'S' Button XJ8 1998
#1
#2
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Welcome to the forum Gianni,
I've moved your question from UK Region to X308 forum. Members here with the same model will be able to help.
When you get a minute, please follow this link New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum to the New Member Area - Intro a MUST forum and post some info about yourself and your vehicle for all members to see.
In return you'll get a proper welcome and some useful advice about posting to the forum.
Graham
I've moved your question from UK Region to X308 forum. Members here with the same model will be able to help.
When you get a minute, please follow this link New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum to the New Member Area - Intro a MUST forum and post some info about yourself and your vehicle for all members to see.
In return you'll get a proper welcome and some useful advice about posting to the forum.
Graham
The following users liked this post:
Gianni (02-28-2014)
#3
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Welcome to the forum Gianni,
I've moved your question from UK Region to X308 forum. Members here with the same model will be able to help.
When you get a minute, please follow this link New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum to the New Member Area - Intro a MUST forum and post some info about yourself and your vehicle for all members to see.
In return you'll get a proper welcome and some useful advice about posting to the forum.
Graham
I've moved your question from UK Region to X308 forum. Members here with the same model will be able to help.
When you get a minute, please follow this link New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum to the New Member Area - Intro a MUST forum and post some info about yourself and your vehicle for all members to see.
In return you'll get a proper welcome and some useful advice about posting to the forum.
Graham
This is the 1st time the car has refused to start, I pressed the S button yesterday and wondered if it changed the fuel supply!
#4
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Have a look at Gus' no start checklist from XK8/XKR FAQ's.
JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
Same engine so the same logical troubleshooting process applies.
Graham
JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
Same engine so the same logical troubleshooting process applies.
Graham
The following users liked this post:
Gianni (03-01-2014)
#5
#6
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" I can’t tell you how many times 308's do this. I was at Jag from 1998 to 2006. When 308's were new, they were being recovered in and we didn’t even let them unload the car, just went over and started them, revved for a bit to clear out and sent straight back to the customer with a bit of advice of how not to do it again. The classic customer phone call was, I got the car out the garage yesterday to wash it, then put it back, it was fine, then the next day it wouldn't start.
IF IT’S ON COLD START ALWAYS CLEAR IT OUT BEFORE YOU SWITCH OFF.*
Your car is flooded, nothing more, the bores may be worn, but they wont have gone from starting to none starting over night.
What you need to do is simple (and sorry for going over what’s already been covered)
Charge battery so is full, or attach to jump pack or jump vehicle.
Open the bonnet go to the throttle body and hold it on absolute full throttle, (its easy to say floor the accelerator but with slack in the cable, and the full throttle stop be badly adjusted and you wont actually get the injector cut off you want to happen, so doing it under the bonnet can make all the difference in the world). If you have no assistant, make sure you wind the throttle stop under the accelerator pedal right into the floor first, and floor the pedal.*
Have an assistant hold the key in the crank position and tell them no matter what, don’t let go of the key, After about 45 seconds very slowly reduce the throttle position to say 80-90%, you should hear the injectors start clicking (it will be hard over the noise of the starter but should be possible) then modulate between 100% and 80-90% throttle as you hear the engine start to fire.
If you have been cranking for more than say 1 minute 30 secs. Give up and get the plugs out. THEY DO NOT NEED REPLACING, just drying and cleaning. Best thing is a gas soldering iron to burn the fuel off, but if you have not got one, blowing on them should be enough. With the plugs out you want an oil can and 2 squirts in each bore. About 50ml of oil, too little and it wont work, to much and you will be smoking for a week. Before you put the plugs back in, just flick the key so it turns over for 2 to 3 secs. Wipes the oil into the cylinder walls you see, and if you put too much in, fires the residue out the top rather than hydraulicing the engine.
Then plugs back in and repeat the full throttle start up as above. I have never failed to get one going like this. If it doesn't work, then check for spark but I'm sure it will.
And it will smoke like mad when it fires, just keep the revs up, say 3000rpm for a minute. And then go for a blast to clear it out, try to do this on a deserted road, or you will scare innocent motorist and get in trouble with the Law."
IF IT’S ON COLD START ALWAYS CLEAR IT OUT BEFORE YOU SWITCH OFF.*
Your car is flooded, nothing more, the bores may be worn, but they wont have gone from starting to none starting over night.
What you need to do is simple (and sorry for going over what’s already been covered)
Charge battery so is full, or attach to jump pack or jump vehicle.
Open the bonnet go to the throttle body and hold it on absolute full throttle, (its easy to say floor the accelerator but with slack in the cable, and the full throttle stop be badly adjusted and you wont actually get the injector cut off you want to happen, so doing it under the bonnet can make all the difference in the world). If you have no assistant, make sure you wind the throttle stop under the accelerator pedal right into the floor first, and floor the pedal.*
Have an assistant hold the key in the crank position and tell them no matter what, don’t let go of the key, After about 45 seconds very slowly reduce the throttle position to say 80-90%, you should hear the injectors start clicking (it will be hard over the noise of the starter but should be possible) then modulate between 100% and 80-90% throttle as you hear the engine start to fire.
If you have been cranking for more than say 1 minute 30 secs. Give up and get the plugs out. THEY DO NOT NEED REPLACING, just drying and cleaning. Best thing is a gas soldering iron to burn the fuel off, but if you have not got one, blowing on them should be enough. With the plugs out you want an oil can and 2 squirts in each bore. About 50ml of oil, too little and it wont work, to much and you will be smoking for a week. Before you put the plugs back in, just flick the key so it turns over for 2 to 3 secs. Wipes the oil into the cylinder walls you see, and if you put too much in, fires the residue out the top rather than hydraulicing the engine.
Then plugs back in and repeat the full throttle start up as above. I have never failed to get one going like this. If it doesn't work, then check for spark but I'm sure it will.
And it will smoke like mad when it fires, just keep the revs up, say 3000rpm for a minute. And then go for a blast to clear it out, try to do this on a deserted road, or you will scare innocent motorist and get in trouble with the Law."
The following users liked this post:
bigcat777 (03-06-2014)
#8
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Hi Steve,
I'm not a mechanic so can't answer your question. It is a V8 - Presume thats 8 cylinders, Yeh!!! And 3-2 engine with 'S' Sport button to give extra Umphhhh when needed.
Are you trying to help or make fun?
I've owned the car for 12 years and never had a problem except for changing tyres and battery.
Thanks for your reply.
I'm not a mechanic so can't answer your question. It is a V8 - Presume thats 8 cylinders, Yeh!!! And 3-2 engine with 'S' Sport button to give extra Umphhhh when needed.
Are you trying to help or make fun?
I've owned the car for 12 years and never had a problem except for changing tyres and battery.
Thanks for your reply.
#10
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Yes, Problem resolved. First thing I did was check all the fuses and relay switches, pump and fuel lines. Then the mechanic stepped in.
Running and purring better than before.
The problem was indicated as "Cylinder Wash"!!! Unburnt fuel stripped the oil and hence no compression so maybe you will need to oil up those cylinder heads before you throw the switch.
Running and purring better than before.
The problem was indicated as "Cylinder Wash"!!! Unburnt fuel stripped the oil and hence no compression so maybe you will need to oil up those cylinder heads before you throw the switch.
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