Pedantic?

For advocating that a reasonable effort is better than no effort?

A complete inspection, rebuild and clearancing is *always* going to be the better route. Especially as the rear bearings cannot be externally lubed. But, not everyone can do it. Nor can everyone remove their supercharger for what ought to be routine lubrication checking.

It is entirely reasonable to do what is within reach rather than doing nothing.

 

My response was based on your original response to the OP worded in the form of a challenge. He did it and that should have been the end of it.

If it is impossible on your particular vehicle, then that is unfortunate. But, it does not make it impossible for everyone else. That would be logically inconsistent.

 

So I guess that means your not going to show me how to do it. Guess you're a man of words not action.

 

See? There you go again with the gauntlet.

It's already been proven in the opening post it can be done. It's also been detailed at other sites for multiple makes on multiple Eaton models including the M112. Some of them include complete photo series of the operation.

Maybe yours is "special".

 

Because you saw a picture it must be possible. You are freaking brilliant! People smarter than you of I have been unable to do change it using the posted method on my car again as I stated 2 or 3 times now in this post alone for reasons beyond me. Again, COME PROVE ME WRONG. Typing just doesn't cut it with me or the ladies. I'm just around the corner from the the where you posted you live.

 

I'm having waaay too much fun reading this thread..

 

Yea, sorry to say I am too.

 

No. The pictures were just the icing on the cake. As for someone being smarter or dumber than me, there is no proof one way or the other. And, as to whereabouts you must have me confused with someone else unless you count your corners in hundreds of miles.

From:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...54&postcount=4

In your own words in July of last year you "Got maybe 4 oz out".

So, if you also account for:

1. the by now famous slope effect

2. the lubricant not reachable because it is clinging to various parts

3. the possible prior loss of lubricant

4. the "maybe" part of your 4 ounces

Most descriptions of supercharger lubricant refills quote 4 to 8 fluid ounces. As a point of reference, a bone dry factory fill specification for a M90 is 6.9 fluid ounces. The M112 is the next size up.

And from the description of the rebuild kit that Sean B posted: "8oz is enough oil to fill any Generation 1-5 Eaton-style supercharger (both 3 and 4 lobe Eaton, Magnuson, TRD, Jackson Racing, Stillen), most with a little to spare for future top-offs."

If you combine 1, 2, 3 and 4 from above, add in your 4 ounces and compare it with the capacity reports from other observers, that might be all you are going to get. Maybe when you ran your car around to your mechanic friends, they couldn't get any more out of the well because the well, your supercharger, was already bone dry.

Most people attempting the job would conclude that they got a good portion of the lubricant out and happily continue with the job. On the other hand you insist that the job is impossible. But, you got 4 ounces out.

 

On further reflection, and despite the leveling workaround, the leveling may not be that important as long as it is close.

The reason for this is that the reservoir is actually the front drive area only. And it is more of a vertical slab than horizontal.

So, a comparison would be between a narrow glass of water and a cookie sheet filled with water. A tilt on a glass of water is not so important as a tilt of a cookie sheet.

 

[QUOTE=plumsauce;313874]Fine. But, it is better to do the best one can rather than not at all because one fears not being able to achieve perfection.



I must disagree: Occasionally --- doing nothing .....is far superior to doing something 95%.

Having an understanding of the proper procedure to change the oil in the SC would be of interest. As reported - Jaguar recommends removing the SC for checking and refiling. Some reason must exist for this - as it is not an easy removal. I would be interested in the reason. I can only conclude that an accurate fill can not be obtained.

I see no reason to change the fluid -- I still have the original belt. I understand the OP called the manufacturer -- but I am alway suspect of the "change it at 100k" when you call technical. This is not to say I am unbelieving - just would like a little more information on this. I do thank the OP for his post.

This is no different than the transmission fluid change. People have this idea that the fluid must be changed at what ever interval they feel comfortable with but are then unwilling to understand that it may need a special fluid and special procedures to properly do the change. So they do it incorrectly - with damage not evident for 20K or 30k - and then they blame the box. I can add the coolant/ distilled water to this discussion also.

 

Confused? yes I am by someone who is so ignorant that they are not willing to post their true address so I can only assume that your just around the corner, or hiding from the ladies who wanted action not your words.

Maybe 4oz translates into 2oz once it is measured and weighed which is what is posted in this thread. Most people attempting the job for a 6+oz expectation would say that 2oz is not sufficient and will not take out any of the "heavy particles" from the bottom. I said maybe 4 not 4. There is a lot of difference in the English language between "maybe" and an actual weight.

Reality is it was not bone dry in fact when I opened it on the flat I had oil come out initially, Filled it back up to flowing out and put 2ozs in (actually slightly less). Even with the 3 changes it has had, I at best would have changed less than 3/4 of the oil and nothing which was in the bottom.

Still waiting for your action not words. I'll even get you a bottle of viagra since those who insist on talking without anything to offer tend to be compensation for something. Talk isn't proving me wrong by someone who is too scared to even post the location of where they are is it?

I'm done with this thread and done with you since reading back at your previous posts has proven that you do not belong on a site as friendly and helpful as this. Hopefully your arrogance and ignorance will fall on the deaf ears of others until you get bored and fall "off the edge".

 

Oh man, I can't thank you enough. Please accept my sincerest gratitude and most profound appreciation. I noticed my Supercharger making a metal-on-metal sound lately and my heart sunk. Having the entire vehicle's maintenance history, I know the Supercharger oil was never replaced. I will pick up the oil from my neighborhood GM dealer and service my kitty tomorrow afternoon. Thanks again for sharing this exceptionally helpful knowledge with the rest of us.

 

Thanks for this. I got 6.8oz out. Certainly need a small diameter tube. I used teh WD40 tube with heat shrink tubing on it into some model aircraft silicone fuel tube onto a syringe.

I found the tube needed to be directed in the hole, yes it encounters some resistance, and then it goes down at an angle ' towards the center' of the engine and got pretty much all from that spot. Several sucks and fills of the syringe. Filling is much easier!

 

This was great advice from Marcus.

1. I got the Synthetic GM supercharger oil from Ebay for under $10 - just search XJR "supercharger oil". (Used two small bottles, bought 3, one around in reserve)

2. Turkey baster from Rite-Aid on sale for $1

3. Clear tubing from HomeDepot Landscaping / irrigation section was $3
The clear tube made it easy to see when to "pull out"

4. The hex screw cap is in the front benid some of the coolant hoses. it was a fiddle to get the oil inspection cover off - think of it as ten minutes of foreplay.

5. Now you have the hole open, push that evil pipe deep in her little hole. Suck away with your other hand - until you get some of that nasty, black dirty love juice. Oh and and put a hole in the turkey baster bulb for a "carb".

6. It took about six fills at the hole to get the job done - till it was sucking air in dry heeves.

SUMMARY: Look I don't know it this was a waste of time. I have 80K on this car (soft babied freeway miles) But the oil I took out was black and the oil I put in was clear. It took less than an hour and was sort of fun - put some Barry White or Michael Franks on and dim the lights - it could be the most slippery fun you have for under $20 (with your car anyway). The supercharger sounds quieter. If I get an extra 10,000 miles, it was well worth the trouble.

Have fun kids, and remember to play safe.

 

Not if Barry White and the slippery action gets you too excited

 

Everyone, this thread was very, very cool and very informative. A quick question - has anyone taken any pictures of this procedure? I would love to know where this 3/16" fitting would be to take it off.

Thanks

 

Have a look here: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...s-57136/page2/

 

HELP!!!


Any advice on getting the tube past the 'wall' at the front of the supercharger? I have only been able to get the tube in once. I even bought a new bottle sprayer and the tube just bent and won't go in. I will try and find a turkey baster to try. I know I did not get all of the old oil out yet. The original tube I tried is with a 100cc syringe.

 

Getting the tube to go in and bend, and bottom out without catching was the worst part if I remember. I bought some cheapo syringes off amazon with my oil and the tube was slightly too big to fit in there. Took a smaller hose to fit into the larger one, and the smaller hose was shoved in the fill port and downwards with the larger hose fitting over it on the outside.

If I'd known ahead of time I'd have borrowed a syringe from work, we use them for bleeding bicycle disc brake systems. Something like this might do the job, cut the fitting off that hose and it might be long enough, but still flexible and fit.
I think I only pulled about 4-5 oz measured with my syringes, but the fill put in about 6-7 oz. Good enough, since it will eventually be replaced by a newer blower I was able to overhaul and fill on a bench.

 

Does anyone know the part number to the plug? I dropped mine and can't see it now. The Jaguar dealer parts department does not know the part number and could not find it. I have new wheels and tires coming this week and I'm not going to try and drive it without the plug.