I've been reading posts about reinstalling the supercharger in preparation for tackling this tomorrow. Many posts refer to slotting the rear bolt. How does this help as you still need to be able to get to it to tighten it? The posts I've been reading are for the STR, does this still help for an XJR. If so, how does it help? What am I missing?

 

I have seen this done on a customers car (X308 XJR) once before and I must admit that this made life a lot easier. The idea of not having to pull the throttle body elbow off just to get to that one bolt *the next time you have to pull the charger off* is a good mod. It saves time and aggravation is the reason why people do this.

 

It seems that, if the rear bolt hole is slotted, the supercharger can be removed if the four bolts of the elbow are removed and the rear SC bolt just loosened, possibly with a ring spanner from one side. I have not slotted the hole on my SC so I am not sure what the benefits are. Here are a couple of pictures of the rear bolt I have taken during assembly of my engine:

 

I'm not seeing how to get a spanner in there to tighten it up but I'm thinking I'll slot it. Maybe it'll become obvious once I get it back in place.

 

I went ahead and slotted the rear hole. I can just about see how with a perfectly shaped and angled ratcheting spanner/wrench I 'd be able to reach it from the right side of the engine below the elbow and after removing the throttle body. Not removing the elbow would save having to deal with the elbow and the EGR valve.

For me the elbow itself went in easily and lined up without any problem. Thanks for the tip of using silicone to attach the gasket to the supercharger that helped. Difficult part of the job was the EGR to exhaust lower bolt and getting the small hose under the coolant cross over pipe back on. I couldn't find any posts from others having problems with that pipe so maybe it's just because the hose was new.

The collar for the vacuum line to the booster C2S15816 came out in pieces. The fitting for the hard plastic line going from the tank to the cross over pipe MNC4582BC seemed to be stuck in the pipe and broke off rather than come out. I had to screw a drywall screw into it and lever it out with pliers. I did find the norma removal tool on one of the lines but only after breaking this one, I'm not sure it would have helped as that piece was really stuck in there. I'd buy some hose clamp removal pliers if I was doing this again, seemed like every clamp was turned to the worst position to get my offset pliers on to it.

I replaced the valley hoses and the "soft" vacuum lines. For some reason the MAP sensor was a smaller diameter that the other hoses and had been tightened with a zip tie that was no longer holding it on.

Thanks to those who replied to my questions and numerous previous posters. This site has been extremely helpful.

 

The norma connector on that same return line started leaking on mine. I couldn't find a replacement return line or at least only one half of it. I just cut out a small piece of the line on each side of the connector and used some high temp goodyear hose with sealant and tiny hose clamps. It's held up flawlessly for years and the hose now has a flexible elbow for future removal.