Good morning folks.

I've just acquired a rather fetching Roman Bronze 2000 X308 which was on it's way to being scraped. I've been going through it and it seems in not too bad shape at all, mostly electrical issues so I'm keen to try and save it and enjoy it. Looking for some help with the stop lights and key fob.

Stop lights.

1. Left & right stop lights not working
2. Warning on dash message display
3. Bulbs look fine
4. Brake peddle switch is ok
5. High level brake light is ok
6. All other lights in clusters are ok

Key fob.

1. Was working but stopped after reconnecting the SLCM.

Spending a few hours researching on here, the above leads me to believe relays & fuses are ok as they are shared with high level light, is that correct? If so looks like SLCM is next to investigate. I checked connections and examined the board and can see no obvious issue visually. Unfortunately when I returned the SLCM the key fob stopped working. I have tried reprogramming (car enters learning mode) but no response from car when pressing buttons on the fob (I have replaced the battery).

Really not sure how to further diagnose the issue, I'm a complete electrical newb and would really appreciate any help.

Thank you,
Andrew.


Is it correct to only have 2 connection blocks on the SLCM?


This wasn't connected? Normal? Seems like a lot of harness that isn't going anywhere!!

 

Click on twice to magnify , right click to drag around

Does the SLCM have the correct software # , the master software tag is under the forward bonnet as a label near the windshield

SLCM part # ?

The SLCM may need a "hard reset "which you can do ypurself but there are cautions on your stereo head lock out for a non - USA model

A hard reset is more that removing the positive battery cable for a moment

 

Was the SLCM reconnected with the positive battery cable removed ?

There may be a error in powered pins connecting out of sequence on the SLCM as it needs to be totally unpowered in hooking up

But once out of sequence to get it back to zero state requires a hard reset

 

Was the SLCM reconnected with the positive battery cable removed ?
No. I realised too late that this was probably very unwise.

I think I'll need the hard reset procedure please.

Not sure how to check SLCM software version


Is this the master software label?


SLCM part number

 

I should add that other SLCM functions are ok (alarm, central locking via key, boot release button). Only key fob and brake lights are in-op.

 

Key fob working.

My dumbass put the antenna ribbon cable inside the SLCM around the wrong way. So its just the stop lights that don't want to play ball.

 

Let us see if you can do something other then a hard reset

The stop light socket assembly has a history of the ground being bad , but both sides ?

is the bulb sockets getting power attempting to light a bulb ?

 

Thank you, will check tomorrow. It's dark and cold here now.

 

Left
Blue (stop light) 4.3v
Red (tail light) 11v

Right
Orange/Yellow (stop light) 0.0v
Green (tail light) 11v

Looks like someone has had a go at this before. There was a wire (removed by me now) running from left blue to right orange/yellow.

Left


Right

 

Checked the SLCM output and getting the same as at the lamp cluster connector

pin3 - right stop 0.0v
pin9 - left stop 4.4v

pin1 - input 12v from brake switch relay? - seems to be 0.0v too. My wire is O but diagram shows OG so not 100% this is the input.

 

The SLCM is very common to replace. Yes, they’re work arounds but, they’ll make a brake lights fault on the instrument cluster every time you depress the brake pedal.

 

Starting to see that this is a very common issue.

 

See page 62 and 118 for the pin 1

Researching . looking for pin 1

Stop lamp relay # 5 socket # 1 ? , should be hot at all times

jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/jagxj2000.pdf

 

I BT2-1 BRAKE SWITCH STATUS GROUND (BRAKE ON)

pin 1 should be 0v when brake is on? So maybe that's correct that I'm seeing that?

Which is relay #5? The relay diagram I've seen show them all as R1.

 

Assuming I BT2-1 BRAKE SWITCH STATUS GROUND (BRAKE ON) - I just tested and pin #3 doesn't go to ground. It remains at 18 Ohms where the brake peddle is pressed or not.

Edit pin #1

 

Weak Wifi

 

The brake switch is 2 switches in one package so there are 4 pins , some other uses are cruise control disconnect and others

You have the 3rd center stop light so you can assume you have a good brake switch and the ground path through the ignition switch

 

pin #1 always hot

 

Wifi keeps going in and out

Let me put together the info you provided

 

Thank you. I really appreciate your help.