Should i buy this 2000 xjr
#21
I replaced the heater hoses on my 2000 XJR about a year ago. The parts are actually very cheap (about $15 for one hose and $20 for the other). And replacing them is not particularly difficult, just time consuming and you must have a good complement of tools. It took me the better part of a weekend. It's a very doab;e job though if you are mechanically inclined and have a full tool set, don't let that job scare you.
But the shock towers sound scary. Any chance of pics of the actual separation? And the rust in the quarters makes me suspicious that the dreaded torque box rust is there too. Look under the car very carefully for more hidden rust.
All in all it sounds like you have more on your plate than what would allow for a sub $2000 XJR. it could be a hell of a steal, but I would expect a LOT of work down the road. I'd wait and find a more solid car, which can be easily found in the $6000 range and would likely be a lot less headache.
But the shock towers sound scary. Any chance of pics of the actual separation? And the rust in the quarters makes me suspicious that the dreaded torque box rust is there too. Look under the car very carefully for more hidden rust.
All in all it sounds like you have more on your plate than what would allow for a sub $2000 XJR. it could be a hell of a steal, but I would expect a LOT of work down the road. I'd wait and find a more solid car, which can be easily found in the $6000 range and would likely be a lot less headache.
From my quick look and drive of the car I noted:
- Tires bald & wheels mis-matched
- Brake rotors rotten
- Coolant smell & overheating
- Clunking noises coming from front end (could've been shock towers)
- Vehicle pulled hard to the right
- Very dirty & "ratty" under hood
- Door locks inop
- Trunk didn't open
- Headiner sagging
- Cupholder broken
- Zero maintenance history
And I did not do a thorough inspection on the car, these were just the things I observed as I was going over the car; it probably has many more imperfections that I didn't notice. This car has been driven hard and put away wet (while covered in a layer of road salt).
#23
#24
I'm willing to put work and a little money into one! I just don't wanna end up ***** deep! Don't mind body work myself! Unless it's just ****ed like this one! The floors are just shot
#25
Best value for the money is a bad trans or broken timing chain. Body/paint should be 85-90% interior should be 80% or higher. Provided these requirements are met, I have paid between $800-$2000USD, not a penny more.
I am terrible at body work/paint, so that's why I steer clear of those kinds of projects.
I am terrible at body work/paint, so that's why I steer clear of those kinds of projects.
#26
Best value for the money is a bad trans or broken timing chain. Body/paint should be 85-90% interior should be 80% or higher. Provided these requirements are met, I have paid between $800-$2000USD, not a penny more. I am terrible at body work/paint, so that's why I steer clear of those kinds of projects.
#27
#29
I understand there are better ways to spend my time and money(priorities) how ever we all have hobbies that vary from one another! I'm fortunate to have a beautiful smart Ladie who is down for a project! Down with body work, down with learning about the automotive topic! When I met her, she didn't kno the difference between a Mazda and a corolla! Now in conversation, she is diagnosing issues with solutions! We have taken on projects In the past together, as we built a 1952 dodge crusader ratrod and are hoping to find a mid 50s ford/chev pickup for another challenge ! So it's not like the work or project (if u will) would really centre myself away, it would bring us together! Now that being said, everyone here is right about the strut towers! That is a huge deal! But if the structural supports were intact! It would have been an easy tackle! Guess that jag just wasn't for me! But I'll find another in better shape! Again very thankful for the right guidance from you guys!
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