Hi
This DIY on the JTIS should help you get the install from the CD done without any problems. Go to Post #1 to open the DIY PDF file (increase the zoom to 150% in Adobe reader):
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/j...how-use-52643/

Jim Lombardi

 

Here are some notes on torque values, with the usual disclaimer that they are offered without warranty of any kind whatsoever:

The in/lb figures are the actual figures used on a recent job because the wrenches were in in/lb.

The NM figures are drawn from JTIS.

The cam cap bolt torque "feels" awfully light to someone used to wrenching older iron though.

At 110 in/lb, with lubed threads, all the sparkplugs turned exaclty 5/8 of a turn from finger tight.

 

Remember that the "driven" run of chain, and hence the tight side of the secondary chains is different on the two sides due to engine rotation and component placement.

As viewed from the front of the engine, the left bank driving run is the top run, and the right bank has the driving run on the bottom run of chain.

Note that for the secondary tensioners themselves the "RB" tensioner goes on the right side as viewed from the driver's seat, and the "LB" tensioner goes on the left side viewed from the driver's seat.

 

Thanks for your responses plumsauce and Jim. I have made a couple of my tools to help me change the secondary chain. I have made a part to use as the camshaft valve (locking) tool which would be part number 303-530 and would have cost me around $125. Also made the timing chain tensioning tool part number 303-532 a value of $75. Still not sure if I need to use the crankshaft setting tool to properly change the secondary chain or not.

I'm not too worried about taking the old chain off and putting the new chain on. I'm worried about making sure the timing is correct and the new chain has the proper tension.

I do have the tensioners them selves in the proper side(s). I triple checked that first by using the part number and its description. Also looked at the RB and LB that was printed on each one, as well as looking at the old ones the right one (as viewed from the drivers seat) has the compression spring on the bottom side and the left one has the compression spring at the top.

 

just want to say thanks to everyone for all the input. I'll be tackling this soon myself and in this case there's no such thing as too much information.

 

Car is all back together and running smoothly. I will recap what I had to go through to get it running again for those that will face the problem in the future in another post in more detail and pictures but will give a quick overview here.

After replacing the tensioners using the zip tie method. I found that one of the secondary chains was stretched and needed to be replaced. To do that I did the following.

1. Jacked car up on 4 stands.
2. Made my own tool to lock the flywheel in place
3. Made my own tool to lock the exhaust cam and intake cam in place.
4. Took the exhaust sprocket off using my own tool to hold the exhaust sprocket
5. Cut the old chain with a hand held grinder.
6. Installed the new chain with a master link.
7. Tightened everything back up.

 

I am doing a follow up of what it took for me to replace one secondary chain with a master link replacement chain and without having removed the timing chain cover from the front of the motor. This is for those that are going to have to face this task in the future. The real pros here probably can do this in 4 hours or less. I am a novice never having done anything like this before and probably spent a good 8 hours or more next to the car while it was apart. The car actually was in pieces for a month in my garage because of my time constraints, but in the end I have the satisfaction that I got the task done and know my car better and it’s running great. I’m assuming here that you already have your cam covers off and discovered that you have a need to replace one or both of the secondary timing chains. I will do this in several posts because of the number of pictures I have to share. Credit for how I made my tools goes to this posting https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/j...s-tools-51211/ . Photo attached here is showing how loose my chain was.

 

Jacking car up on Jack stands – You will need a nice floor jack and at least two jack stands. Besides the jacking points that are located behind the front tire and in front of the rear tires I believe you can use the lower spring buckets (please correct me if I am wrong). I used only the intended jacking points by placing my floor jack as far back as I could allowing enough room to place the jack stand towards the outside of the car under the jacking point (see picture).
At first I jacked the front up only but I felt very claustrophobic underneath so I purchased another set and after setting them all up to there fullest height I felt much better underneath the car. I moved the car up in stages and one interesting thing I learned was that after getting the front end up on stands and jacking the car up in the rear, the whole rear end goes up not just the one side you are jacking up. So I could jack just one side up and put stands under both sides at the same time. Only one stand had pressure on it the whole time I had it jacked up.

The stands I am using are rated 3 tons each which is plenty, but It looks like I may be dealing with the transmission at some future date to replace the A drum and I may have to go to at least 6 ton jack stands to get the height I would need to remove the transmission.

I also put some tires (on rims) that I have as spares underneath the car just in case something bad would have happened as far as the car falling off the jack stands but everything went well.

 

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  • First before heading on down below you will need to set your cam shafts with the flats facing up. In other words, you should be able to put a straight edge on top of the exhaust and intake cam flats simultaneously and it will lay down perfectly flat. I used a 2 foot breaker bar with a 24mm socket to turn the crank shaft until it lined up just right.
  • Now its time to get dirty. What you are looking for is the crankshaft position sensor located on the flywheel housing. The flywheel is just before the transmission and the area you are looking for is looking towards the transmission at a bell housing. Its right after the stabilizer bar that runs between each of the front wheels and this stabilizer bar is pretty much in your way. I was only able to work with two fingers. Remove the rubber grommet with a pair of pliers or your fingers. This allows you to see the flywheel and that I was lined up correctly with the odd shaped hole in the flywheel and the sensor that was still in place. Then I removed the sensor. All the drawings that I have seen show a bolt holding the sensor on. I had a screw that turned out to be a T-27 head. In the end I used vise grips to remove the screw. I spent a lot of time trying to figure out other ways to remove it. There is no room to put a socket wrench up there. Once the sensor is free just move it aside with the wire still attached.
  • Now the fun part. You need to insert a special tool in the hole the sensor just came out of. If your rich you probably already have or can order the tool you need which is part number 303-531 and can be ordered from here 303-531 - Crankshaft Timing Tool for $45. But if you are like me (not rich) I then made the part. I had read that I could make the part from a 19mm bolt (1-3/8 shank length), which I already had on hand ($1.65). I used my handy grinder to knock off most of the threads allowing me to push the bolt through the flywheel housing. Next I needed to shape the end of the bolt which basically is 3 flat sides and one still rounded side. I notched out the head to make room to use the same screw that held the sensor on and it worked great. Pictures are attached.

 

This was pretty straight forward for me. My flats lined up perfectly with each other and the surface of the head. I had already taken care of this problem when I had the cam loose for the zip tie method of changing out the secondary tensioners. My exhaust cam was off by one tooth. So when I had the exhaust cam loose I twisted the whole cam and sprocket by one tooth to get it lined up.on the chain. This is when I found out that my chain was stretched and needed to be replaced. The lock down tool is part number 303-530 $25 at this site Camshaft Lock Tool - Jaguar Parts and Land Rover Parts . I bought a piece of 1/8 thick x 3 foot angle iron for $9.00 and cut off 8” to use for my tool. I found a site that had the dimensions I needed to make the cuts and drill the holes, but really just take a piece of stiff cardboard like from a cereal box and make a template you will be more accurate. I tried following the drawing and ended up having to slot one of the screw holes to make it fit. Picture attached.

 

Here again you will need a special tool. The tool is part number 303-532 for $75 at this site Timing Chain Tensioning Tool - Jaguar Parts and Land Rover Parts. For the not so rich folks or if your pretty handy you could use a piece of your angle iron you bought for the previous tool or like me, I found a piece of steel laying around, in my case tit used to be a tool for installing pergo laminate flooring. I used a piece of card board like from a cereal box for a template to get the proper radius and hole locations. The hole size is for a 8mm bolt to fit through the tool and holes in the sprocket, Once you have your tool made/bought you are ready. The special tool is used here mainly to keep steady pressure on the sprocket/cam while you loosen the nut holding the sprocket on. The bolt head is a 10mm allen. I purchased a 10mm socket and attached it to the largest ratchet I had. I had to use a U joint in between because there is no room for all this equipment between the bolt and the timing cover, which proves to be a hindrance later during reinstallation. I actually had an assistant put steady pressure clockwise on the cam locking tool while I pulled counter clockwise on the ratchet. Please note while working in the timing chain area I had a washcloth stuffed in the area to prevent any thing from accidentally falling down. The torque for this is 110 to 130 newton metric so its going to be a bit tough. Pictures attached.

 

I covered everything first with towels and washcloths to protect the area from unwanted items falling where they don’t belong. I first tried using bolt cutters but was having a difficult time so changed to my handy grinder. Using the special tool used to remove the sprocket as a way to prevent me from cutting more than what I intended I cut away. Pictures attached

 

I ordered this timing chain JAGUAR 4.0LV-8 UPPER TIMING CHAIN ,WITH MASTER LINK Which is part number EAZ1286 for $59.59 plus shipping $14.47. To get the new chain on I had to remove the new tensioner that I had installed previously in order to grab the new chain as I dropped it around the intake sprocket. I just put the master link on without the exhaust sprocket in the way. Mind which direction the master link spring clip is facing. You want the open end to be facing the opposite direction of travel. I next reinstalled the tensioner, then positioned the sprocket on the chain and onto the end of the cam. Picture attached.

 

This did not go well for me and I need to confess to the mechanical gods for my sin. I tried my best to tighten the exhaust sprocket to the correct torque of between 110 and 130 Newton Metric but failed. None of my torque ratches fit in the space I had to work with. I first tried doing the same as when I loosened it by attaching a universal joint in between the socket and the ratch. This worked fine until the paint on the universal adaptor started peeling off. I knew if I continued it would break. I then purchased a torque wrench with a narrower head on it and cut my allen socket in half with my handy grinder to see if I could get more room. The picture shows this set up and did not work out either. I then used smaller wrenches that fit in the space and tightened as tight as I could get it. Which I don’t believe it moved anymore than what I had already done. I took a couple days to contemplate my situation and asked mechanics I knew what I should do. One of the mechanics is for our school system and is going to the national finals for the best of the mechanics in the nation this year in San Antonio. His response was that he does the feel right method. Well this may work great for him but not for a novice like me. I asked another diesel mechanic and he uses torque wrenches when he can but there are situations that you just have no room. So I just left it as I had it and put everything else back together to the proper specs.

 

Thanks this is a good work indeed

 

why i can't see your photos. would you please upload it to your photobucket or send it thourgh my email. thanks

 

nguyennhatquang you need to first do a posting as a new member here "https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/new-member-area-intro-must-5/"
and introduce yourself. Then you will be given permission to view the photo's and other stuff. By the way what state are you from. There are at least 5 states that have an Indianola including here in Iowa. Put your state after your city and that will help. I did not see your email address either in order to send photo's. Just spend the time to introduce yourself and you will then be given the capability to see them.

Thanks,

 

Congratulations. You are well on your way to becoming a contributor to the core knowledge base.

As far as your difficulty in tightening the above mentioned fastener, there are two methods possible.

1. use a long hex bit with a ball head and work at an angle with a steel bar taped over the edge of the timing cover to protect it

2. you are handy with making tools, so fabricate an extension and adjust the indicated torque by the adjusted length

-- start with a metal bar of some sort
-- weld one nut of the required hex size at one end on one side
-- weld one nut of any size at other end on other side

the center to center distance between the two hex pieces should be, for easiest calculation, 1/2 of the distance from the centre of the torque wrench square drive to the centre of the handle.

If you arrange the torque wrench and fabricated bar at right angles to each other, you would torque to the required torque without any arithmetic adjustment. If you arrange the torque wrench and fabricated bar as an extension, then it would require the appropriate adjustment to account for the increased leverage. These calculations are usually covered in the torque wrench instructions or on the web sites of the better torque wrench manufacturers.

There is also a third method.

Torque is a really a proxy for thread fastener stretch into the elastic zone for a desired clamping force.

There are standard tables and calculations to determine the angle of rotation needed to accomplish a desired clamping force for a given fastener design. That is, thread type, thread pitch, major diameter, fastener material, etc.

The accuracy in decreasing order is:

fastener stretch
angle of rotation
torque specification

 

Thanks Plumsauce. Now I need to refocus on how to paint a car. My first victim will be the the Mercedes I have which is a rust bucket and I can't do much harm to it. Then after that back to the Jaguar and the transmission. Hopefully the transmission will hang in there long enough that I can learn how to paint a car.

 

Painting a car is not difficult but it will give you a sincere appreciation why good paint jobs go for $4k to $8k . . . or more. I discussed a beautiful paint job on an XKE with the owner/painter one time. He did a near perfect job but admitted he spent 6 years doing it.