Good afternoon folks! I appreciate this forum for all of the info and knowledge I came across. Been studying on here for the past year, finally decided to post a thread due to my 1999 VDP acting up. I've been having the car for a year it's been a dream!

Earlier this December I got home one night and as I was on the phone parked in my driveway I realized the car started idling rough and suddenly stalled out. I figured I had a major vacuum leak as a couple days before I realized my Mass air hose had cracks in it so I decided to tape it meanwhile a new one was ordered. When I saw those cracks I inspected the valve covers and saw they were leaking as well.

I also started hearing some clicks from the secondary chain tensioners area so I figured I'd get those out of the way while I replaced valve cover gaskets. I tried the ol zip tie method. I was grateful that I was aware of the tensioners because when I pulled the original ones out they literally fell apart in my hand. Huge relief. Everything was done as carefully and as patient as possible, I felt very confident.

After putting everything back together, tried to start up the car but I couldn't get it to start. I went back in and took everything back off to see if I did anything wrong. Realized that one of the exhaust cam holders was put on backwards. I flipped that back, inspected for any damage on the cam and everything looked good. I checked the timing marks I put on the chain and everything seemed to be aligned pretty good. The flats on the cams we're parallel as well.

Put the car back together tried to start it and didn't start. Just kept turning. Took my battery to charge, bought new spark plugs. While doing the new spark plugs I squirted a little bit of oil into the wells to lubricate the valves. After a couple tries I finally got the car to start but was idling rough and also the first time I've seen the restricted performance on the dash.

Car starts right away now but the idle is rough and restricted performance. Check engine light has always been on originally for MAF Sensor. Got a new one. Cleared the codes. Now I have codes:
P1647
P1000
P1316
P0300

​​​​​​A mechanic friend of mine said it could be coil packs most likely but before I buy them I just want to double check. I appreciate the help!

 

Ignition coils came in, figured it was a must since old coils are as old as myself (21). With new coils we are still at a rough idle in P and N (@1000rpms) consistently which made me feel a little better because before the replacement coils, rpms were jumping up and falling to almost stalling out. When I put it in R or D that's when it seems like it wants to stall out now. Loses power even all dash lights start pulsing. Also started developing a loud tick or slap sound coming from deep in the engine underneath intake manifold. Sounds like it's coming from US driver side. This is concerning me I hope it's not a valve being smacked. Because of that I do not want to start the car anymore until I pull the covers off. I'm assuming a jumped tooth. Haven't got a chance to take the covers off due to non stop rain. I don't have a garage unfortunately.

 

P1316 multiple misfiring. You can pull the ignition coil harness while engine running and check Which coil exactly not working . I had p1316 and i bought set of high quality ignition coil from eBay works great

 

Possible faults:

 

Always do a web search using... Jaguar P**** ...it will give you more specific answers to your issues.
For on site searches here, use... P**** X308 ...for your model.

 

I appreciate you guys for the advice! I ended up pulling the valve covers off, rotating the engine so the flats can be aligned at the top and saw that the exhaust valve closest to the secondary tensioners was sitting in it's place, not applying pressure to the cam lobes like the others. As I looked deeper into where the valves sit I saw the spring and stuck my finger in there to move it and the spring was broken. I believe that's why the Jag was running so rough and misfire codes. I then rotated the engine until all of the lobes were applying minimal pressure to the valves and zip tied the chain to sprocket. I stuck a long screwdriver into the spark plug well and the Piston was at it's highest point. We then lifted the exhaust cam with the help of my friend and took the spring out with retainer and seat. I'm glad I found the broken spring and it's not too hard to get to. Now it's just a matter of finding the correct exhaust valve spring with retainer and seat. If you guys know where I can find that or any advice I would appreciate it!

 

https://www.jaguarparts.com/oem-part...prings-aj87950

 

Have the primary and secondary timing chains, guides and tensioners been replaced?

Once you replace the broken valve spring, perform a compression test to determine if there is damage to the valve.

 

+1

 

Thank you for the replies. Secondary timing chains, guides and tensioners have not been replaced. Only secondary tensioners. Also forgot to mention I replaced the thermostat and thermostat housing. A compression test will be performed as soon as valve spring is replaced. Hopefully no damage on the valve and car runs good after getting it back together.

 

​​​​​​Spring assembly will come in next week. After this job and the car runs I plan to do the rest of the chains and tensioners with water pump as soon as I can. Looking forward to getting this spring in first though.

 

I had a broken exhaust valve spring on the driver's side engine, valve closest to the secondary cam chain sprocket (most front). Valve spring replaced, along with seat and retainer. Had a tough time getting the retainer/keepers to sit and hold the valve but got it done. After setting in the new valve spring assembly I realized that my valve seemed to be lower than the neighboring valves. I believe I have a bent valve at this point. A compression test has not been performed but it seemed kind of obvious that my valve can be damaged/bent due to it sitting really low. If I put the exhaust cam in it's position, all the lobes are resting on each shim except for that one I believe is bent where it is sitting really low not even close to applying pressure to the lobes like the other valves.

At this point the next step from here is taking off both heads and replacing that valve itself and while I'm at that I might as well do the head gaskets along with water pump and the rest of the tensioners and chains. Any advice or important things to keep in mind while doing this job? Is it possible that there is damage to the Piston or other valves?

 

Piston to head clearance is rather tight on the 4.0L, so I wouldn't do a compression test until you put a bore scope in the cylinder to look at it. That will also show you what your piston looks like.

As for chains and tensioners, prompt the How To link in my sig and find the post by blackonyx on that. Its an older thread, but the engine hasn't changed....good pics also.

For the water pump, after I replaced mine when I did my chains and tensioners, I had to pull it back off because it wasn't seating exactly flush and wouldn't seal. So I had to use Permatex on the gasket. So you may want to do that so it only has to be done once.
Replace the coolant lines and thermostat.
New cam cover gaskets.
Patience!

 

I've probably already invested about 1k in the car already. Got it for 4500. Lasted me about 6 months so I am kind of sad lol that limited time was so worth it though I love the Jag man. I have the tools and mindset to study & do the work but time is limited. I've been working hard on not letting it beat me but at this point with a possible bent valve I'm stuck. Personally it is my only car. My wife drives an 09 Nissan Sentra so that is basically my back up as of now. I am focused on buying a truck now. I'm stuck between giving up on the Jag and possibly selling it as a parts car as it is in 7/10 condition or just keeping it and letting it sit and slowly work on it overtime. Not sure what's more worth it. I would love to sit on it and fix it later on when life's right but I am a 21 year old with a 1 year old son and my career is taking off right now so I am focused. I'm a tattoo artist, so is my wife. I need some advice or even estimates on how much money this can possibly take to get back on the road. I appreciate your time and advice.

​​​​​​​

 

Well, that's a tough decision and obviously a personal one since you know your family, financial and work situation to be able to do this. Dang, your only 21, be thankful you found the Jag world so young.

I would like to encourage you to keep it and give it a go later....I don't think you'd be disappointed. I've had mine for 15 yrs now and haven't regretted one day of her. I look forward to driving her each and everytime when I get home from my out of town work. If you want to know how I feel about her, listen to the Joe Bonamassa song in my sig.
I've done most of the work myself except for a couple of things, where I needed a lift. In that case, I have my Jag Tech who's a by gosh true Irishman.

If you haven't been there, try the regional forum and see if you have a local Jag owner you can work with to get her going? ... https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/regional-34/

 

Thank you for the encouragement brother. Definitely a blessing to have a Jag and share my experiences with you and others. I am determined to get her back on the rode as soon as I can! I appreciate the link I will take a look. I am going to share some photos of why I think I have a bent valve. Right under this.

 

I do not have a snapped timing chain so I don't know how this could have happened.
I tried to pull the valve up but couldn't anymore than where it's at. I did notice that when I was compressing the spring to insert the valve retainers the valve fell just a little lower. I pulled it back up and tried again. I know that the retainers are supposed to be locked in at a lower point on the valve but that's the best I could do. I am debating on putting it all back together and turning the engine but iffy about it. I don't want to cause more damage.
Any ideas?


All shims are sitting evenly except that first one reading left to right. That's exactly how it was before I diagnosed that broken valve spring. I was hoping that with the new one it would bring it back up but didn't. Don't know what to do from here.

 

I'm not any authority on the V8 engine, but why not try turning the engine by hand with the spark plugs removed, to see how things are working and to feel for any unusual binding or clash at that valve? Not a guarantee that there is no valve problem but clash is the last thing you want to see. And movement of the valvetrain might help to reveal whats happening at that valve.

 

Only turn it the same way it would go if running.

 

What are you trying to pull it up with?
I just found this by dumb luck...a USB (bluetooth also available), borescope for your phone (and cheap)... I may even get one of these at those prices. But it should do the job for you rather nicely, make sure it has a light.
I like it because if its like the camera on the phone, you can explode the view, which I can't do on my borescope.