of-proportion'!
They have the ROLLING CODE MEGAMOS 48 transponders (RFID or 'chip') built into the key head.
If you load the car on a trailer and bring it here to my shop I will attempt to configure your single key to your car.
Make sure the battery is 'hot' (fully charged) and it will take a few minutes.
The 'lost key(s)' will open the doors and turn the ignition lock but will NOT start the car unless they are 're-configured' to the car again. (along with ALL the other keys)
It is not a complicated procedure and this is getting blown 'way-out-of-proportion'!
#39
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Thanks, and I may end up doing that, Motor. In fact, I was just talking to my friend - a retired XK8 owner in Pensacola who personally knows and lives near Bobby Likins' shop (the radio car fix guy, until he retired from broadcasting last year) about maybe trailering Harlem all the way there for Bobby to handle it (he owns an XK8 himself). Very desperate, but I'm willing to do that just to get it done and over with (he can also fix any other items needed before I fly out there and drive her back home). Hopefully that won't be happening.
You're right .. this is getting way too exasperating ..
Like I told my former client that cut the key for me, "why in the hell did Jaguar think they even needed to take THOSE kind of measures to prevent XJ8s from being stolen?" I would think the unique construction of the Tibbe key would be sufficient in that regard.
His response: "you think that's bad, if you end up needing another key for some of our newest models it will set you back $600+."
I really think Jaguar (well, Tata Motors) is driving the marque right out of business .. smh
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You're right .. this is getting way too exasperating ..
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#40
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The NEWER Jaguar keys (smart-keys) have to actually be DE programmed from the car before that key can be used in another car.
In other words, if you want a used key from a wrecked XK150, you need to DELETE it from the original car before it can be configured to another car!!!!!!
They actually are 'paired' with the car as a 'semi-permanent' part of the car.
In other words, if you want a used key from a wrecked XK150, you need to DELETE it from the original car before it can be configured to another car!!!!!!
They actually are 'paired' with the car as a 'semi-permanent' part of the car.