One day without a warning my front driver side brakes started to make a horrible grinding noise. There was no high pitch noise from a sensor or anything. Only a metal on metal harsh grinding sound. I posted about this before, but here's what I'd like to know before I go buy new rotors and pads... If my problem was worn out pads, wouldn't both front brakes be equally worn and making the noise? I do know that at least one of the front rotors is warped and causing vibrations when braking. Also can someone recommend a place to get inexpensive good quality rotors and pads? Thank you.

 

Pads seldom wear exactly evenly and ten year old calipers are likely to be haning up some, if not a lot. There are lots of places to buy rotors and pads- check the vendor directory or go to the local parts house. Many folks prefer ceramic pads due yo low fade and less dust on the wheels and Akebono is a favorite brand I push my Jags pretty hard and have had pretty good luck with Advance Auto rotors and ceramic pads and they are cheap. Ceramic pads generally fade last in multiple stops, but they do take more pedal presure for equivalent braking.
Be sure to check everything, and consider rebuilding the calipers even if you do not see any obvious signs of a problem. You can get exchange calipers for about $50.00- rebuilding them yourself is NOT a good first time brake task.

 

On my vehicles, front inside driver's side pads always seem to wear out first... don't know if it's because I usually drive alone, adding a couple hundred pounds to the left side, or if it's my driving style, or crowned roads, or what... but it sure seems to be common for me.

 

Hi new user, just some input... I put nearly a hundred miles of stop and go city traffic on my xjr daily... from that experience, I can say my fronts always wear down faster than my rears, and my drivers side pads wear down faster than the passenger side... always. Why this is I'm not sure, but I feel it's pretty normal... in fact, I know I'm in for brakes again here shortly, and probably turning the rotors again. The car brakes perfectly straight however and doesn't tug any direction when braking hard.

 

Thanks for the replies guys.
I wonder why I never heard the familiar brake squeaky sound. It just went from not making any sound at all to a grinding metal noise.
The local autozone has the pads for about $30. Not sure what brand they are but for that price I say why not. Now I have to figure out how to remove those 2 bolts holding the calipers, they were so tight last time I tried to get them off that I had to give up.

 

Some manufacturers spec brake pads that have stiff wires that poke out and rub the rotors when they get low. They squeak to remind you that it is time to check the brakes. I'm a little surprised that the brakes on these expensive cars do not have electronic sensors. I suppose they figure that if you can afford a $70K+ car, you can afford to have someone inspecting/maintaining it.
Oh, and you'll need a breaker bar to get those carrier bolts off.

 

I have heard that only the 2 allen bolts (the ones with the rubber cover) need to come off in order to remove the caliper and pads. Can someone who've done this job before please tell me which of the 2 sets of bolts I need to remove? Thanks

 

This is a procedure for my old 95 xj6 and I assume your 2001 is near the same. The only thing I would add is that you apply grease to the hex bolts to lubricate the action on the caliper.

I recently replaced both the front and rear brakes on my 95xj6 and I had no problems. They were similar to those on an American car. Remove the wheel and you will see the caliper. On the inboard of the caliper you will see 2 rubber caps that cover the hex bolts that hold the caliper in place. Remove the caps and identify the proper size hex driver and remove the hex bolts. They may be a little hard to remove if the lubricant that is on it is old and dry. Once you get them out remove the spring clip that is on the outboard of the caliper. At that point lift the caliper up and away from the disk. Keep in mind not to twist or bend the brake fluid line any more than necessary and do not let the caliper hang by the line. Use a small c clamp to retract the caliper making room for the new brakes. When doing this take your time and do not put it into a bind. Apply even pressure on the cup. “Oh” I forgot make sure that your brake fluid does not overflow. (I know of people that will open and bleed the brake fluid at the caliper when retracting the caliper I would not recommend bleeding it this way) . They say it bleeds the old out allowing you to add new fluid. When you put it back together make sure that the hex bolt is clean and new grease is applied. As for the rear the process is the same with the one exception, you may find that the hose is in the way of you accessing the hex bolt. If that is the case get a longer hex tool for the bolt. Good Luck!

 

Thank you Gus. So once again I hear that the 2 bolts I need to remove are the hex bolts that have the caps on them. NOT the 2 other bigger bolts? So what are those for? Thanks

 

You will see two bolts holding the anchor bracket and the two hex bolts under the rubber plug that holds the caliper. This is not rocket science if you have done brakes before you can do this, hell I did!

This is a job I did on my S-Type http://www.gusglikas.com/images/Auto...RearBrakes.pdf not the same but similar.

 

They are for removing the caliper, which is not required to replace the pads OR the rotor, only for a caliper failure.

 

The hex bolts hold the caliper in place but also provide a sliding affect that is necessary for the caliper to work properly and give you even wear on the pads. When one side does not slide evenly on the hex bolt (guide) it will cause uneven wear on the pads. Do it right the first time!

 

What size are those hex bolts? Will they come out with a standard socket? From what I've heard here the bigger ones that hold the caliper require a breaker bar which I don't have. Thank you

 

I am at the office but I think 8mm???

 

This is never ending! I called this place to order my front rotors and I gave them my car's year,model and vin # but they still need to know what size are my rotors? Does that mean now I have to go take off my front wheel and brakes apart so I can measure the damn thing? This shouldn't be such a hassle!
They need to know whether the rotor is 305 or 325mm.

 

Does anyone know what size of front rotors I need? 305 or 325mm? Hasn't anyone replaced those? Please help I need them by tomorrow. I have a standard XJ8 and just want to replace them with the same diameter standard rotors. Thank you.

 

I believe XJRs without Brembos came with 325mm in the front. So my best guess for you would be to get the 305mm discs. Good luck.

 

Not sure what model you're referring to but on my XJ8 I had to remove the 2 17mm bolts as well as the 2 hex in order to replace the rotor.