Hey guys! Sorry if this has already been posted, I was looking around but couldn't find anything just for what I wanted to replace. I'm pretty sure my tensioner's are going out, i've got a 1998 XJ8 with 79k on it. Firstly my car has had less than 10k miles in the past 4yrs so it sat quite a lot i'm sure.

Anyways, I had to cold start it a few times, after sitting overnight. When/if I did, I wouldn't hear anything like rattling, but when I actually reversed out of my driveway, put the car in drive, and normally take off, I can hear what sounds like a chain clinking around in the front for about 2-3 seconds then it goes away.

I'm sure my car has the original 1st gen tensioners, and I just picked up all 3rd-Gen metal tensioners (not chains) (LH/RH/2 lowers) all dated past 5/20/07. I'm just curious of ALL the seals/gaskets I will need to replace them. Thanks in advance guys...

It was $83.44/each for the RH and LH and $60.42/each for the two lowers.

 

Cam cover gaskets. Timing cover gaskets. Vvt seals and the fiber washers. Crank seal, little o ring that goes in the pulley.
Spark plug boss seals. I think that is it. You do not need to break open the cooling system, but you do take out the cooling fan pack.
Good luck if you are doing it yourself. I can give you the jaguar procedure if you would like.

 

Thanks man, you are elite. Great info, I will have to pick those up asap as well. It would be appreciated to get the procedure if you don't mind sending, that'd be perfect!

Also, doyou guys havesuggestions on any websites for parts?I've been using http://www.motorcarsltd.com/they seem to have pretty nice prices? What do you guysthink you could quick windup for these needed parts?

 

also get chain guides shud be 4.. and if your secondary chains are damaged then they wud need replacing.

 

Do yourself a favor and do the entire job. We sell a kit that contains all the components and seals but the v/c gaskets. We sell those separately, because it depends on the year of your car. We also have a tool kit to install the things. Our kit has only one cam setting tool and I suggest you buy an extra so you don't have to jump back and forth while praying you don't move anything.

 

hah yeah I plan on it, but i've already purchased just the tensioner's alone from your site, so I can't jump on the kit. I've got time to get everything together, thanks for the help guys.

 

Give me a buzz on the phone. If you want the kit, we will find a way to work it out for you. I won't be around this afternoon, if it's something you plan to do soon. I'm going camping with the Boy Scouts this weekend. Leaving soon.

 

** Update ** Will post pics when guides come in.

Job is almost complete, got to see my broke down engine today. I got soooooo lucky I swear, myleft Primary was very busted up, gone orange as usual, big crack and plastic end fallen off, chain was rubbing metal! All completely sludged up, I am thankful of this site or I would have never known. Check out that crack!

EDIT* Couple variouspics of the left side, primary/secondary tensioners, a guide (might be a blade can't remember, and is that a crack/notch or supposed to be there by the mounting hole?)and a shot from under the car on the rack, auto focus having a hard time it was dark under there.

 

higher-rez shot of the cracked spot



[IMG]local://upfiles/3065/B277200963C746E09031E0B4BA31A0B6.jpg[/IMG]

 

Just curious - how long did this job take you? As much as I don't want to, it appears that I may have to do my own tensioners. I'm not even sure I can afford the repair kit, let alone the labor that goes into this job.

 

I have the tools to do that job let me know if you want them

 

Steve - will get an e-mail to you next week when I see how my budget is.

 

Yo it's cool. My mechanic here outside STL, MO did did both sets in 6.2hrs total. Turns out, as busted up as my primary tensioners were..I just needed new tensioner's, guides and blades. and all is perfectly silent. It obviously got hot a couple times and cooked as you can see from the sludge on everything, probably from when I had my water pump go out when I first got it. (getting that cleaned out).
Not pictured, but the right primary was also shot and badly cracked as well.
My opinion, best site for parts is http://www.motorcarsltd.com/ Gotta get those pesky jag tools for this job as well. Give them a call, instant responses.
Anyways, I was curious if the techs here can confirm this, but when these engines get hot can they crack valve covers cause they're molded plastic? I'm assuming overtightening can crack them as well, either way my left valve cover had a couple hairline cracks around two of the mounting holes. At high RPMs it would spit out a little oil and have a faint smell for a bit outside the front left side of car. I really didn't think that much of it at the time, it was so faint and was only there after high rpm bursts.
After this job and reassembly the cracks must have gotten worse, and actually split enough to push oil through andl burn/smoke.
Ordered a new Left (driver's side) valve cover from the dealer, lists $233 here in STL, they have to get it shipped in, wait is 4 days. Been 5 days they still have no called. Will report when installed and tested (juiced hard!)
Labor alone for me was $700 flat for both sets of tensioners, no clue on Jag dealerships. Goodluck bro
*I have tools also i will be selling, so let me know as well.

 

I made new ID sry was trying to post for 4days hah..figured it was internal network probs. I wasn't aware of the probs with posting

 

Nice shot of cooked/cracked tensioner's..

 

Did you change the front crank seal?

 

Sure did.. who would have thought pieces of molded plastic would cost so much hah.

Anyways I got my updated valve cover, not suprising it came withnew revisioned oil cap as well on it, so score this one (valve cover) looks a lot better made than the original. Let's hope this does it.

btw I test drove an XF, couple 07 xj8s, and an aston martin DB9... that thing kicks serious ***!the Jags are a LOT smaller in person hah.

EDIT: I still cannot post with my old ID, something still up admins?

 

I came in one day and my entire account had been deleted. I had to start from scratch,

 

you shud remove the oil pan.. and clean out the pick up screen... where do you think all the plastic pieces go.. lol

 

Eh,after replacing the shotty 1st gen valve cover my leaks and smells have stopped. no oil, leaks, nothing. My sheet runs perfect, silent like it should. Last thing I am doing today is replacing the cheapoplastic thermo cap. $8 from dealership,wow. Thanks for the info.. it appears torquing to 9nm (80in LB) is vital for that cap?