I'm warning you, I am very susceptible to flattery..

But then it does not take that much liquid He at -269 C / -452 F either.....

Other than the above "no comment"

 

Hi Waterdragon,
I think I have found your secret MUPPET labs design
A new scram jet that reduced air temp from 1000degrees to -150 degrees

European Space Agency clears SABRE orbital engines ? The Register

 

The basic idea is the same, but the auto system has much less surface area and much more contact time. The result "should" be a very substantial temp drop. I have not yet made or tested the system, but the following is the basic idea:

Using realllllly cold compressed gas (helium, etc) through an standard (but very long) air to air inter cooler. The system has it's own intake, activates only at WOT, and is powered by a 12 V blower. The forced air then is introduced with a "y" connector into the box where the air is sucked into the intake under vacuum, therefore 100% of the cold air source is preferentially used.

I've actually gotten really busy on a much more important project than my car (which is just a toy for me), so I may not get around to completing this system for quite some time, which is why I am now giving this explanation, rather than leave people hanging.

So nothing here is terribly revolutionary as far as using gases much colder than air in an air to air inter cooler, but using this type of system in a car is. If the inter cooler fins (yes AVOS-only fins can provide enough surface area-you were spot on again) provide enough surface area, and the contact time is long enough, you can get the air colder than is advisable to use, but I would say there is sufficient surface area and contact time could be had to get at least a 50+ degree F temp drop, maybe quite a bit more, theoretically if the drop was not enough, one could just add more inter cooler capacity if you could find the space. The obvious limitation of this system is it requires a bottle to be re filled.

I also had a completely different design that moves huge amounts of heat out electrically, but the "powers that be" tell me I may not put such technology into any public venue, so on a car is not going to happen.

Anyways, I thought it was an interesting idea, but now you see why it does not really fall into any "practical" category, just a more extreme experiment for fun, just to see what would happen.

If you don't mind the obvious risks, a much simpler tried and true set up would be to inject metered NOS or NOS+ fuel directly into the air stream, this has been proven to reduce air temps 50-100 degrees F, and of course the power adding component is also very proven.

I was just having fun designing things. I may be able to get back to this project next summer, just for kicks. By the way Liquid Helium is -452 while NOS is only -126, so the He is a bit more dangerous if it were to leak...


the actual scramjet design is still surrounded in secrecy, so certain design components cannot be discussed (national security). The above is a very dumbed down use of trickle down technology, kind of like using a high tech material and part off the space shuttle as a hammer to drive a nail...

I will say this, SCRAMJETs were working (achieved Mach 20++) before the year 2000, and much efforts have been made to get the world to believe they were not. Did you believe the Hubble really was not working for the first few months ??

 

Interesting stuff... just couple of things to consider:

1. I had a warped front brake disc on my XJR, likely because the brake cooling duct was not in place. I see you have removed yours, and with the power you will have, the brakes will heat up.

2. Why not remove the hood insulation all together if you need clearance? It will also help with engine bay temperatures, as it is insulation. Only drawback is that the hood might not be painted all the way underneath it, so it won't look as nice.

 

Yes, when I do make my mods I will retain the brake ducting as I think of it as a safety feature.

I'm going to make a different intake going into the elbow, will be 3.5" but will not stand up so high as to hit the insulation. I am removing the insulation from that immediate area though and leaving the rest for a quieter engine bay (sleeper, sleeper)