Good morning!

Xj8 3.2 V8 Executive (2001) stucked in the garage!

I got this wonderful car few months ago here in Italy.
Absolutely well kept, perfect outside and inside!
I did drove it for a couple of thousand miles (now it's about 97.000Km) and I did left in the garage as I work at sea.

Agreement with my wife was to start it and let it run for 30min every 15 days.
Whatever happened, at certain point, battery went flat and she "proactively" jump start the car!
She's absolutely sure that she made no mistake in polarity...

So When I came back at home the situation is the following:

Once you turn the key to start we'll have already several faults (I will translate them, as they show up in italian):

- Wrong component
- Fault at Shiftgear
- Excessive shiftgear temperature
- Engine in fail safe mode (emergency mode)
- Brake fluid low level
- Stability OL Control fail
- Parking Brake ON (if you remove the brake, status if the indication light will not change)

Dashboard act like crazy, almost everything on, as per:
Engine Fail, ABS fail, parking brake and a red and a yellow generic led on.
As soon you turn the key as well 10beeps and an error message will show in the AC control Panel.
Tachometer will stay to zero.
Mileage/hour counter will act randomly.
Fuel and Temp gauges stay at zero.
Miles count it's increasing like a counter.

Beside all this motor will start with no hesitation and run perfectly as usual.
Gearshift is blocked in P mode.
All other function are ok, doors, windows etc.

I did check OBD but it doesn't show nothing particular.

P1000 active
P1638 registered

I did try the "hard reset" as common practice (NEG disconnection and on the POS+ for 30sec) with no results.
I did search the forum as best as possible but found no useful advice.

Did replace battery with a Varta Dynamics.
Did check fuses in back passengers sits and booth.

If you have any advise would be great, even if I have to call a dealer (which the closest is over 100miles from me), I would like to be able to understand the situation and at least do not have him rip me off...

Thanks in advance for suggestions!

Alessandro

 

Ciao Allesandro,

Well, that is not an easy one.

My first thought was reversed polarity, although I have no idea what exactly happens if you do so.
Considering the sensitivity of anything electronic in these cars, I guess a lot of the things you describe might actually happen.

On a lighter note though, these cars are super sensitive to the battery condition.
You do mention you replaced the battery, but not sure if you did so when you got the car, or just in the last days after the problem occurred.
If the battery was in the car already, then you might be lucky.
Maybe it is just caused by the battery either low, or your battery gone bad.

Charge the battery externally, check the voltage, or even better, have it load tested while it is out.
Perhaps you can recover it, perhaps you will need an other one.
Then, if lucky, and after an other hard reset, the problems might go away.

In any case, I am totally against running a parked car every couple of weeks.
It is very polluting for the environment, and the engine oil will never get up to the temperature long enough to get rid of pollutants and condensation.

Before a longer period of non activity, you better drive the car fully hot, top of the fuel, park it, disconnect the battery and put it on a smart battery tender.
Put some extra air in the tires if it will be a long wait.
Then, do nothing until the next time you go for a ride.
But in all fairness, that is my thought, not everyone will agree.

Good luck solving this.

 

+1 for Eric's suggestions....be sure that battery is at full charge, then reconnect it. After doing so, turn the key but do not rotate the motor, and let the computer go through its diagnostic without the motor running. Then after that, turn the key off and then try starting it.

 

Thanks EricJansen and Highhorse,

Yes I did just buy a new battery now (after first fail), it's a Varta Dynamics even a bit overrated.

Today by the way I did run the car by manually unlocking the gearshift.
As I'm almost sure there are no real problems in the motor, I wanted to see if something would have changed in the ECU and eventually have a good recharge of the battery from the alternator.

So at the moment nothing, the erratic behavior of the dashboard persist.
All the rest seems fine, a part from the fact that gearshift solenoid is not activated.
Pressing the brakes pedal the lights are working fine, as i understand there is an interlock that free the gearshift solenoid when brake pedal is pressed.
Not sure if are the same contacts, or if the signal to solenoid anyway is not coming from the Body Processor Module.

However, I'm start thinking something is wrong in the CAN communication Bus.

Seems that there was not any mistake in the polarity when has been jump started.
My wife only admit that once she turn the key she did not wait for diagnostic but start to motor straight away (sic).

PS, I think one I'll fix this, next time I'll go for Eric option, to just disconnect the battery and use a top up charger for it...

 

It is a lot of reading, and not exactly the same as your problem, but as the poster went through several 'fixes', you might pick up a suggestion or two ...

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...enture-137526/

I read several other posts on the X308 and X100 (XK8) forums on similar problems like you, with different outcomes.
Suggest to use the search function within this forum.

 

I took her to a Jaguar workshop, after 2 days they call me saying that probably it's a faulty instrument pack.
As well, seem incredible to me, they said Jaguar can't provide the instrument pack anymore and eventually i need to find it my self on the internet (which eventually I will, but I'm surprised is not available anymore from maker...).

However I'm not very satisfied with the answer.
As well I asked if it's te instrument pack, how come the Gearshift Interlock solenoid is activated, which suppose to be controlled by the Body Processor Module?

I'll keep researching, unfortunately this workshop is more that 100miles from me, I can't go everyday to check the situation.

 

Automakers are only required to make parts of their production vehicles for 7 yrs from years end (for US automakers anyways). But, many parts are the same up until the body change.
There are plenty of recycle yards on the net that you can make a parts request and they will email you with prices, location and usually donor vehicle information. Here's a US one I use for example....http://car-part.com/ ....most have minimum 30 day warranties also. As long as you can provide an appropriate part number, this will save you driving about wasting your time for not.

 

They did provide me a code: LJE4300EB00V.

They assured that all other electronics cards/boards are fine.
I as well told them if they did check the bulletin 413-S484, which seem to fit the fault I Have... but they didn't seem interested.

I'm thinking to just get the car back and proceed with some more checks and eventually have more data using the Vcat codes, as with the code they gave me I can't find much...

 

I read on the UK forum that you might need a new cluster?
If you have problems getting a 2nd hand one in ITaly, I can advice you some breakers in Holland, very professional, and they shipped my new cluster all the way to Taiwan.
Replacing a cluster has some other things to know in advance, but then get back in this thread pls.

 

Yes, up to what the Service said I do need a new instrument pack.
They as well provide me the wrong part n. LJE4300EB00V, which should be LJE4300EB00D (not V).
Which this seem a new unprogrammed unit, however not easy to find.
This dealer is to far from me, and I'm not fully confident that is doing good.
As I had to tell him almost what to do by phone.

As seem really there is something wrong with he instrument pack, and they're are not putting an effort on this, my plan is to get the car back next week and start to search for one by my self, once I can look for my VIN and VCATs by my-self.

I'll definitely need some suggestion... I'll keep this posted, even if at this point maybe I should open a thread only for the Instrument pack, as this finally seem to be the problem.

 

I see you are familiar with the VIN and VCATS.

PM me if you are ready to proceed, I can privately inform you of some contacts which might be of help to you on a replacement (no commercial relations, just a happy customer).

I did an exchange of a US cluster to a EU cluster 2 years ago.
The ODO (total KM's) is stored separated from the main cluster, and in the small board under the main cluster (behind the message center).

You can separated it from your old cluster, and install with your new one, keeping your car's mileage original.

 

Well, I finally got the the car back, and I got the label.

25/05/2001
VIN F40222
Vcats IPK LJE4300BB/303

As well it's already a Modified version, compliance to Bulletin 413-S484

I'll start my search in the "market" with these data.
I have a KPH(kilometers) version, I'm not sure what happen if you mount a MPH (miles) version.
However if I do not find a KPH I definitely not have a problem to install a MPH if it does working as hardware/software...

Thanks really everybody for the help, I might open a new thread dedicated to the instrument pack.

eric I will PM you, thanks.

 

PM replied this morning.

 

So, the story it's coming to an end, even if is not a complete happy end.

After all the checks that was possible to make, I finally bought a "Instrument Pack" from Holland.
The seller was Bongers Auto-Onderdlenen http://www.bongersonderlenen.com
Very quick and professional.
Luckily as well was exactly what I needed, version LJE4300BB/303 (the last 3 digit where not specified from the seller, so when I saw them I was really happy).
Execept a couple of burned out lamps everything was OK, was set in German but I easily changed language.

Unfortunately the unit has 170.000Km, where my car only had 97.000Km.
At the moment I found no solution.
The Odometer unit apparently is just a display, getting the signal from the main board, where the data are stored.
Anyway I kept my original instruments and enclosures and I did swap the mail board from the "new" unit.

The job in the car took me very little time, once you remove the instrument trim there are only 4 screws, and you need to be careful with the connectors.
Took me less than one hour to do the swap of the Instrument Pack.

Everything is working again, including shift interlock solenoid, cruise control, rear acoustic advisor, all instruments and signalling.
Price was very competitive, 100Euro including shipping.

Here below a picture of the main board of the instrument pack, before mounting I gave a visual inspection and a very delicate cleaning.
I did use antistatic precautions.




So at the moment I'm happy I just need to solve the miles problem, which is not a real problem because I will not sell my Xj8.
The worst part is the unbelievable unprofessional treatment received by the Jaguar dealer, (which they did as well scratch the car...).
I'm thinking to report this to Jaguar headquarters, in Italy.

 

Well, as much of a pain and time it took, that's good to hear she's up and going. The next time you store her, and so your wife doesn't get into trouble with you (even though she's innocent), use a battery tender to maintain proper voltage on the battery. We have a brand in the US called Battery Tender (I have 3 for my cars) and I would also recommend a quality (not necessarily expensive, nor cheap) jumper unit like the XP-10 (https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-cures-167063/). It has features to prevent cross polarity hookups, surges, will act immediately to jump the car (no waiting for a charge) and will even charge your phone and laptop or tablet.
At least by using at least a battery tender, you'll prevent surges to your system and hopefully prevent another instrument pack issue.

 

Alessandro,

Happy to read that you got your problems solved, must be a big relief (especially for the wife ).

I replied your PM separately.

Although I don't use them on my Jaguars (no electric outlets in my garage), I do agree with Highhorse on the tender.
I used to use them on all my motorbikes (big twins which need a lot of power to start-up) and they always worked like a charm.

Eric