Switch seats to test airbag
#1
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Airbag light on. Scan tool live data reads "left deployment control resitance - 1 ohm." All other SRS related resistance values are 3 ohms so I'm assuming the correct left deployment control resitance should be 3 ohms. Since it's lower than should be I don't think bad connection. Seat belt buckle is not the issue.
Thinking of taking out the seats and switching them to see if fault switches to the other side. That would eliminate the airbag being the issue and point to the sensor in the B-pillar. Comments?
Thinking of taking out the seats and switching them to see if fault switches to the other side. That would eliminate the airbag being the issue and point to the sensor in the B-pillar. Comments?
#2
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Try disconnecting the harness plugs one at a time to see if the fault is in the airbag or the harness? (there are a few between the module and the airbag)
Be aware that there are SHORTING BARS in the SRS connectors that prevent stray electrons from energizing the ignitors.(you will get a DEAD SHORT when the connector is unplugged)
Jaguar issued us (dealer mechanics) SRS SIMULATORS to plug into the harness to 'fool' the system with the correct resistance of the various airbags.
Some are 1.2 OHMS and others were about 2 OHMS. The correct resistance will depend on the exact airbag and location.
I made several from old harness connectors and resistors soldered in place.
DO NOT use a multimeter to measure resistance. I always go through the SRS module to read the resistance. A multimeter COULD have enough power to energize an ignitor. (never seen it happen but Jaguar warned against it!!!)
Be aware that there are SHORTING BARS in the SRS connectors that prevent stray electrons from energizing the ignitors.(you will get a DEAD SHORT when the connector is unplugged)
Jaguar issued us (dealer mechanics) SRS SIMULATORS to plug into the harness to 'fool' the system with the correct resistance of the various airbags.
Some are 1.2 OHMS and others were about 2 OHMS. The correct resistance will depend on the exact airbag and location.
I made several from old harness connectors and resistors soldered in place.
DO NOT use a multimeter to measure resistance. I always go through the SRS module to read the resistance. A multimeter COULD have enough power to energize an ignitor. (never seen it happen but Jaguar warned against it!!!)
#3
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#4
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The best way to test the harness connectors and the harness complete is to use 'simulators'.
Each connector is disconnected and the system resistance is read with the 'simulator' in the connector.
Move the next one and so-on until you get a different reading.
The final step (or maybe the FIRST step) would be the airbag itself.
The problem is that the connectors have SHORTING BARS installed to prevent stray electricity from possibly setting off the ignitor.
When the connector is unplugged, it SHORTS across the pins so you will get a false reading unless you stick something in the connector to move the bars off the pins. (like a 'simulator')
An OPEN CIRCUIT would be read if the connector is unplugged AND the shorting bars are moved off the pins inside the connector.(like a plastic wedge?)
Leave the shorting bars in place and you should get a SHORT CIRCUIT (ZERO OHMS) reading in that section of the harness.
A 'pinched' harness would show a 'short' if the connector is unplugged and the shorting bars moved off the pins. (it SHOULD be OPEN CIRCUIT)
Each connector is disconnected and the system resistance is read with the 'simulator' in the connector.
Move the next one and so-on until you get a different reading.
The final step (or maybe the FIRST step) would be the airbag itself.
The problem is that the connectors have SHORTING BARS installed to prevent stray electricity from possibly setting off the ignitor.
When the connector is unplugged, it SHORTS across the pins so you will get a false reading unless you stick something in the connector to move the bars off the pins. (like a 'simulator')
An OPEN CIRCUIT would be read if the connector is unplugged AND the shorting bars are moved off the pins inside the connector.(like a plastic wedge?)
Leave the shorting bars in place and you should get a SHORT CIRCUIT (ZERO OHMS) reading in that section of the harness.
A 'pinched' harness would show a 'short' if the connector is unplugged and the shorting bars moved off the pins. (it SHOULD be OPEN CIRCUIT)
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