Stuck trying to install the intake elbow...
#1
Stuck trying to install the intake elbow...
Hey guys, I'm trying to put my 2000 XJR back together and for the past two evening I've been stuck at trying to bolt the intake elbow up to the supercharger. I initially had the elbow bolted in and connected to the purge valve and bolted into its brackets on either side, then when I went to install the supercharger I realized the elbow was covering access to that single bolt at the back of the supercharger. So I unbolt the intake elbow and disconnect the two short hoses that connect the purge valve to the charge air coolers and install the super charger.
But no for the life of me I can't get the intake elbow to line up with the supercharger. It feels like I'm fighting the purge valve hose against the charge air coolers, but I can't loosen the charge air coolers because access to those bolts is now blocked by the supercharger, and I have to have the super charger in place first because the intake elbow blocks access to that one bolt that holds the SC in.
I'm getting really frustrated with it and can't see a way to get it back together, nevermind even getting that gasket between the elbow and the supercharger lined up as well. Any tips???
But no for the life of me I can't get the intake elbow to line up with the supercharger. It feels like I'm fighting the purge valve hose against the charge air coolers, but I can't loosen the charge air coolers because access to those bolts is now blocked by the supercharger, and I have to have the super charger in place first because the intake elbow blocks access to that one bolt that holds the SC in.
I'm getting really frustrated with it and can't see a way to get it back together, nevermind even getting that gasket between the elbow and the supercharger lined up as well. Any tips???
#2
what I've read...
Not from any personal experience as I haven't removed my supercharger yet (planned) but I've read several people recommend cutting the rear supercharger bolt hole into an open slot so you can have that rear bolt in place when the supercharger is presented to the engine. They must have run into the same issue you're describing.
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Sean B (07-26-2019)
#3
Not from any personal experience as I haven't removed my supercharger yet (planned) but I've read several people recommend cutting the rear supercharger bolt hole into an open slot so you can have that rear bolt in place when the supercharger is presented to the engine. They must have run into the same issue you're describing.
#4
I first installed the charge coolers and the supercharger (pic). Then, I attached the bypass valve to the elbow, put the two short hoses onto the bypass valve ports and clamped them at the bottom with the two top clamps on the hoses placed as far down as possible. You can then insert the complete elbow by forcing a bit the two hoses up onto the charge cooler ports, insert the gasket and the bolts to the supercharger, tighten and finally move the top clamps of the two short hoses up into position.
#5
I first installed the charge coolers and the supercharger (pic). Then, I attached the bypass valve to the elbow, put the two short hoses onto the bypass valve ports and clamped them at the bottom with the two top clamps on the hoses placed as far down as possible. You can then insert the complete elbow by forcing a bit the two hoses up onto the charge cooler ports, insert the gasket and the bolts to the supercharger, tighten and finally move the top clamps of the two short hoses up into position.
#6
OUScooby, its a bit of a PITA..installed intake elbow after rear supercharger bolt; I kept the bypass attached, but removed the plates that secure at the end of the elbow. Dont recall if i kept the bypass hoses on or off, but lubed with with dielectric to slip and move easy. intake elbow was bare except for the bypasses.
#7
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#8
OUScooby, its a bit of a PITA..installed intake elbow after rear supercharger bolt; I kept the bypass attached, but removed the plates that secure at the end of the elbow. Dont recall if i kept the bypass hoses on or off, but lubed with with dielectric to slip and move easy. intake elbow was bare except for the bypasses.
The key to an ‘easier’ install (besides slotting that rear S/C bolt hole) is to silicone that rectangular aluminum gasket to the throttle body elbow and let dry 24 hours. Use nuts and bolts to keep it firmly in place while drying. Then you can install it the next day.
I really hope there is a small room in hell for the engineer that designed this, and when he dies he'll end up there and will have to spend the rest of eternity installing and removing this intake elbow.
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Sean B (07-26-2019)
#9
It is possible that the two rubber hoses expanded (relaxed) a bit in length during the long sitting period causing problem with lifting the elbow sufficiently up to align its holes to the supercharger. Also, the hoses, while in place, deform a bit in a slightly curved shape. The hoses should be rotated during installation to position their curvature to better comply with the charge cooler ports. I guess the hoses could also be cut a few mm shorter to make the installation easier.
Otherwise, the valve attached to the elbow is not a "purge valve" but a supercharger Bypass Valve. It enables the supercharger to run in a "power on demand" mode - with light throttle (or during deceleration) the valve is open allowing the "blow" of the supercharger to go back into its intake port (the air is mostly recirculated through the supercharger) so very little (if any) boost is applied to the cylinder head intake ports. Then, with the throttle open more and more, the bypass valve closes more and more forcing part of the boost to the intake ports. On hard acceleration, the bypass valve is fully closed and the engine gets full boost.
Otherwise, the valve attached to the elbow is not a "purge valve" but a supercharger Bypass Valve. It enables the supercharger to run in a "power on demand" mode - with light throttle (or during deceleration) the valve is open allowing the "blow" of the supercharger to go back into its intake port (the air is mostly recirculated through the supercharger) so very little (if any) boost is applied to the cylinder head intake ports. Then, with the throttle open more and more, the bypass valve closes more and more forcing part of the boost to the intake ports. On hard acceleration, the bypass valve is fully closed and the engine gets full boost.
#10
So I thought I'd put and update here, I got the car all put back together yesterday and filled it with fluids today. It hesitated at first but started first try, unfortunately there is a knocking at idle. It seems the bottom end of the motor did not survive the overheating that lead me to rebuild the heads. Here is a video of it at idle:
Thanks to everyone here who offered help and advice. Unfortunately I think this is the end of the road for this Jag.
Update: So I did a compression test on the engine the number are as follows (from front cylinder to back): Driver's Side 120,125,130, 115 Pass Side: 125, 135, 135, 120. So the car has compression thats good, but all for spark plugs had carbon build up on them. These were brand new spark plugs and this was only from a few min of idling. Also I've got CELS for misfires P0300 P0305 P0307 and a pending P1000 as well as a transmission high temp warning that has thrown it into limp mode.
I'm slightly more optimistic given how the compression test turned out, but need to figure out why the spark plugs foul so quickly, which I'm assuming is the cause of the missing.
Also I am continuing this in this thread here: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-167785/page4/
So please respond there
Thanks to everyone here who offered help and advice. Unfortunately I think this is the end of the road for this Jag.
Update: So I did a compression test on the engine the number are as follows (from front cylinder to back): Driver's Side 120,125,130, 115 Pass Side: 125, 135, 135, 120. So the car has compression thats good, but all for spark plugs had carbon build up on them. These were brand new spark plugs and this was only from a few min of idling. Also I've got CELS for misfires P0300 P0305 P0307 and a pending P1000 as well as a transmission high temp warning that has thrown it into limp mode.
I'm slightly more optimistic given how the compression test turned out, but need to figure out why the spark plugs foul so quickly, which I'm assuming is the cause of the missing.
Also I am continuing this in this thread here: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-167785/page4/
So please respond there
Last edited by OUScooby; 08-04-2019 at 06:47 PM.
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ltshaneclarke
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10-23-2018 06:24 PM
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