Stability Control and ABS warning
#1
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Can anyone help with an issue I am now experiencing. My 1999 X308 has been SORN for 5 months. I have had a CTek charger on it for the whole time. (I start it once a month for 1/2 hour each month.) The battery was new two year ago and has a five year guarantee. Reading previous post on the forum, some have suggested the battery as the issue. I really think this isn’t the case. However, the 'Stability Control Fail' and 'ABS' light is lit. I have used a diagnostic to check what is showing up and all that is showing is C1095. Has anyone got any ideas?
#2
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I don't know what SORN is, but what I would do is test the battery, drive it around the block even if the warning lights are on, and then perform a hard reset. Disconnect the negative battery cable for 15 seconds. Touch it to the positive cable, which will drain any remaining voltage in the system. Hook it back up and see if that fixes it. Sometimes a gentle 'whap upside the head' is required for these cars. That's what a reset will do. You can do the reset first, but I'd drive it around the block first just to remind the car that it's still alive!
#3
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#4
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I have soldered dozens and dozens of ABS modules. I first cut one open in the late 1990s because I was curious as to why the C1095 was a constant 'thing'.
Found the cracked solder joints and reflowed the connection.
I posted this finding over 20 years ago.
Since then I collected all the modules I could find and fixed quite a few.
A soldering iron should get the problem fixed.
Good Luck with the repair.
Found the cracked solder joints and reflowed the connection.
I posted this finding over 20 years ago.
Since then I collected all the modules I could find and fixed quite a few.
A soldering iron should get the problem fixed.
Good Luck with the repair.
The following 6 users liked this post by motorcarman:
A.J.P (09-04-2022),
brucefal (10-13-2022),
exjay8 (12-17-2022),
Markus x308 3.2 (09-17-2022),
RJ237 (09-01-2022),
and 1 others liked this post.
#5
#6
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exjay8 (12-17-2022),
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#8
#9
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SORN means Statutory Off Road Notification a British requirement if you do not use your vehicle on a public road. It saves taxing your vehicle.
i have now found that the issue is with the ABS module and the wire solders inside the unit are likely to need re- soldering which i have arranged to be undertaken. Apparently, they break down over time and it is a known problem on X300’s & X308’s.
i have now found that the issue is with the ABS module and the wire solders inside the unit are likely to need re- soldering which i have arranged to be undertaken. Apparently, they break down over time and it is a known problem on X300’s & X308’s.
#10
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We should have noticed your location. Then we would have been able to determine what SORN means.
Here in the US, most states have a registration tax that is low enough, it seldom matters much. If I remember
correctly, Florida was a bit on the high side and I knew California to be moderate.
Here in the US, most states have a registration tax that is low enough, it seldom matters much. If I remember
correctly, Florida was a bit on the high side and I knew California to be moderate.
#11
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thanks for your explanation of SORN since fellow members here are globally. some reginal specific regulations may be unknow elsewhere.
most places in the world, vehicle registration classes are also by engine displacement. that is true in Hong Kong and China. anything over3.0 liter is considered an expensive car to keep. you will see most cars are all around 2.0
you will see like Benz S300 or BMW 730
most places in the world, vehicle registration classes are also by engine displacement. that is true in Hong Kong and China. anything over3.0 liter is considered an expensive car to keep. you will see most cars are all around 2.0
you will see like Benz S300 or BMW 730
#12
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
thanks for your explanation of SORN since fellow members here are globally. some reginal specific regulations may be unknow elsewhere.
most places in the world, vehicle registration classes are also by engine displacement. that is true in Hong Kong and China. anything over3.0 liter is considered an expensive car to keep. you will see most cars are all around 2.0
you will see like Benz S300 or BMW 730
most places in the world, vehicle registration classes are also by engine displacement. that is true in Hong Kong and China. anything over3.0 liter is considered an expensive car to keep. you will see most cars are all around 2.0
you will see like Benz S300 or BMW 730
#13
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
ME TOO! Car has been working flawlessly until Sunday a week ago when I got the amber ABS light and TRAC and ASW warnings. Did a hard reset, checked all fuses, grabbed almost all of the forum threads, and YouTubes and dug in.
Pulled the left front, and cleaned the sensor (what should have been a twenty minute job turned into three hours: some tech had destroyed the 8MM bolt, so up and chase down the easy out, then it wouldn't move, up and find the Blaster; up and down to find an effective extension combo, a hammer to seat the EZ off; then as it begins to move, stop praying and tried harder -- finally off; up to clean {electronic cleaner and old fashion spark plug brush worked best}; reinstalled) and rehung the tire (took forever to get the ****ing tire on; more later). Since it was over 90* -- whipped, soaking wet. Quit. Tested; no banana.
Next day: experienced, only up once to find a different tool; off in ten minutes; ten to clean and reinstall; thirty (IMI 30) minutes to rehang the tire. At 80 getting to ****ing old to hang a tire! Tested, no banana.
Next day, rears: twenty minutes right sides, fifteen to hang the tire (getting pissed remembering watching the kids at Discount Tire -- none bigger than 150#s soaking wet -- hang tires all day!!); to the left side, getting the hang of it: all done in twenty minutes including the tire, Thank the lord for Ryobi impact wrench and electric 1/4 in screwdriver. On the left, I hit the studs first shot -- impacted down those lugs in a heart beat. Out the gate, turn left: lights out -- WooHoo!
Down a mile to Newtown Road, U turn, back home, turning left into my condo's parking place, light comes on. Ain't Miller Time, need something a whole lot stronger. Next day, wife and I head out to dinner, light is on, but as soon as I turn left onto Virginia Beach Blvd, light goes out. Valet the car; light stays out. Next day taking her to her bible class, light is back on. Leaving the church, light is out. Coming out of Aldo's, light come on at start up; turn it off, light stays off . . .
Beginning to sound like an intermittent loss of connection in the box, ne? I can solder; I have quarter sized hole saw . . .
Couple of issues: our local JLR ******** (of which I have bought three cars, 4 more counting the older Land Rover dealer) have decided they are not going to work on any car older than ten years. Supply and demand being what it is, my local Jag and Rover indy (Abacus) is swamped and can't get to it for three weeks: even then, they are not likely to want to open and solder . . . their time is too precious due to demand. At 80, I am too old to pull the damn thing myself, nor do I have that special socket needed to remove it (I believe I could horse it past the brake lines w/o opening the hydraulics). We have an automotive electric shop that works on older cars, might check there; also maybe the shop I bought it from). In Virginia Beach, if any have suggestions. Or, maybe just hope the light stays off (hope is a lousy strategy -- Sun Tzu, ca 2016 BC).
Thoughts?
Sorry, needed to rant. My Yankee suck; at least Washington beat the Ravens last night.
Pulled the left front, and cleaned the sensor (what should have been a twenty minute job turned into three hours: some tech had destroyed the 8MM bolt, so up and chase down the easy out, then it wouldn't move, up and find the Blaster; up and down to find an effective extension combo, a hammer to seat the EZ off; then as it begins to move, stop praying and tried harder -- finally off; up to clean {electronic cleaner and old fashion spark plug brush worked best}; reinstalled) and rehung the tire (took forever to get the ****ing tire on; more later). Since it was over 90* -- whipped, soaking wet. Quit. Tested; no banana.
Next day: experienced, only up once to find a different tool; off in ten minutes; ten to clean and reinstall; thirty (IMI 30) minutes to rehang the tire. At 80 getting to ****ing old to hang a tire! Tested, no banana.
Next day, rears: twenty minutes right sides, fifteen to hang the tire (getting pissed remembering watching the kids at Discount Tire -- none bigger than 150#s soaking wet -- hang tires all day!!); to the left side, getting the hang of it: all done in twenty minutes including the tire, Thank the lord for Ryobi impact wrench and electric 1/4 in screwdriver. On the left, I hit the studs first shot -- impacted down those lugs in a heart beat. Out the gate, turn left: lights out -- WooHoo!
Down a mile to Newtown Road, U turn, back home, turning left into my condo's parking place, light comes on. Ain't Miller Time, need something a whole lot stronger. Next day, wife and I head out to dinner, light is on, but as soon as I turn left onto Virginia Beach Blvd, light goes out. Valet the car; light stays out. Next day taking her to her bible class, light is back on. Leaving the church, light is out. Coming out of Aldo's, light come on at start up; turn it off, light stays off . . .
Beginning to sound like an intermittent loss of connection in the box, ne? I can solder; I have quarter sized hole saw . . .
Couple of issues: our local JLR ******** (of which I have bought three cars, 4 more counting the older Land Rover dealer) have decided they are not going to work on any car older than ten years. Supply and demand being what it is, my local Jag and Rover indy (Abacus) is swamped and can't get to it for three weeks: even then, they are not likely to want to open and solder . . . their time is too precious due to demand. At 80, I am too old to pull the damn thing myself, nor do I have that special socket needed to remove it (I believe I could horse it past the brake lines w/o opening the hydraulics). We have an automotive electric shop that works on older cars, might check there; also maybe the shop I bought it from). In Virginia Beach, if any have suggestions. Or, maybe just hope the light stays off (hope is a lousy strategy -- Sun Tzu, ca 2016 BC).
Thoughts?
Sorry, needed to rant. My Yankee suck; at least Washington beat the Ravens last night.
Last edited by Jhartz; 08-23-2023 at 11:32 AM.
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