Yesterday got the CHECK REAR LIGHTS message. Brake light on the right rear is the one that is out.

Upper light works, left light works, running light on the combination bulb works. Brake switch works for both brake lights, park release and cruise control. All other functions controlled by the security and locking control module are working.

Changed the bulb (tried three different bulbs, cuz the Sylvania bulbs suck for quality control), cleaned the contacts with contact cleaner, and pulled the tab out a bit to assure good contact. Still not lighting.

Grabbing my meter, reviewing the electrical diagram, and Will start to trace wiring today, but wonder if somebody on the forum has some guidance or suggestions. I really am bad at electrical issues which is part of the frustration!

The trouble with old cars is really the frustration . . .

 

Check for frayed wires up by the right side trunk (boot) hinge.

 

I too recently have the "CHECK REAR LIGHTS" message & so far all are functioning properly.

 

I did; although none of the brake light wires pass are in that loom.

A t the moment, baffled, I have power to both the taillight and stoplight tabs in the light socket. Tried three different bulbs: a 1157, a 2057, and the correct bulb. Taillights work in all but not the brake.

Had to quit, battery ran down. Recharged and every thing is working (except BT00-5 - right side stoplight). Battery was made in Oct 10 and installed Feb 11; maybe just the battery.

 

The brake lights each run off a separate circuit in the SCLM- in order to flash them in an entry alarm. One channel may be out. The only programming in the SCLM is the key fob, not the key transponder. You can try the same fix as when the brake light sticks on, see the archives, or get yours repaired by one of several module guys, or hit the fleabay.

 

Ross, thanks. That sounds like the problem.

I will try RobertDIY's solution. Pretty sure that will work for the short run. Hopefully, it won't burn out the left side channel in the Security and Locking Control Module.

Brake light issue on a 2003 Jaguar XJ8 had the best info.

 

I think there have been two or three reports of failures after that. If I was going to hack it, I would try to use the center light circuit. It comes from a relay and should be better able to handle additional load.

 

Let me look into -- read that even Robert had a SLCM failure with his jury rig. For now, the bridge from the left signal will work. Separately will look for a used module and then send the original to Idaho.

What a bitch trying to splice wires with arthritis, rain, bad back, poor light. Maserati dealer down the street has an 09 XFR with 22k for $24k. Maybe time to switch rides.

 

I feel your pain! I bit the bullet and bought one I knew was likely to be ready to drive, but I still LOVE the styling on my XJR!

 

For the moment, taking braking signal from blue wire left lights and bridging to orange on right. Same as RobertDIY's youtube video. At least the cops won't be pulling me over after dinner out (with some/lots of zinfandel!).

Have tried to find a replacement for mine (LNG2600HB 315 Mhz); just missed one at on eBay for $179; now bidding on another.

But as I review the many threads on the forum, it seems to me to be relatively easy solder out, solder in a new (or replacement) chip. Bob, Jim, Ross, et al were you ever able to find a replacement chip for the obsolete chips that are no longer available? Would a chip from a cheap used board be workable -- some boards different from mine go for about $50. Not sure I can tell how to determine if a chip is good.

As soon as the rain quits I will rewire the right stoplight to the upper brake light so as to not burn out the current SLCM.

Could I wire from the trailer socket? I wish I had paid attention in electronics class (oh, I forgot, they didn't have chips then!).

Really appreciate the guidance so far.

 

You just about cannot de-solder a power chip without destroying it. These are SMT chips and it would not be a very good first circuit board learning experience. Maybe you know someone who does board repair. It would be a 10 minute job.

I will look for my notes for the part number. The original is obsolete, bu there are upgraded components that will work perfectly. The device is a "High side solid state switch", rate dfor greater that 20 volts (for spikes) and about 10 amps. The SCLM DOES NOT use the internal current sense built into the chip, so that spec is not important. The only other consideration is the chip package. It changed between my MY 98 and MY 02 cars.

 

Thanks; I think I Will take the high road: bid on a used board. It will arrive in a couple of days and I will switch out the original and send it off to Idaho. When it gets back, switch again and put the other back on eBay.

Every now and then, the old adage, "It's only money," beats screwing something up!

Again, thanks.

 

Installed the replacement SLCM (LNG2600HB 315 Mhz) that arrived in the mail from Tx. Rewired the right brake light and cut off the bridge from the left light. Works like a champ. Last thing to do is to reprogram the FOBs. Saved instruction somewhere.

Remote both programmed.

Thanks, Ross for the 'dead on' assist.