non advanced to advanced position=turn clockwise 60 degree,right?Thanks sparkenzap!

 

Read test point's threads for tempest"The other thing that makes noise in that area is the Variable Valve Timing units on higher mileage cars. It is often described at a 'ticking' above idle. Fix is to use higher viscosity oil".
how about 10w40?and how does VVT make noise?Can anyone tell me the detail?!I really want figure out where my car noise come from!HELP!

 

Very late to the party ... but

Your trouble seems now to be RPM sensitive.

now:

higher RPM = higher oil pressure

and:

the tensioners and vvt are dependent on oil pressure

but:

they usually work ok at idle because there is no leakage

so:

look at the joints where the oil might leak out, for example between tensioner and cylinder head. perhaps you did not clean the surfaces or they are not flat.

In addition, you may have a bad tensioner straight from the box. BTW, there is supposed to be a ratchet system on the tensioner that is meant to keep the tensioner from retracting as it wears. It doesn't get mentioned much. Apparently it is a bad idea to push in on the tensioner piston "just to see how it works".

 

Thanks plumsauce!It's not late for party,problem still there.I thought about oil pressure,changed 10w40 instead of 5w30,seems not work.Would you please tell me how I can check leaking between tensioner and cylinder head and know the surface is flat?Thanks again!

 

Unfortunately, that is a job for eyeballs.

You want the mating surfaces of the parts where the oil passages meet to be clean and flat.

At a guess, on the tensioners you can loosen the bolts and pull them away to look at the surfaces without having to actually remove them. That would save undoing sprockets or lifting of cams. You just want to get a look.

When you go in again, look to see that the tensioners have actually expanded to meet the chain at the movable end. They should be at least close if working properly.

Is there a gasket involved in the vvt that got forgotten?

Did you ensure that you have the correct tensioner? The left and right are different. And ... "left" is as viewed from the driver's seat, not as viewed from the front of the car.

And still, the part may be defective.

 

Interesting point. On the driver's side, the springy shoe is up, and on the other side, the springy shoe is down. (Fixed shoe on tensioned/driven chain side.) If I recall correctly, the castings are also marked "LB" and "RB" (left bank, right bank).

 

Hi guys,I will go in there again and check it."in fact I changed two tensioners on this side.First one I put in(with short bolts) totally no working.I pulled out and found it come to parts,I think it's a bad one,then I asked the shop(they order the tensioner for me),they told me the part is ok,maybe I didn't put some oil in it first.I install it again with oil,but same thing.I open my cover again and get it,I bring it to the shop ask them change one for me.They don't,they still think it's good one,maybe I made a mistake.They said I have to buy another one, if new one working fine then they can return my money(ca$120).No choose,I bought another one and put in and it's working like that,much better".I have a "RB" in my hand now,will change passenger side later.But I want fix drive side noise first.More ideals please!

 

Hi pd! I hope can read these threads and help me!

 

And now as I re-read the post, I may be bassackwards. But, they *are* different from side to side.

 

Hi guys,bad news,my left side chain broken!Tensioner broken into piece(new second one).I'm worry about pistons and valves now.So,who can tell me how to test them are good or bad in easy way.Thanks!

 

Woe, Tom. I would sure like to know the failure mechanism. Any idea?

 

Which chain broke, primary or secondary? Compression check can quickly reveal valve damage, but can't be done until the chains are all back to normal.

What was the circumstances of the break - in the driveway or going 70? My secondary chain broke in the drive way on startup and I had no valve or piston damage.

If only the secondary chain broke, I would repair the chain and tensioner, set the timing, and do a compression check before starting. Disable spark or fuel when cranking.

Reading over your posts, I would want to know the mystery noise isn't coming from a primary chain rail being broken. If you have a primary chain problem you will have a hard time getting anything else to work right until it is fixed. Could also explain why your secondary parts are failing. The whole chain system needs to be dead nuts in sync and tensioned.

Make sure all the pieces of your tensioner are accounted for...

 

Hi everyone,"long time no see"! Very busy these months.But i found that valves bent(two of them).I will replace them next month,then will post some pics here,hope can help someone. Thanks guys!

 

do you need some valves? Which ones? PM me- Price is right.... like zero

 

Hi guys,I don't need valves now.I think I need a engine.Rebuild that head need $1000.A used engine:jag $2k and ford $1k.Here is my question:May I use Ford one(3.9L)? Any ideas? Maybe I need make a new thread "XJ8 engine change",so everyone don't need read all above it.