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Car starts and seems to run fine but I cannot get it out of park. All of a sudden, display has all kinds of warning lights on.
Emergency brake light is on, "gold engine light on, gold ABS light on, center has additional gold and red lights on. In addition, once started bells chime and "Er" displays on the LCD display for fan or AC controls. This "Er" message is the LCD above the radio LCD.
Battery was low and I charged it to 12.3 volts with trickle charger. I removed Neg terminal of battery and touched it to Red terminal to discharge capacitors and "reset" anything. Still stuck in park. Any ideas?
Don't know what's with all the error lights, and I'm sure there are members here waaaay smarter than me that will come up with the correct solution......but I was wondering as you have to have your foot on the brake pedal to get out of park, is it possible the brake light switch is faulty?
Maybe check, with the ignition on, that the brake lights come on when you press the brake pedal?
If the brake light switch, under the dash, is bad you won't have any brake lights and the actuator, that is under the J gate, will not release the shifter so you can get it out of park. There is a torx screw that is to the top left of the Jgate. Remove the screw and take a screwdriver and move the lever to release the shifter out of park. Remember when you drive if it is the brake switch you won't have brake lights.
.It possible that you have a bad battery that is causing all of your warning lights. The battery should have at least 12.7v or strange things can happen.
My vote is your battery is toast. Fully charged is 13.5 or more volts for a 12 volt battery. At 12.6 the starter is going to drag it down to 11 or less and the modules are going to nuts.
My vote is your battery is toast. Fully charged is 13.5 or more volts for a 12 volt battery. At 12.6 the starter is going to drag it down to 11 or less and the modules are going to nuts.
The battery will show some 13+ volts when tested immediately after it has been taken off the charger but this is only temporary. After about an hour, the battery voltage will settle at 12.6 to 12.7 volts which means 100% charge. Here's the battery state of charge table:
My VIN starts with SAJDA, therefore can I assume this dashboard fix does not apply to my car?
The instructions say the car's VIN must be within a range of A00116-A05322 - F00103-F09691
Ok my last digits are F01041 so my car falls in the range for that possible fix. However, I am going to try to replace my battery first since that is a possible fix and would be easier than taking apart the dashboard. Thanks for help
Just installed new battery. Momentarily I could shift out of park, still with all warning lights on. Shifted back into park and now stuck again with all same warning lights.
Last edited by AltonJag; 08-12-2019 at 03:44 PM.
Reason: Got battery
The instrument pack comes out rather easily (be patient, use a long #2 phillips and if needed use a stick magnet for the screws), I've had mine out a couple times (LED upgrade and then LED upgrade with CAN Bus...lesson learned). The biggest issue I had was reinstalling the 2 pressure seated connectors. They can fight you to get them squarely reseated and be sure to test it before putting the wood dash back on.
I removed the console and sure enough there was sloppy soldering. I cleaned up the solder and checked it by viewing through a magnification loop. Looks all clean, posts are no longer connected via sloppy solder. Checked for continuity I am still getting continuity between 1-2 and 1-3. I thought that there was not supposed to be continuity between those posts. I reinstalled gauge cluster and sure enough same problem with warning lights.
I have now taken CAN out of the car again and hoping for new words of wisdom
Cleaning up the solder joints does NOT ensure that the fault will be rectified!
If the installation of an Instrument Pack is required, note the following:
• Make a copy of the attached Odometer Disclosure Statement.
• USA dealers: Fill out the Odometer Disclosure Statement completely and fax it with the
repair order to the JNA Parts Department (201-818-9816).
• Canada dealers: Contact the Jaguar Canada Parts Department (905) 792-9400 ext. 248. Do
not order the instrument pack directly from the Bramalea warehouse. This will be carried
out on your behalf prior to shipment to the US for metrage programming. MPH instrument
packs will not be supplied for Canadian market vehicles.
I have had to replace MANY INST PKs after the TSB was followed because the procedure did NOT fix the fault!!
I had to replace the INST PK for the repair.
The TSB does not state that the repair procedure will be the final fix. It states that the repair must be attempted FIRST!
Thanks at this point I have spent $120 on a battery and tried the fix, to no avail. I have a car that runs but cannot be moved. I'll see what this part costs, otherwise does anyone want to by a 2000 XJ8 with 47K miles?
Thanks for the help, have a few more questions.
Since you have replaced many INST Pks, do you have a general idea of price? Is it $100 or $1000? Trying to get an idea how deep I am going into a black hole.
Is INST PK circuit board alone or does it include gauge cluster. Will replacement alter car's odometer?
Will replacing INST PK fix the problem, the majority of the time, or is there another costly step to follow?
I reinstalled the gauge cluster, all lights still on and now no longer working are the tachometer, speedometer and odometer. Tough to sell a car with no record of mileage.
If you have a state mandated inspection program there will be a record of the mileage with the gov't.
You can install a used INSTPK and still verify the mileage from a past recent inspection?(or find an INSTPK with similar mileage?)