SC - Jumping fuel pump
#1
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Can someone direct me to the thread showing how to jump the SC's second fuel pump when the primary dies?
The car died while I was in the bank drive in.
My Jaguar handbook shows the relay's in the trunk -- but they are all labeled "R1" in the book -- so I can't even be sure what relay is primary and what is the SC's.
The car died while I was in the bank drive in.
My Jaguar handbook shows the relay's in the trunk -- but they are all labeled "R1" in the book -- so I can't even be sure what relay is primary and what is the SC's.
#3
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Swapping them won't normally work as the ecu senses the relay drive circuit
and not the pump operation.
The proper way to do this is remove one relay and try.
If that does not work, replace that relay and remove the other.
I keep a one foot jumper wire with a spade connector at one
and an alligator clip at the other in the manual folder after the
last fiasco.
and not the pump operation.
The proper way to do this is remove one relay and try.
If that does not work, replace that relay and remove the other.
I keep a one foot jumper wire with a spade connector at one
and an alligator clip at the other in the manual folder after the
last fiasco.
#4
The following 2 users liked this post by motorcarman:
rocklandjag (11-22-2015),
yeldogt (11-17-2015)
#5
#6
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Thanks - I was able to get the car to my local garage. Going over this morning to discuss.
Where is the connection to check the fuel pressure at the fuel rail? I thought it was on the drivers side up near the firewall. Could not see it yesterday.
I'm wondering about the pumps -- are they Denso?
The Jaguar part looks to be around $350.00 per pump. Autohaus is selling what they say is OE for $250.00 -- but the number is different. I'm also seeing that the early cars may have had a different pump design.
Where is the connection to check the fuel pressure at the fuel rail? I thought it was on the drivers side up near the firewall. Could not see it yesterday.
I'm wondering about the pumps -- are they Denso?
The Jaguar part looks to be around $350.00 per pump. Autohaus is selling what they say is OE for $250.00 -- but the number is different. I'm also seeing that the early cars may have had a different pump design.
#7
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Some list the pump as C2N3866 ... Jaguar's number is JLM20756 ?? I'm wondering if that is the whole part w/ the strainer. They don't list the pump alone .. although when I put in the C2N3866 number it is coming back as good .. selling for around $200.00 from dealer.
Last edited by yeldogt; 11-17-2015 at 07:42 AM.
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#13
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No OEM Denso pumps are available aftermarket. The aftermarket Denso pumps usually come with an adapter link lead.
C2N3866 is most likely a superseded part #
I have used Bosch, Denso and C2N3866 from Rock Auto and all work.
The Rock Auto URO C2N3866 is a physical DIRECT REPLACEMENT and will use the OEM mounting rubbers without modification. The others will need the rubber mounts trimmed to fit.
bob gauff
C2N3866 is most likely a superseded part #
I have used Bosch, Denso and C2N3866 from Rock Auto and all work.
The Rock Auto URO C2N3866 is a physical DIRECT REPLACEMENT and will use the OEM mounting rubbers without modification. The others will need the rubber mounts trimmed to fit.
bob gauff
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yeldogt (11-17-2015)
#14
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Just so I understand -- Only the URO part is a direct replacement? So I just install with new strainer. Same wires? It is not very expensive.
The aftermarket Denso pumps need an electrical adapter? Have to splice?
What about the Bosch?
I found an old thread (2010) where someone from Gaudin posted the C2N number as being the OE Jaguar pump number for a 2003 XJR -- he listed a couple other parts ... the strainer being one. That's why I'm a bit confused why it looks like they still sell the OE pump .. but the JLM # is showing ... I think the JLM# may be the whole assembly.
The aftermarket Denso pumps need an electrical adapter? Have to splice?
What about the Bosch?
I found an old thread (2010) where someone from Gaudin posted the C2N number as being the OE Jaguar pump number for a 2003 XJR -- he listed a couple other parts ... the strainer being one. That's why I'm a bit confused why it looks like they still sell the OE pump .. but the JLM # is showing ... I think the JLM# may be the whole assembly.
#15
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Gaudin sut e-mail me JLM is replaced by C2N3866 .. also need NJB6091... and flange gasket NNA6020AA.
I guess the question is -- Is the URO part made by the same company as the OE part?
I just went through this with one of my MB's --- The Bosch part ($150) the Pierburg part ($225) and the OE MB part ($350) are all the same .. same factory in Poland!
I guess the question is -- Is the URO part made by the same company as the OE part?
I just went through this with one of my MB's --- The Bosch part ($150) the Pierburg part ($225) and the OE MB part ($350) are all the same .. same factory in Poland!
#16
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The URO part is a direct 'plug-in' part. Same electrical connector and rubber mounts.
It is likely made in China. (Exact copy of the Denso OEM Jaguar part)
The Denso pumps come with an adapter link lead. The link plugs into the pump and the factory connector plugs into the link.
The Bosch pump will require a 'cut-and-splice' to the OEM Jaguar tank harness.
You cut the OEM pump connector off and splice the harness to the supplied connector in the Bosch pump kit.
The pump kit may or may not come with a replacement gauze filter for the pump inlet.
I usually keep a few in stock in case the new pump kit is supplied without.
If you are careful and the top flange gasket (rubber ring) is not worn, damaged or deformed, then you can usually re-use it. You might want to have a replacement handy in case it looks suspect.
I hope this answers your questions.
bob gauff
It is likely made in China. (Exact copy of the Denso OEM Jaguar part)
The Denso pumps come with an adapter link lead. The link plugs into the pump and the factory connector plugs into the link.
The Bosch pump will require a 'cut-and-splice' to the OEM Jaguar tank harness.
You cut the OEM pump connector off and splice the harness to the supplied connector in the Bosch pump kit.
The pump kit may or may not come with a replacement gauze filter for the pump inlet.
I usually keep a few in stock in case the new pump kit is supplied without.
If you are careful and the top flange gasket (rubber ring) is not worn, damaged or deformed, then you can usually re-use it. You might want to have a replacement handy in case it looks suspect.
I hope this answers your questions.
bob gauff
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yeldogt (11-18-2015)
#17
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I looked for schrader valve -- or other port -- to test the fuel pressure. I see the fuel lines on the left side -- no valve? or do you have to remove the line ?
Motorcarman: Great information -- Sounds like for the later cars the URO pumps are the best for a cheaper pump vs the OE. My local mechanic who maintains all my personal cars and business cars is very good but does not do many Jaguars --- mine and a few friends ... he has never done a tank on an x308.
Motorcarman: Great information -- Sounds like for the later cars the URO pumps are the best for a cheaper pump vs the OE. My local mechanic who maintains all my personal cars and business cars is very good but does not do many Jaguars --- mine and a few friends ... he has never done a tank on an x308.
#19
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Motorcarman: Great information -- Sounds like for the later cars the URO pumps are the best for a cheaper pump vs the OE. My local mechanic who maintains all my personal cars and business cars is very good but does not do many Jaguars --- mine and a few friends ... he has never done a tank on an x308.
The Denso, Airtex, Carter and Bosch etc. need the top/bottom mount rubbers trimmed (sharp razor knife) and adapters installed. I have installed ALL of them in different cars and so far, not one has come back failed. Many customers buy the pumps and then they realize that the fuel lines on the tank bottom are difficult to access. I end up replacing the pumps with their parts.
I was worried about the URO because they were so inexpensive (CHEAP????????) but none have failed prematurely that I am aware of.
Tell the local mechanic to remove the fuel lines from the tank bottom before pulling the tank rearward to prevent kinking the steel lines. Plenty of horror stories here on the forum.
bob gauff
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yeldogt (11-18-2015)
#20