suspension torques...
#1
suspension torques...
I just got my lower front suspension arms back with new ball joints pressed in place. I'll be installing everything this afternoon after work. I got the message about using loc-tite on all the bolts and was hoping someone could give me some firmer direction than "damn tight!" for the hardware.
Can someone bounce back with the torque I should be using for...
-rack bolts
-lower wishbone pivot
-spring pan bolts
-Torx bolt that holds rear portion to front portion of lower wishbone
-caliper bracket bolts
I know I can't fit a torque wrench in the ball joint area so those will be done up in the "damn tight" tradition.
Thanks.
Can someone bounce back with the torque I should be using for...
-rack bolts
-lower wishbone pivot
-spring pan bolts
-Torx bolt that holds rear portion to front portion of lower wishbone
-caliper bracket bolts
I know I can't fit a torque wrench in the ball joint area so those will be done up in the "damn tight" tradition.
Thanks.
#2
Join Date: Feb 2013
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I never found any torque specifics when I did my whole front end a few years ago. I just looked again and still didn't see any specs. You can roughly guestimate that after it snugs up, say a 15mm head bolt, I would roughly say 20-25 lbs when dealing with the suspension. But torque is only good if you had two solid surfaces being mated. If you have rubber bushings, then you won't get a correct reading. The suspension bolts are case hardened, as opposed to some engine bolts.
As for those ball joints and such, you are dealing with a tapered piece and drawing it in to secure it. So the term "damn tight" kinda applies. For me I use a box wrench and sometimes my foot on the frame to give it a good snugging after it draws up tight, but not trying to see if I can break it type of snugging. If you have a nylon nut (like the torsion bar links sometimes come with), then you have no need for Loctite.
As for those ball joints and such, you are dealing with a tapered piece and drawing it in to secure it. So the term "damn tight" kinda applies. For me I use a box wrench and sometimes my foot on the frame to give it a good snugging after it draws up tight, but not trying to see if I can break it type of snugging. If you have a nylon nut (like the torsion bar links sometimes come with), then you have no need for Loctite.
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#5
thanks...
avern,
Thanks for taking the time to send that along. I was surprised by the low torque on the rack bolts but did use red loc-tite on all these fasteners so I guess they'll be ok.
If you happen to think of it the only torque value I didn't see in your list was the caliper carrier bolts.
I didn't get that far today, only to torquing up the ball joints. Tomorrow dust shields, carriers, rotors, new pads & calipers and I should be ready for a danger ride to see if I put everything back together correctly.
Thanks for taking the time to send that along. I was surprised by the low torque on the rack bolts but did use red loc-tite on all these fasteners so I guess they'll be ok.
If you happen to think of it the only torque value I didn't see in your list was the caliper carrier bolts.
I didn't get that far today, only to torquing up the ball joints. Tomorrow dust shields, carriers, rotors, new pads & calipers and I should be ready for a danger ride to see if I put everything back together correctly.
#6