UPDATE - SUCCESS - The Jag LIVES!

This morning I after talking with Cambo he informed me of the good news, that being that he managed to source the TIBBE code for my car. He is the Man to talk to !
The locksmiths tried to cut the keys prior to this by using guess work with blank keys being inserted into the lock and looking for visual clues (indentations)as to the make up of the barrel lock, but after cutting 2 keys they ran out of blanks and had to reorder a set of blanks.

I contacted the locksmith SYDNEY SECURITY LOCKSMITHS, Sydney, Australia. after receiving the tibbe code, and they showed up quicksmart an hour later on a Saturday figuring an easy job was at hand.
The locksmith takes the blank jaguar key and normally from indentations on the brass key after "jimmiying" the key in the barrel looks to cut it on a small grinder. Obviously its a trial and error approach. That's the normal procedure , but with the 8 number TIBBE code he can easily cut the key, its the TIBBE code that specifies the geometry of the cuts of the key.
So he proceeded to cut the key in 2 minutes, and the door opened.
The alarm did not go off.
The alarm therefore is linked to the correct cut key and NOT the transponder chip in the key itself.
With the new key (prior to it being programmed) the doors/boot/glovebox will all open and the alarm is activated and deactivated by locking and unlocking the door.
The only thing a non programmed key will not do is start the car, that's where the programming occurs. I assume (but cant confirm) that the steeringwheel lock would be deactivated with a non-programmed key.

After opening the car, the locksmith hooked into the OBD2 outlet of the car and
with a small tablet pc started to reprogramme the cars computer. After a few failed attempts he had to change the chip in the key. Its a small 5 mm long glass pill shaped vessel inside the plastic portion of the key. He said different year models had different chips.
The car then started up.
Importantly he said the old stolen keys would no longer work to start the car, so he did not clone the old chip information but rather changed the specifications in the cars computer as to what key can start the car.
The only thing left to do now is to change the barrel locks, as the old keys will still open the doors up and therefore disarm the alarm. I am ordering those parts + new Fobs, but for now my car is mobile and almost secure.

Its good to know some locksmiths can do all this, as after many enquires I found that most locksmiths cant open this jaguar (1999 X308 Sovereign LWB 4.0 V8). Only 2 outfits said they could do the job, the rest of the dozen or so outfits said they couldn't do it. Even the local jaguar dealer informed to me that locksmiths may be able to open the car but "no way" would they be able to start the car up.

I paid $Au385 for the service, 2 keys (with out jaguar logo otherwise identical) cut and programmed. This was also luckily the cheapest price quote of the lot from my enquiries. I went with them as they said they could do it and because they worked on European cars.
As I mentioned my next job is the installation of the new barrel lock set, in which there are 2 pre cut black keys and 1 green valet key (JLM12328) + 4 barrel locks
. All that is required then is to programme them.

My advice to others in this situation is to spend the time to locate a good auto locksmith that works on "European cars". Not all of them can do it., see if you can obtain the TIBBE code (I was lucky), but even without this they will eventually by trial and error be able to cut the key. They can then through the OBD2 connector reprogramme it all, don't believe your local jaguar dealer on this issue. its all possible.
I will update this post when I do the barrel lock installation.

My most sincere thanks to Cambo, he provided part numbers, and other information for which I am grateful for, all out of goodwill.
A true gentleman.

best regards
Peter

 

Glad you are back on the road mate!

Let me know when the new barrels, key's and remotes are here, we'll get it sorted.

I'm surprised that a professional locksmith would use a trial and error method to work out the tibbe code, when there are tools that do this very easily, like this Ford Tibbe Premium Lock Pick and Decoder Tool + Case - UKBumpKeys

But yeah in the end it's much easier if you can get hold of the code, I owe my dealership friends a couple of drinks.

Interesting that the locksmith had some aftermarket software tool which could reprogram the key. But I guess it's not so surprising that the process has been reverse engineered. It's a 17 year old car so not the most cutting edge security.

 

3 cheers for Cambo & another 3 for the locksmith!

 

+1

 

Excellent news!!! And not one coat hanger damaged in the process

 

Well done lads and especially to Cambo for fronting up to the plate with the essential info!
Glad you got it sorted....that's one level of stress lowered after your recent problems ;o))

Cheers!

 

Hello all, I'm here to do the final update. Prehaps my dilemma will help others.
I paid $Au1766.98 all up for the parts, and the insurance covered it all.

First I changed the glovebox lid barrel lock. The manual says to take out the entire
glovebox, but in reptrospect it can be done in situ, albeit you may need to be on your knees and crouched down. Basically you just open the handle wideopen while poking inside a corner of it to release it out. The handle mechanism is all plastic inside, so your in constant fear you will break it, but its ok.
Then I did the boot lock, you pull the carpet out on the rear boot along the edge, remove the central lock cover to free the carpet going underneath
and then remove the boot lock. To do so remove 2 nuts holding the boot lock to the boot, but then you must disconnect the metal rod
connected tot he lock by a plastic square holder. This is awkward plastic, best thing to do is to apply lubricant to it, again your hoping not to break it.
This plastic piece seems square and one side of this square box acts as a clip and must be lifted and pushed out simultaneously. Awkward.

Once that's loose the lock will come out but there is a plastic insert on the end of the lock which is itself plastic.. DO NOT TRY and press fit it out, its not designed to be imo. Its like a one way press fit. What I did was actual destroy the plastic lock portion to release the other plastic insert which is to be reconnected on the new lock. You can see in one of the photos I destroyed the plastic . The new boot lock already has this plastic end, so the insert can be pressed into it.
Prehaps some brave soul will try and separate the 2 pieces, maybe with heat and lubricant, but I believe the pieces will break and require a 1 week wait for some comparitevly expensive replacement.
Make sure youuse lubricant on the rubber face of the boot lock when installing, thatway the rubber will spread even . My old rubber was disintegrating on the old boot lock.
wile your there, check out the "SELF CUTTING NUTS" holding the rear boot chrome strip to the body, mine were rusted, seems they were just mild steel at factory , inserted on painted metal. I clean the smallish rust around them, replainted the boot inside and replaced the nuts.

The ignition barrel is actually simpler... remove the 2 long screws from underneath the steering wheel box.. some grease monkey has changed mine to incorrect threads, which I remedied. Suggest you replace them with an allen key type screw, as theres more positive force on those screw heads than phillps head which can be a nightmare to drill out given the depth at which they are inserted in this area. You can leave the bottom half of the steering wheel box hanging, no need to disengage the wires and use a coathanger wire , bent at the last 10mm on an angle. Take the wire and at approximately 11oclock to 12 oclock position (from the face of ignitionbarrel view point) about 3 cm inward along th barrel there will be a small 2mm diameter hole on top in the barrel.... you cannot see it, just feel it. there is a button inside that 2mm hole.. you must depress that button WHILE have the key inside the barrel lock and turning it to position 1.
SO this is important to note, you must HAVE A KEY that opens the ignition barrel lock to position 1 AND then push that button down.
Jaguar made a small service bulletin on this operation BUT DID NOT PUT IT IN THE MANUAL , obviously to stop thieves.
Contact me for a copy of it.
Once that button is pushed out, pull on the key outwards and the barrel lock will slide out.

Lastly was the DOOR lock. What a PAIN.
you have to remove the leather and wood trim.. its a miracle how that wood trim doesn't crack imo.. then you must remove the door handle completely which will mean that the door handle RUBBER SEAL will disintegrate. I ordered a pair from the US at $Au100, branding is mtcparts.com, they fit perfectly after some cutting and snipping. They must be cut at the back "H " section to install, but with some pushing when installing they are perfect.
To remove thedoor handle it must be disconnected from the rods inside, but there is a metal COVER, the biggest pain ever invented. The manual says it can be removed after 2 nuts are removed, its impossible, the manual is wrong. The only way to remove it is to loosen the handle from the inside and protrude the handle out and THEN remove that metal cover I mentioned. After that metal cover is out you disconnect the rods, best to mark there current setting. (Ask how I know that's the best course of action). After removeing the door handle its just one screw that hold s the lock in place.. change the handle rubber seal and reinstall.
Then the fun begins.. those rods connecting the handle to the lock mechanism of the door must be PRECISE in how they are reconnected as the manual key lock approach may require a different setting to the FOB lock approach.. make sure you test the key FOB lock AND the manual key lock before you close it all up. Like wise for the boot etc. The problem is you can only reconnect those rods which control the sensitivity of the lock AFTER you insert that metal plate. If you just connect those rods, you cannot return that metal plate. So the procedure is .. 1partial rod connection,2 metal plate install, 3 then complete rod connection. thenyou can test to see if it allworks ok..else back you go. so best to mark the current setting of the rods.

After this all . I programmed the FOBs, which are a leap and bound improvement over the old ones I had.. Brilliant.

Then after that I had the locksmith come for a second time and reprogramme the new OEM keys

Now the car is concours again.. the way God intended.

The work didn't take more than a few days amongst all the swearing and cursing, but the car is now better than it was all OEM parts, nice shiny locks with new snappy FOBs and new door handle seals. Importantly its all secure now, properly done.
some photos below
regards
Peter

 

Far out Pete....you gave me a headache just reading this...I just hope that such a chain of events never happens to me....well done to you and your locksmith ;o))

 

maximus, yes 1 set of keys missing makes a lot of problems.
keep your keys with you and the spare in a safe, leave no keys laying around. Even if just one pair of keys goes you stuffed. all barrel locks to be changed and the keys too and the reprogramming.
Fobs ok can be reprogrammed in absence but there 200 pounds for pair
must say, new keys and fobs are better than before + door handle gasket is perfect. they all disintegrate over time.

 

Oh also, I should mention incase someone wants to know, that once the new keys were cut buy the locksmith (first batch of keys) to open the car, surprisingly the car alarm did not activate.
I'm glad its all behind me
regards
Peter