I've had my wheels balanced three times in one year and again my ride quality is getting worse. It always starts with a bit of shimmering at 55 mph or so and smooths out at about 60 mph. Now the shimmering is getting pretty bad (can feel it in the steering wheel and my thighs and even on the accelerator) and it doesn't smooth out like it did before. I need to get this car checked out by someone who knows what they're doing.

I've read the threads about replacing bushings, etc. and don't feel like that's something that I want to get involved in. I don't think I need shocks, and tires seem to be okay (at least they appear to be okay). The upper shock mount bushings are old and brittle, but I don't want to replace those and find out I need something else.

So, I got a name of a guy in West Palm Beach who is supposed to be a great Jaguar mechanic. I need to give him a call.

 

In your opinion is the shimmering from the front or rear?
Is it accompanied by any noises?
Have you done any checks yourself yet?

 

I think it's from the front, but I've heard that if you feel it in the seat, it's coming from the back. I don't feel much vibration in the seat, but as I mentioned, I feel a slight shake in my thighs where they rest on the front of the seat.

The only noise is a slight sound that, I think, is coming from the left front -- wheel bearing? Bad tire? Very slight whoop whoop whoop noise.

Other than looking at the top shock mounts and doing the "bounce test" for the shocks, I've done nothing since I wouldn't know what to do.

 

Lots of things contribute: regretfully, they all need to be addressed, and dynamically, each may contribute.

I changed front shocks -- fixed worn shocks and lower shock bushing

Changed the swaybar bushings

Renewed the upper shock mount bushings

Dynamically and statically balanced the tires -- Found one wheel was distorted

Getting much better, but still not perfect.

lower ball joints, and sway bar links are like new not a problem.

Wishbone bushings are in good shape, not a problem, for me.

Worn brake rotors are next. Then, universal donuts which is also a cause of vibration if badly worn and deteriorating.

One writer on this forum also noted that if the frame to body bushings are badly worn that that will cause intense harmonic vibration if there are any other problems.

Worn Engine and transmission mounts, will also have a harmonic effect.

My dealer has checked the wheel bearings, hubs, and other front end items and determined there are no apparent problems, still. . . .

watching your search for knowledge

 

Would worn brake rotors cause vibrations when not braking? I'm considering a brake job, so maybe I'll start there, although I have no complaints about the way it brakes, but the pads are getting to the point of needing to be replaced. I would replace to rotors at the same time.

I hate to get into a piece meal replacement project with suspension parts, so I'm a little leery of trying things with the hopes it'll help.

There's a video that I saw on this forum where a mechanic is checking out the various suspension parts on an s-type (if I remember right). Wish I knew that mechanic!

 

Start with cheap answers first: upper shock mounts, sway bar bushings, rotors/pads, shocks, universal donut. A wheel alignment will frequently id bad components for $80 or so . . . Bad tires . .

 

Prince Marko has a guy in Clearwater that can rebuild the front for $208 plus parts . .

 

How's the car handle over bumps when traveling 35+mph?

 

You're like me. I hate changing everything to find the fault as well. Not sure it's brake related to be honest. You'd know about it if it was a warped or fractured rotor.

On the plus side when the brakes are changed you'll get a good chance to have a look in the wheel arch to see if anything obvious is causing it. I find it hard to believe that it's a wheel out of balance after having them balanced 3 times.


I would do the following. appologise the list is quite long...

• Jack up the front and check for play in the wheel bearings and ball joints. Also check the top shock mounts by putting a lever between the wheel and the ground and pulling the wheel up.
• Whilst the brakes are being changed give the wheels a spin when the pads are out of the calliper. This will highlight and roughness in the bearing as it can sometimes be missed when checking with the pads in situ.
• Change your tyre pressures. Set them all at maximum. Do you notice any difference?
• Swap your fronts and rears round. Front left to rear right etc. Does the vibration change in location/feel? That would highlight if a wheel is causing the issue.
• Check for wheel runout. Put a screwdriver on a paint can. Then put the tip of the screwdriver (careful of the wheel paint) next to (almost touching) the wheel rim and give the wheel a spin. Look at the gap between the wheel and screwdriver. The tip of the screwdriver should be a constant distance to the wheel rim. If the wheel is buckled this would highlight it. I imagine a small amount of runout is ok but anything excessive would cause what you describe when it reaches a certain rpm. It's not uncommon for someone else to drive the car, hit a curb and assume everything is ok (and not tell you)!
• Check your rear suspension and bearings for play. Also pay attention to the UJ's. A Bad UJ could cause what you describe so give them a good wobble about and check for play.
• Check the propshaft UJ's as well whilst the car is jacked up. Axel stands a must.
• Test drive the car. Reach the speed at which the vibration starts and slip the car into neutral. Does the vibration stop? Do the same thing again. Reach the speed at which the vibration starts and then just lift off the gas. Does the vibration stop?

It sounds like something is out of balance or shuddering. A bit like when you push a store trolly too fast and the wheel starts to wobble all over the place at a certian speed.

Occassionally you just get a bad tire. It happens but is usually not the case.

The good news is that if it's external it should be fairly easily found by a good mechanic.

 

I don't know. But I'm going on a limb, the whoop whoop sound sounds like brakes. Likely the pads

 

I spoke with a mechanic on the phone today -- he comes highly recommended and used to work at Jaguar. He talks a good game, I'm excited about bringing the car in to have him look at it. I'll report back, but it might not be until next week.

 

Ok, just my luck, I don't think this guy's going to be working on my car! The other day when I called him he was very friendly and said that he'd take a look at my car when I bring it in so I wouldn't need a ride or have to wait too long.

Yesterday I called and asked if I could come by and he said sure, so I went to his location -- one of the worst areas near downtown West Palm Beach, in fact it's one of those areas where you would not leave your car in the street even during the day. He has a small garage with cars packed into it like sardines, I did see one old XJS that looked like it hadn't been moved for a while. The rest of the cars were old junkers. I didn't find the mechanic in his trashy office, so I walked through his garage and didn't find him either. After about 5 or 10 minutes he finally showed up. Ok, I understand that he might be busy, but he did say come right over and he knew I'd be there within minutes, so I wasn't so happy to not be able to find him there -- also, I didn't like the fact that he was gone (he told me he was on a test drive) and left his garage open like that.

He told me to leave my keys and he'd try to get to my car some time in the next couple of hours! I reminded him that he said he'd look at it right away -- all of a sudden his accent (spanish) got real heavy and he started to say things like he needs to get it on the lift, he has another car on the lift that needs a part replaced, and the reason he needs to put it on the lift is because "it's a Jaguar!" I thanked him and left, with my car.

I was totally unimpressed. Maybe I'm passing up a chance to have a good guy work on my car, but I did not get a good feeling about this place. I won't be going back.

So, I'm still looking for a good Jaguar mechanic in West Palm Beach or north of the city.

 

As we use to say before loading special weapons,"better safe than sorry!"

Is the dealer out?

 

I don't trust the local dealer, so I won't even consider going there.

I can take it to my other mechanic who will let me check it out with him with the car on the lift. He's not the best Jaguar mechanic, but he's very easy to get along with and I pretty much trust him. Not to mention, he's right down the street from my house so if I need to leave the car with him I can walk home!

 

Should I find someone who can do this? https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...-vibration-pdf

 

Very interesting, and interested in following this thread. I am facing EXACTLY the same issue with mine (2001). A little background - bought the car a bit over a year ago. Had a bad shake, but tires were shot. Got new tires (Pirelli) + alignment. Got better, but never got rid of the "55 mph" shaking (very same symptoms you refer to, OldMike). Now, when I bought the car, I knew it had an accident in 2003 (carfax), impact on front right. I was imagining that it would have been long fixed. When I had the new tires installed, the mechanic pointed out to me a bent outer tie rod on the right! Ouch. Behind my mind, I kind of associated my problem with that. Also, same as you, my shock mount bushings were shot. I had to wait a year to find the dough to get this fixed.... which took place this past Friday! I replaced steering rack, shocks, shock mount bushings (other bushings 'okay' apparently). I didn't get a new alignment done yet (this Monday), so can't tell just yet if my problem cured. For now, not much of a change, but still leave the benefit of the doubt until alignment done. Speaking with my mechanic, he puts his bet(s) more towards proper wheel balancing than anything else, and suggested me to get wheels (re)balanced and swapped (front to back) and see. Need to add that my back shocks seem to be on their last leg, the "bouncing" being there, and mechanic said not to discount the potential effect.

All this said, I will keep you posted. Please keep me posted too!

(moving from Cary, NC to Austin, TX this coming week)

 

What prompted you to replace the steering rack, and what did that cost? Was it associated with the vibration that you described?

I think I'll have my guy rebalance my wheels and swap them front to back this time just to see if there's any improvement. I might also order the front shock mount bushings since they need to be replaced even if that's not the cause of the problem.

I'm convinced that the shocks, front and rear, are okay, but I'll ask my mechanic to see what he says.

I'm also going to replace the front brake pads and rotors. While I'm at it, I'll check the tie rods, bushings, etc.

Which brings me to my next question -- does anyone have the instructions on how to adjust the parking brake?

 

First, I would swap tires front to back -- but with three balancings, I can't see tires. . .

Second, buy the bushings and have your tech install them in the older carriers -- new mounts are outrageously expensive --$300 per side instead of $55 plus labor (install labor either way).

Two adjustments for parking brake -- one to take slack out of cable (read back over the last month and you will see it); and one to adjust the shoes (if memory serves, that instruction is also in that thread), but is available in the JTIS sticky.

 

Sorry to be such a "do-do head" but what does this mean? What's an "old carrier?" and what do you mean by "new mounts?" Are you only talking about the upper shock mount bushings or something else? Thanks.

BTW Thanks for the info on the p-brake, I will search for it.

 

Google Jaguar XJ upper front shock mounts. The mounts hold the bushings -- below the mount (those big pieces of metal bolted onto car with the shock stem sticking up and a rotten orange rubber falling apart) hold the shock in place, the rubber bushings reduce vibration, the rubber rots so you feel the vibration -- Jag and part suppliers provide new bushings already installed in new mounts or carriers. The typically cost $300 each ($600 total, plus installation). Welsh and Motorcars sell the neoprene to replace the rotted orange rubber for$55 - Welsh, $85 MC. But a mechanic will have to remove both of the old mounts, separate the metal bushings from the metal frame, mount, carrier, iyoss the old rubber, install the new, press the bushings back on the old mount, reinstall the mounts on the car and reinstall the shocks. A good guy, using a press or a big f. Hammer (aka, bfh), should be able to do this a couple of hours -- labor! Since the same work is required to replace the shocks with new ones, save some money and renew the shocks at the same time. You the get for about$250 in parts (buy the online, no thru your tech) and 3 hours of labor.

It is Sunday, waiting for my grandson, sobI have some time to burn, you still have that whoop, whoop sound, yes?, that ain't shocks, unless something is badly bent -- stay away from back street guys, they look for pigeons -- visit the ^^^^ing dealer.