Supercharger drive belt chirp on cold start, lack of audible warning/ chimes in car
#1
Supercharger drive belt chirp on cold start, lack of audible warning/ chimes in car
I know these threads exist, but after reading them
I still don't have my answers. It's driving me mad
to be unable to sort these out!! So here goes.
The supercharger drive belt was thought to be the
culprit. And I've replaced it. I also scored the idler
pully, in the thought that it was slipping. that was
not the solution either. Please help, this belt
squeal is annoying.
The chime in the speaker under the steering wheel
does not work. Meaning, no audible warnings for
almost anything in the car. So, I have been under
the steering column checking that all the leads
are intact, and that the speaker is intact. they are.
I disconnected the connector immediate to the speaker,
and my test light revealed no electricity in the connector
with the ignition/ turn signal on. So, either I am
not using my test light properly or the signal is not
even getting to the steering column. Is the next step
the body control module? If I get to it, will I know how
to fix it?
I still don't have my answers. It's driving me mad
to be unable to sort these out!! So here goes.
The supercharger drive belt was thought to be the
culprit. And I've replaced it. I also scored the idler
pully, in the thought that it was slipping. that was
not the solution either. Please help, this belt
squeal is annoying.
The chime in the speaker under the steering wheel
does not work. Meaning, no audible warnings for
almost anything in the car. So, I have been under
the steering column checking that all the leads
are intact, and that the speaker is intact. they are.
I disconnected the connector immediate to the speaker,
and my test light revealed no electricity in the connector
with the ignition/ turn signal on. So, either I am
not using my test light properly or the signal is not
even getting to the steering column. Is the next step
the body control module? If I get to it, will I know how
to fix it?
#2
The test light may not show anything. The speaker doesn't get pure 12V, it gets the output from a (small) audio amplifier. Which probably isn't grunty enough to push meaningful power through a light bulb, it's intended to shove a few milliamps through an 8ohm (or summat) impedence.
Sure your speaker's working OK? Connect a 1.5V battery momentarily to the speaker terminals and you should hear a ticking sound each time you connect it.
And on a related note: What loom does the speaker connect to? I tried to fix mine a few weeks ago: the speaker's working fine, but it looks like the connectors have been ripped off (no wires coming off the solder tabs on the speaker), and there's no loose wires or connectors dangling anywhere under the steering column that I can see.
Sure your speaker's working OK? Connect a 1.5V battery momentarily to the speaker terminals and you should hear a ticking sound each time you connect it.
And on a related note: What loom does the speaker connect to? I tried to fix mine a few weeks ago: the speaker's working fine, but it looks like the connectors have been ripped off (no wires coming off the solder tabs on the speaker), and there's no loose wires or connectors dangling anywhere under the steering column that I can see.
#3
#4
Connecting an AA battery is easy enough. Just get a battery and a couple of lengths of wire, tape one wire to each end of the battery, disconnect the speaker from the main harness, then touch one wire to one terminal of the speaker and the other to the other.
Doesn't matter which way round the battery goes, and at that voltage you can't hurt either yourself or the speaker.
Only thing to watch out for is not letting the wires touch each other and short the battery out, though even that is unlikely to do more than spark.
Worth doing, a dead speaker is a much cheaper fix than the control module, and a much more likely failure...
Alternatively, if you have a multimeter handy, the speaker resistance should be about 64 ohm
Doesn't matter which way round the battery goes, and at that voltage you can't hurt either yourself or the speaker.
Only thing to watch out for is not letting the wires touch each other and short the battery out, though even that is unlikely to do more than spark.
Worth doing, a dead speaker is a much cheaper fix than the control module, and a much more likely failure...
Alternatively, if you have a multimeter handy, the speaker resistance should be about 64 ohm
The following users liked this post:
Ipc838 (01-03-2013)
#5
I know these threads exist, but after reading them
I still don't have my answers. It's driving me mad
to be unable to sort these out!! So here goes.
The supercharger drive belt was thought to be the
culprit. And I've replaced it. I also scored the idler
pully, in the thought that it was slipping. that was
not the solution either. Please help, this belt
squeal is annoying.
The chime in the speaker under the steering wheel
does not work. Meaning, no audible warnings for
almost anything in the car. So, I have been under
the steering column checking that all the leads
are intact, and that the speaker is intact. they are.
I disconnected the connector immediate to the speaker,
and my test light revealed no electricity in the connector
with the ignition/ turn signal on. So, either I am
not using my test light properly or the signal is not
even getting to the steering column. Is the next step
the body control module? If I get to it, will I know how
to fix it?
I still don't have my answers. It's driving me mad
to be unable to sort these out!! So here goes.
The supercharger drive belt was thought to be the
culprit. And I've replaced it. I also scored the idler
pully, in the thought that it was slipping. that was
not the solution either. Please help, this belt
squeal is annoying.
The chime in the speaker under the steering wheel
does not work. Meaning, no audible warnings for
almost anything in the car. So, I have been under
the steering column checking that all the leads
are intact, and that the speaker is intact. they are.
I disconnected the connector immediate to the speaker,
and my test light revealed no electricity in the connector
with the ignition/ turn signal on. So, either I am
not using my test light properly or the signal is not
even getting to the steering column. Is the next step
the body control module? If I get to it, will I know how
to fix it?
I took the belts off & removed both tensioners. I was able to prise off the grease seal & packed some new grease in. Upon re-assembly everything was quiet for a few days but now the squeak is back again
Anyway, I know now that it's one of those 2 belt tensioners-before replacing them I'm going to try an experiment by mixing grease with oil to produce a 'lubricant' that is flowable but not so thin it can escape past the grease seal.
I've had squeaking tensioners on other cars & it's always due to the same reason-the grease dries out & the centrifugal force of the spinning pulleys gradually throws it away from the ball races & then the squeaking starts...
My thought is that by 'thinning' the grease with oil so that it's slightly flowable will allow it to 'seep' back into the ***** & races when the engine is stopped-but it's still very thick so won't seep past the grease seal when the engine & pulley is hot...
#7
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#8
I had exactly the same problem (no audible warnings) on my 2002 XJ8. The wires going to the 2" speaker were both good and connected and the speaker looked like new, but it was bad! I replaced it with a 2" 8 ohm speaker from the local electonics store and it worked but was very loud. (8 ohm resistance instead of 64 ohms). I soldered a 54 ohm resistor in series between the wire and the speaker and now it's perfect. I ordered a new 64 ohm speaker from UK on line but haven't installed it because my fix is working great.
Andy
Andy
The following users liked this post:
aholbro1 (12-30-2012)
#9
As plums states, I've covered the chirp. Bearing noise, forget trying to 'lube' them, at 20 quid for the lot it's a simple fix, or buy the updated belt/pulley/bracket kit from Jaguar, that's 200 quid. (pre 2002 R cars only)
The speaker is almost certainly dead, this can either be replaced by locating one from breakers or forum members ahem, the key to the job is knowing where the torx/pozi fasteners are underneath in the steering cowl, the rest is a piece of 'marks and spencers chocolate bomb' cake...
The speaker is almost certainly dead, this can either be replaced by locating one from breakers or forum members ahem, the key to the job is knowing where the torx/pozi fasteners are underneath in the steering cowl, the rest is a piece of 'marks and spencers chocolate bomb' cake...
#10
Sorry all, I never did see Sean's post about the bearings.
Will get to work on it as soon as I am back to the Jaguar,
I am in Miami, FL, at the moment without my car. I know
my way around the underside of the dash quite well,
Sean, I have the correct torx drive and screwdriver for
taking it all apart again. I will probably go for whatever
Ebay has in terms of Jag 2" 64ohm speakers in stock.
@Sean, The best search keyword luck I've had yet is
"belt idler pulley bearing" on search, but I haven't found
your posting yet. I went to find your "started threads" but
there are dozens of pages of threads there
If you have a link that would be much appreciated.
Thanks for the help guys, let's see how my work goes.
Will get to work on it as soon as I am back to the Jaguar,
I am in Miami, FL, at the moment without my car. I know
my way around the underside of the dash quite well,
Sean, I have the correct torx drive and screwdriver for
taking it all apart again. I will probably go for whatever
Ebay has in terms of Jag 2" 64ohm speakers in stock.
@Sean, The best search keyword luck I've had yet is
"belt idler pulley bearing" on search, but I haven't found
your posting yet. I went to find your "started threads" but
there are dozens of pages of threads there
If you have a link that would be much appreciated.
Thanks for the help guys, let's see how my work goes.
Last edited by Ipc838; 01-01-2013 at 12:50 AM. Reason: Can't find the bearing thread/ or fix they are talking about.
#11
here's the post Ian, pretty sure it'll sort it out....
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...71/#post443012
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...71/#post443012
The following 2 users liked this post by Sean B:
Ipc838 (01-01-2013),
Red October (01-01-2013)
#12
Problem is the bearings are old & the grease doesn't flow like oil, so it'll never work it's way into the bearing/races & stay there. As an eternal tinkerer, I've 'thinned out' some grease with engine oil so it's very slightly flowable now.
Will try that in the old bearings as an experiment & if that doesn't work than I know to replace the bearings from your excellent post on the subject!
#13
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