Secondary Timing Chain Replacement
#1
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Okay. I hated to start another thread on this popular subject. But, I have a few specific questions. I just ordered up the kit from Christopher's with the master link secondary chains. I was going to replace chain without removing the exhaust cam gear, which should've removed the need to preload chain tension across the top of the gears/tensioner (if required). However, having reviewed printed out threads from here, it would seem that there is not enough clearance between the gear and housing, which means I've got to remove exhaust cam gear. I'm replacing chains since pieces of tensioner rode around between the chain and gear, thereby probably stretcing the chain. Here's my big question. Do I need the tensioning tool to preload (tension) the chain across the top of the sencondary tensioner? And if so, how much....using a torque wrench, I presume. I understand all the other tools and purposes. My old JTIS disc won't work w/windows 7. And admittedly I haven't looked in JTIS on this site. Took the easy route by asking this question. If you've read my "Kitten is broke thread" you'd know that I did bore scope cylinders to confirm no terminal damage & I really don't want to get into replacing the primaries. As always, thank you for your candid replies.
#2
#3
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I have the kit for locking off the cams and tensioning the chain ,but i.m in the UK.I would advise using the proper kit ,I bought mine on ebay for £130 uk pounds (second hand) I will be selling this kit as soon as i have done the job
Can you provide me with a link for where you bought your master link secondary chain kit as i think my chain has streched as when i remove my lock off tools the cam moves and has slack in the chain between both cams.
Can you provide me with a link for where you bought your master link secondary chain kit as i think my chain has streched as when i remove my lock off tools the cam moves and has slack in the chain between both cams.
#4
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Yes you will need to remove the secondary sprocket to get the new chain on. The purpose of the master link chain is to replace it without having to remove the primary chain to get around it. Thus you only need to work from the top end and not take the whole timing cover off the front.
I did this replacement a year ago and car is running great. Mine had also skipped a tooth and I had to remove the cam and turn it to match the other side. I made my own tools out of scrap metal I had laying around and purchased some angle iron and screws. Click on my name and view my post on Tensioners, my turn to see those I made.
I did this replacement a year ago and car is running great. Mine had also skipped a tooth and I had to remove the cam and turn it to match the other side. I made my own tools out of scrap metal I had laying around and purchased some angle iron and screws. Click on my name and view my post on Tensioners, my turn to see those I made.
#5
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Here's the link for the kit.
Hflavell's story and pd_regan's have plenty of info on tools and procedures, good reading.
Hflavell's story and pd_regan's have plenty of info on tools and procedures, good reading.
Last edited by Norri; 04-27-2012 at 10:48 AM.
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Rae (04-27-2012)
#6
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Update: Okay, so I read hflavell's thread on tensioner-my-turn. Great write up! Looks like my question below regarding chain tensioner tool has been answered. I did not see a torque spec per say, for this, so I presume it's a slight strain to take up the slack before tightening the exhaust sproket bolt. I didn't want to put too much strain on, causing premature wearing of the block where the chain rides across. plums: Somewhat moot by now, but as noted in replies, the linked chain allows replacement without touching primary chains. I was hoping that I could snake chain around exhaust sprocket without removal, but there is not enough room between sprocket and head casting according to posts.
(Not to beat a dead horse or stay in the weeds on this, but, do I need to put a strain/load on the secondary chain across the top tensioner guide before tourqing down exhaust gear bolt, or just replace and release tensioner. Answered by hflavell thread) I will be making the lock down down bar, (and tensioning bar / updated) will probably buy the crank locating pin/lock.
Christophers Foreign Car Parts 1-609-399-2824 or e-bay.
Thanks again for your replies.
(Not to beat a dead horse or stay in the weeds on this, but, do I need to put a strain/load on the secondary chain across the top tensioner guide before tourqing down exhaust gear bolt, or just replace and release tensioner. Answered by hflavell thread) I will be making the lock down down bar, (and tensioning bar / updated) will probably buy the crank locating pin/lock.
Christophers Foreign Car Parts 1-609-399-2824 or e-bay.
Thanks again for your replies.
Last edited by Rae; 04-27-2012 at 08:34 PM. Reason: Update
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LoysJag (07-10-2012)
#7
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#8
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DONE!!! Finally. My heartfelt thanks to all of you that have gone before me, and posted guidance. blackonyx write up was very helpful and along with desire to get my kid out of my King Ranch, provided the motivation to complete task. Just finished up today & she's purring like a kitten. Thankfully my passenger side exhaust cam had only skipped one tooth when tensioner failed. Fabricated a couple of the tools and bought the crank locking tool. Everything went smoothly once I cut the dipstick tube tab as many of you have. Actually had more time in preps, and parts cleaning than wrenching. Again, thank you and my apologies for the the sometimes redundant stupid questions. You Guys & Gals are great! Time for a bourbon and cigar.
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