I think the small O ring (x3) goes on the inside of the timing cover surrounding the holes for the idler bracket bolts. Unfortunately my photos are all stashed away in my old phone at the moment... However when removing the sc idler bracket you shouldn't need to worry about them, that I remember for sure. You can also just take the sc pulley off the bracket in situ, no need to pull the whole bracket off unless you really need to or it's stuck or something.

The only reverse threaded bolt in the belt systems is the one in the accessory tensioner pulley.

 

Thanks for chiming in, Nilanium. So let's hope for the best that the penetrating oil will do its work :-)
And that removing the fan assembly for using a regular hex socket instead of just a crowfoot / spanner.
Cheers, Alexander

 

Anytime I do any belt work I pull the fan assy first thing. My missing front lower splash shield makes it a bit easier to disconnect the relocated fan connector. I hate doing it, but my breaker bar doesn't fit into the sc tensioner slot without doing so, so I've got it down to a science for pulling those fans out.

 

Since I still have my lower splash shield, I'm quite happy that I fixed the rusted metal sheet nuts and bolts the last time I had my bumper off. I had to drill out every single bolt and nut and that was a PITA.
I already took advantage of the regained disassembly function multiple times. Last time just this afternoon, as I swapped the water pump, because I misinterpreted the bearing noise coming from there.
Just imagine my disillusion, when I found out about the water pump not being the source of the noise.

 

So, based on Sean B's recommendation I ordered the *** (3) and SKF (1) part numbers to replace all four bearings. The best price I found was from a place in England. I ordered them Sunday evening and they came this morning! That means they shipped from England on Monday and arrived in North Carolina on Wednesday. Color me impressed.

Three are made in Korea and the fourth is made in Italy. I am looking forward to installing them tomorrow along with new belts. I just need to learn how to remove the fan assembly for access.

 

The fan assy is 2x13mm bolts if I recall, on top of the unit - slides straight up, then maybe 3 cable ties holding the loom to the fan assy plus the connector. Just a case of removing the bolts and sliding the assembly straight up, nipping the ties and unclipping. Don't forget to replace the ties or the fans may eat the harness!
Knock or press the old ones out and replace. I don't 'tidy' the inside of the pulleys prior to fitting, just knock them home.

 

Thanks Sean,

On my last XJR I changed both belts without removing anything, even though the directions I found said I had to remove the fans AND radiator! I am hoping just removing the fan assembly will give me enough access to replace the belts and pulleys without having to remove the radiator.

 

Took about 90 minutes start to finish. I even remembered to zip tie the cords when I was done. Bearings pressed out and in perfectly and everything is smooth and silent.

Thanks all...

The two supercharger pulley bearings seemed to be in pretty good shape, both silent. One would spin way too easy but was still smooth and quiet. The two bearings on the accessory belt pulleys however were noisy and did not turn smoothly. Those two were definitely due for replacement. I went ahead and replaced all four of course.

 

Sounds great! Did you use a workshop press for the bearings or just a hammer?

I'm quite curious if it's easier with the press or if it doesn't make any difference.
When ok with the hammer, I can do it in the runway. If you say it's easier with the press, I'll hire a rental workshop.
Cheers, Alexander

 

I have a 12 ton press I picked up about 3 years ago at Harbor Freight (discount tool outlet) for about $110 U.S. It has paid for itself a few times over.

I have always been hesitant to "hammer" stuff in because I'm afraid the shock will damage something; shorten the bearing life maybe? It may be silly, but it makes me nervous. I prefer to press it in slowly. On a simple job like this, it was SUPER easy to press out and in the bearings with my little hydraulic press. Super easy...and no shock.

 

Thanks very much! I'll tackle that next week :-)

 

Sean B.

Sorry to be a dolt, but I also get SQUEEL. Just replaced OEM S/C belt, still SQUEEL. Do I understand you Replace S/C tensioner *** 6203.2RSR (smooth) AND its bearings SKF 6303.2RSH/C3 ???

Thanks! EHT--JCNA

 

Sean B. Not clear I get the "trick" in RESPOND, so let me try again: Replace four (4) sets of bearings, one in EACH 3 grooved pulleys and ONE S/C idler-tensioner??

Grooved pulleys (bearings) in S/C belt path are *** 6203.2RSR (three) and smooth S/C idler-tensioner is SKF 6303-2RSH/C3 ??? Thanks, Ed--JCNA, S. Carolina Colony

 

Yes! 1xSKF 6303-2RSH/C3 and 3xFAG 6203.2RSR should be your order.

 

+1 on what Sean.B said.

Did the whole a few months ago inspired by this thread and since my S/C idler bearing was bad. Was an easy plug'n'play job. To remove the S/C idler, I found it handy to remove the fan assembly - costs you a couple of minutes more, but makes a lot of room to remove the belts and to apply the tools (ratchet etc). And you won't end up with bloody hands

 

Supplier had a question on *** 6203.2RSR bearings for S/C idler-tensioner bearings. Is there any "additional" number following ...2RSR ?? I did note that there should be two (2) "races" in box, which I believe is correct. Anything "following" the .2RSR that "might" denote number of "races" in the box???

Thanks

 

Hi trottier.ed,

I think you got sth wrong with the bearings.
We're talking about two separate belts - with a tensioner pulley and an idler pulley each.

For the engine accessory drive belt's idler and tensioner pulley, you will need *** 6203.2RSR/each = two bearings.

For the supercharger belt pulley, you will need 1 x *** 6203.2RSR for the belt tensioner and 1 x SKF 6303-2RSH/C3 for the idler pulley.

If you want to replace the S/C idler pulley's bearing only, then go with one SKF.
If you want to replace the S/C tensioner pulley's bearing too, you'll have to order one *** bearing on top.
And if you want to replace the bearings of the accessory (engine) drive belt's idler and tensioner pulley too, then you have to add two more *** bearings to the list.

Hope this helps to shed light on the issue?

See pictures for clarification.

 

OK, now I see the matter more clearly. Pictures worth 2,000 words!! Focus was on S/C belt, with Idler (smooth surface) smeared with black material from outside (smooth) surface of S/C belt. S/C belt replaced and S/C idler cleaned. Screech unchanged at 3000 rpm. Next job: Replace bearings in idlers/tensioners in BOTH engine acces. and S/C paths. Are there supposed to be two (2) sets of bearings in the SKF 63032RSH/C3 box for S/C idler? Thanks again !!

 

Why two sets?!? I don't think that anyone can tell clearly on how the retailer packs the bearings. You just need one SKF bearing. And if you're not lucky to purchase one single bearing, then you've the other as spare. And if your question aims at if the bearing is two-part then the answer is "no". Both types of bearings are single-pieces.

 

Seeing as you work better with pictures, just for you I broke out a fresh one...I think your answer is 12PK.