Storing XJR - Disconnect battery
#1
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This may be a stupid question. I am storing my XJR for the winter, and I want to unhook the battery. If I remove the negative cable only, will the battery be disconnected? From reading some posts, it appears you unhook the negative first in all cases, so that means I shouldn't unhook just the positive. So do I need to unhook both to disconnect the battery, or can I just unhook the negative?
Thanks
Thanks
#2
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Yes, pulling the negative terminal only does disconnect the battery.
The reason it is recommended to remove the negative terminal first is so as you are wrenching the positive terminal (as in when changing out the battery), an accidental touch between the wrench on the pos terminal and the frame, body or engine won't effectively short across the battery - very dangerous. With the negative terminal disconnected, a touch to frame is no issue.
The reason it is recommended to remove the negative terminal first is so as you are wrenching the positive terminal (as in when changing out the battery), an accidental touch between the wrench on the pos terminal and the frame, body or engine won't effectively short across the battery - very dangerous. With the negative terminal disconnected, a touch to frame is no issue.
Last edited by QuadManiac; 11-22-2009 at 07:16 PM.
#4
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Don't forget to put Sta-Bil in the gasoline - stale gas can really gum things up and get expensive. If you are leaving the wheels on the ground, you should pump the tires up to 45-50psi also, to reduce flat-spotting. Also put some "Bar Bait" or D-con under the bonnet - rodents can nest and chew wires/hoses, causing real headaches.
When you first restart it in the Spring, pull the fuel pump relay (in the boot, near battery) and crank the starter a bit to circulate oil - a lot easier than having a loss of compression due to cylinder wash-down. And reduce the tire pressure to your preferred level.
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Spinal cord disorders forums
When you first restart it in the Spring, pull the fuel pump relay (in the boot, near battery) and crank the starter a bit to circulate oil - a lot easier than having a loss of compression due to cylinder wash-down. And reduce the tire pressure to your preferred level.
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Spinal cord disorders forums
Last edited by Markus; 05-14-2011 at 07:53 AM.
#5
#7
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Mine did require a code last week after a two day battery disconnect; my XJ8 was not imported and has resided in Southern California all it's life, so I will assume that it is US spec. I called the dealer and, with the last 4 digits of my VIN they gave me the code without hesitation or question... a US dealer. I must believe that the 'US spec' information regarding radio codes (I have heard this before) is either incorrect or at least is not always the case.
Last edited by QuadManiac; 11-23-2009 at 11:33 PM.
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#8
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I've done all the recommended preparations as mentioned above with the exception of getting and storing the Radio code. Mine is a US model and I contacted Jag when I bought it, and asked about the radio code and was informed I didn't need one. So it looks like some have a code and some do not. Mine is a '03 MY.
The only thing new to me was "pull the fuel pump relay". What purpose does that serve? I'm guessing it pumps gas to the motor so it starts quicker? And how complicated is finding that relay?
Thanks again guys.
The only thing new to me was "pull the fuel pump relay". What purpose does that serve? I'm guessing it pumps gas to the motor so it starts quicker? And how complicated is finding that relay?
Thanks again guys.
#9
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By pulling the fuel pump relay this prevents gas from being pumped to the cylinders. Thus, the car won't start. Cranking the engine then pumps oil, lubricating the engine's innards before it can start.
These cars are notorious for flooding if started, run for only a few seconds, then shut down. This is because on attempted re-start, excess petrol washes the oil from the cylinder walls, and compression is lost. Pulling the fuel pump relay before cranking thus lubricates the cylinders in advance, insuring compression.
One replaces the fuel pump relay after a few cranks, enabling the car to start. Look in your owners manual for the relay location.
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These cars are notorious for flooding if started, run for only a few seconds, then shut down. This is because on attempted re-start, excess petrol washes the oil from the cylinder walls, and compression is lost. Pulling the fuel pump relay before cranking thus lubricates the cylinders in advance, insuring compression.
One replaces the fuel pump relay after a few cranks, enabling the car to start. Look in your owners manual for the relay location.
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Last edited by Norri; 11-25-2012 at 11:38 AM. Reason: Link Removed
#10
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You also could not disconect the battery, and run the car once a week through the winter to keep it operating. I stored mine last year and with a full tank of gas you can make it through 2 years or better at idol. I used 1/4 tank for a 6 month span. I would start it up every weekend in the garage WITH DOOR OPEN and run it for ten minutes after it got up to operating temp. Altogether it was about a 30min run. My garage is away from the house but I left the door open because the moister from the exhaust will cause the coolant pressure to rise and you will bust a hose or more. Leave the door open just enough though because the exhaust will kill any rodent in the garage (I found three mice when I took the car out in spring).
Do inflate the tires though so you dont get flat spots. If you dont they only take a few nice rides to contore the tires back to normal again. no big deal but when you take it out and want the Jag ride your used to you can notice the spots for the first 50 miles or so.
Just something else to consider.
Do inflate the tires though so you dont get flat spots. If you dont they only take a few nice rides to contore the tires back to normal again. no big deal but when you take it out and want the Jag ride your used to you can notice the spots for the first 50 miles or so.
Just something else to consider.
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